Hi everyone, I have a 2017 Prius Prime Advanced that wouldn't start. I came home from a 250 mile drive last night, plugged in the charger, and this morning it gave a bunch of errors and wouldn't start or shift into neutral. The errors were: Braking Power Low Visit your dealer Pre-Collision System Malfunction Visit your dealer Shift System Malfunction Apply Parking Brake securely while parking See owners manual Lane departure alert malfunction Visit your dealer Engine Oil Pressure Low Drive Start Control Malfunction Visit your dealer ICS Malfunction visit your dealer Brake Override malfunction visit your dealer Forward camera system unavailable (Also the battery wasn't showing any charge in the traction pack) Gas, oil, and 12v batter are fine. It ran normally yesterday except the bluetooth kept dropping in and out. Any ideas? It was just towed to the dealer. Edit to add: when I tried to start it, the radiator and battery fans turn on.
How did you test the 12 volt battery? Did you load test it if not try load testing the 12 volt battery. Of course if you’ve already told it to the dealer this is a little bit late. It’s going to be a bummer if you towed it to the dealer and that’s all it was. I’ve heard it can be quite expensive for the diagnostics and installation of the battery. My vote would definitely be the 12 V battery if you have not replaced it. It is five years old at this point.
I just hooked a voltmeter to it and got 12.6v. All internal screens and such worked normal and I just replaced the battery in May.
Yeah, the bad 12v battery theory is a strong explainer. But since you already have the car at a dealer, we will have to wait for their assessment. Please keep us updated. It would be the first PP total malfunction I have read about if it is not the 12v battery issue.
Anything is possible. It wasn't like when the old battery died though, so I don't think it is the 12v but you never know. It got plugged in around 6 last night so would have been charging rhe 12v until about midnight. Then it would have to drain by 9am Add: Also put it on a Noco quick charge before I called for a tow.
If you did that, and that did not start the car, then yes, I agree, it could be something more serious, like an ECU malfunction. Would have been nice if you had pulled the code before towing it away, so we can think about more possibilities. Good luck. As I said, please report back to us what you find out from the dealer.
Just a small update: -Dealer saw the issues -While running tests they connected/disconnected various things -Saw some computer related codes -Car is normal now -Running more tests to see if any cause -Traction battery had a full charge. As of now, if they don't identify an issue in the next day, they will just have me pick it up which I am not a fan of. If it wasn't under warranty I would have disconnected the negative wire and a power down may have cleared the issue.
They texted me the printouts of the diagnostics this morning, their communication has been excellent at least. Codes: U011087, U019387, U129387, U0110, U0293, U0110, U0100, U0101, C1A50, B2786, U0103, U115087
Thanks for the update. I have not looked up what the codes mean... but it does look serious. BTW, How many miles on her? Since it s a 2017 model year, it is out of the basic warranty. Do you have an extended warranty on it? If it turns out to be a major breakdown of the system without any precipitating event, it is the first such report I am aware of. Please keep us in the loop. I am curious to find out what caused it and how it was fixed ... and how expensive the repair is. EDIT: I just realized that your dealer reported that the car is running fine without any major repair. Is that mean, they did not find anything wrong with the car even with all the codes?
OK, I looked them up. Here are what the OBD code means: U011087, Lost Communication with Drive Motor Control Module (DMCM) U019387, Lost Communication With Digital Audio Control Module A U129387, Lost Communication between Hybrid Powertrain Control Module and Active Grille Air Shutter Missing Message U0110, Lost Communication with Drive Motor Control Module (DMCM) U0293, Lost Communication With Hybrid Powertrain Control Module U0110, dup U0100, Lost Communication with ECM/PCM 'A. U0101, Lost Communication with TCM. C1A50, Brake System Malfunction B2786, No Response from Steering Lock ECU U0103, Lost Communication with Gear Shift Control (GSC) Module U115087 Lost Communication with Hybrid Powertrain Control Module (Hybrid/EV Battery Local Bus) Missing Message Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/ It sounds like there are major communication errors between ECUs. Maybe some of the wire was damaged by rodents? If the car is normal now without any repair, maybe some loose harness or damaged wire is making intermittent connection error? Just my guess.
It has 64k on the clock and the extended warranty. They were thinking maybe a loose connection as the only explanation but were running more tests. No evidence of rodent damage.
Yep; probably a loose connection @ battery terminals. Did you place the meter leads on the battery post or on the battery connectors? If the dealer hasn't already pulled the battery connectors off, clean, reinstall, re-tighten connectors - then spray with that battery connector sealant. Experience tells me, that's probably what happened. I usually either rebend or replace battery clamp connectors; so I don't run into this issue. Good Luck....
Tested at the clamps which looked tight. I did not ha e the pink stuff on though. What would be odd about that is that the computer started fine.
I agree. If it is a loose connector at the 12v battery terminal, I would think it does not start the other components. When you were driving 250miles a night before this happened, was it raining? Could it be caused by water getting in some of the harnesses that caused temporary short out which is not dry and runs fine?
Oh, well. I guess, it is one of those computer "glitches" that happens inexplicably. I get those often on my computer all the time. Often, rebooting is all I need to fix the problem.
Those look like the same series of message when my 2020 got hit by an EMP and we had to replace the ECU and BMC. It was at the dealer for a month getting everything fixed.
