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2011 Prius MAF Wiring Problem

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by MacArthur, Jul 21, 2022.

  1. MacArthur

    MacArthur Junior Member

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    My 2011 Prius MAF was repaired years ago ( > 5 years). The wiring was altered. It has been working until recently, got a Check-Engine light on and code read "P0101". I had the MAF sensor replaced, the light went off on that day, everything is OK

    The very next morning, Check-Engine light came back on and it read "P0101" again. I sent it to the dealership, they confirmed that the new MAF sensor is good, but there must be loose-connection somewhere in the wiring. When it's hot outside, the car is under the sun for whole day, the light will be gone; when it's cool at night, the light will come back on.

    The Toyota dealership says the only recommendation is to have the whole wiring pulled out and replaced, which costs ~$3000. Went to several garages, they all said this is a hairy situation - it will take lots of time to go through the wiring to figure out where the loose-connection is. Nobody wants to do it.

    Anybody has experience like this before? Any recommendation/suggestion is appreciated!
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    is the car running fine otherwise?

    what wiring was altered and why?

    i would check any connectors for looseness and corrosion
     
  3. MacArthur

    MacArthur Junior Member

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    Yes the car is running fine, with or without the "Check Engine" light. It has been over 90 degrees in the last week. As the car got toasted under the sun, the "Check Engine" light has been gone for almost a week now.

    As to what was altered and why, I have no clue - it was > 5 years ago, I called around but no record could be found. Actually were it not the electric tape on the wire, I won't even remember something happened to it.

    Thanks for the advice. I tend to agree, somewhere there must be a loose connector and/or corrosion. It's just that nobody want to spend time looking for it, even if I want to pay for it... :(
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    A mechanic who genuinely wanted to solve an issue like this would first look in the repair manual to see what the P0101 code means, and look at the eight pages of troubleshooting info there for ways to pin down the problem.

    The code means that while the engine was running, and warmed up, and operating in a load range where the throttle position sensor voltage is from 0.2 to 2 volts, the ECM computed how hard the engine ought to be working based on the driving conditions (a), and also computed how hard the engine seems to be working according to the MAF reading (b), and divided b by a, and got a result below 0.829 or above 1.153. (If the two calculations of engine load perfectly matched, of course, the division result would be 1.0 exactly, so this means that for some reason the two ways of calculating the load on the engine are mismatching by more than 15% or so.) This has to be the case for more than 10 seconds and be noticed on two different trips.

    Then the eight pages of troubleshooting have you look at all of the various reasons why that might be, so you eliminate the ones that don't explain your issue, and you end up knowing which one does, and then you fix that.

    That involves thoroughly checking for vacuum leaks, EGR possibly stuck open, and so on.

    The trouble is, a lot of shops employ people who will look at a description like that and say "Uhh. Yeah. Maybe the next customer needs a battery I can replace." And they'll tell you something like "that would have to be a loose wire that we'd have to fix for $3000" so you will go away, and they can replace somebody's battery.

    Sometimes DIY becomes easier in a situation like that. Not just because it's often cheaper, but flat out because solving the problem is going to require somebody to go through the steps, and maybe the shop guys won't do it.
     
  5. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Searching for a loose wire, or bad wire, etc., is very time consuming. And a royal pain in the butt!
    I've done stuff like that.
    When you get a bill for 10 hours labor to fix a loose wire, you are not happy!

    Have you tried taking it back to the place that modified the wiring???

     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Also, pretending it's a loose wire, to get out of trying to find the real reason the two computed engine loads aren't within 15% of each other, can turn a problem into a real pain in the butt!
     
  7. MacArthur

    MacArthur Junior Member

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    That was long long time ago, I couldn't even remember when/where I had it repaired... :cry:
     
  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Sorry, I must have misread it...

     
  9. MacArthur

    MacArthur Junior Member

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    I want to agree with you - starting from the basic and don't skip steps, it takes time but will get there eventually. It's just that
    1) I'm kind-of lazy :p , trying to pay somebody else to fix it for me, but it seems such a hairy problem that nobody wants to do it
    2) The light has been gone for 2 weeks now. Don't know if this is due to the super-extra-hot weather we're experiencing right now, or if it's just luck. The mileage is around 44~46mpg, very stable, the same as what I have before this incident. It doesn't even make any sense to bring it to a garage now, it will be a waste of time to do diagnostic to a non-existing Check-Engine light.