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Brake Light, ABS Light & Traction Control Light are on

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by danjag, Jan 28, 2019.

  1. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    2012 prius PIP, just happened to us 115 miles from home. The first 150 miles were just fine then the dreaded 3 lights came on while driving. It's been raining in AZ so maybe that is a factor.
    It sounds like checking sensor connections is the first thing to do. If we get home alive, I'll also connect the scan gauge 2, which I bought for the sole reason of turning off the constant reverse beep. I'll try the shorted OBD trick too.

    one more clue: There has been a strange noise that would appear when stopped and the brake pedal wasn't pushed hard enough. Push down hard and it stops making that noise.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You can use the "shorted OBD trick" right where you are, rather than waiting until you (hope you) get home.

    Be sure you use it to get the trouble codes, so you can post them here and get help. There are still some sources out there that only tell you how to clear codes with it, which is silly.
     
  3. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    Made it home without incident.
    Scan gauge 2 showed no codes.
    When I turn the car on, there is a noise that comes from the left front driver side wheel area.
    We called our local non Toyota repair shop and the guy said to call Toyota because he thought that there is a failed part, which Toyota is covering regardless of warranty status. I forget the name of the part he thought had failed. Our appt is on Friday. I'll report back.
     
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  4. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    I'm not sure we got this letter, but I'm hoping this is what it is:
    Amazing extended warranty news !! | PriusChat

    My scangauge II is perhaps too old to show the "C" codes? I was hoping it would show the codes.

    But back to the issue at hand, this is what our repair guy was talking about.
    Old news, but new news to me.

    I just read that my scangauge 2 can have its firmware updated by linear logic, which is under 10 miles away from me. Wish we could do the firmware updates ourselves. Then I saw scangauge 3. Looks cool. However, I don't plan on buying any more cars that use gasoline, and the EVs have self diagnostic messages, range, miles per kWh etc. along with self diagnostic error messages - the likes of which you either take it in to get fixed or get towed. I may pay the $25 upgrade fee, but the scangauge 3 would not see much use in my hands.
     
    #24 mozdzen, Jul 5, 2022
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2022
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    My ScanGauge II won't show brake codes either.

    If you have the brake, ABS, VSC, or ((!)) lights, you can get the codes using the "shorted OBD trick" and counting the light blinks.
     
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  6. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    OK - got it. I was hoping a firmware update would do it.
    Thanks, I'll search for the OBD trick and do that after dinner.
     
  7. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    So it looked like I was on the strip in Vegas.
    The skid icon blinked a 4 5 then a long pause and 4 5 again. 4500?
    The ABS blinked a 4 2 then a long pause and 4 2 again. 4200?
    The (!) icon blinked a 6 9 then a long pause. 6900?

    The next step is to google for those numbers
    Turns out 0420, 0450, 0690 are valid codes
    They are not the codes listed in the extended warranty.

    P0420 is a catalytic converter error
    P0450 - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor/Switch
    P0690 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module which detects that there are some flaws in the ECM/PCM power relay sense circuit.

    I'm hoping those codes don't mean that. Stay tuned, I will find out on Friday!
     
  8. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    The P codes are NOT the correct trouble codes for your 45, 42, and 69 blinking lights. @ChapmanF can help you. I think the correct codes are C1245, C1242, and C1391.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Right, the blink codes are two-digit numbers, and you can't assume they match up in any straightforward way with the five-character DTCs. You just have to look them up in the repair manual, which lists the five-character DTC, a slash, and the two-digit blink code.

    You also have to be careful to look up the blink codes from each light in the right table in the manual; there's a different table for each light, and some of the blink codes appear in more than one of them, so if you are not paying attention to which table you're looking in, you can get the wrong meaning for the code.

    So you have 42 on your ABS light, 45 on your VSC light, and 69 on your ECB light (that's the (!) one).

    42 on the ABS light doesn't correspond to any DTC, it just means "hey, look at the ECB light".

    45 on the VSC light doesn't correspond to any DTC, it just means "hey, look at the ECB light".

    69 on the ECB light is DTC C1391, about a problem holding pressure in the accumulator. There is extended warranty coverage for that if you are under 150k miles and under ten years from first use (which you are, in a 2015).
     
  10. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    Thanks that was helpful. I didn't realize that the blink codes were in the manual. It's a 2012 PiP which was bought in May 2012, but only has ~120 k miles on it. C1391 is the extended warranty code alright. I wonder if they will let me slide being 2 months past the purchase point of 10 yrs. That's not a cheap repair.
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Whoop, I saw the 2015 in your profile, but that was for the Tesla.
     
  12. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Active Member

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    Maybe call in with your VIN. I have a 2011 and recently got a letter saying my warranty is good on the actuator and pump until Nov 30 of this year, no matter the mileage. Fingers crossed, anyone know how to get it to go bad quicker?

    Did you noticed your pump running more often?
     
  13. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    Do you have a link to the code and blink translation table? It's not in my user manual and I've not been able to find it with a google search. Or is it in a service manual that one normally has to buy?

    Thanks,
    Tom

    BTW hats off to the Scan Gauge II people (linear logic).
    I took my scangauge II in for a firmware update, and they ended up replacing the circuit board for me as they said it was quite old and behaving finicky. No charge!
     
  14. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    It was making a funny noise on the left side of the car for some time before the warning light barrage. Not sure about the pump, I didn't notice.
    Tom
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It's in the repair manual. Viewing it online at Toyota has a subscription fee, but it's not very much, and you can let it lapse as long as you want between times when you want to use it. Other sources, like your local public library, may participate in arrangements where you have equivalent access without charge. More info on this wiki page:

    Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat
     
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  16. An2TheTwan

    An2TheTwan Junior Member

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    I havent read through this entire thread but I was experiencing this exact issue and fixed it. I used my scan tool and got abs code like C0210 or something, which was right rear speed sensor. I ended up changing out both the ABS harness and wheel bearing to fix the problem. Let me know if you need help finding harness for speed sensor, it can be a bit tricky.

    Also, consider finding a local mechanic and pay them to do the bearing. It was such a pain in the nice person, especially if you live in a wet/wintery area. The corrosion/rust can make it damn near impossible to take off certain bolts/bearing assembly. I probably ended up paying close to what a mechanic would charge. The silver lining is I know have all the tools/know how if another bearing goes in the future and it would save me a couple hundred bucks
     
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  17. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    Thanks. Chapman says my code was C1391. The service advisor sort of threw cold water on the idea of older cars being covered by these extended warranties, but I'm keeping my hopes up. 111,000 miles after 10 yrs is not that much. One more symptom I just noticed was that the regeneration of the battery is no longer affected by lightly pressing the brake pedal.
     
  18. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Two months over the 10 year limit is too much. Remember the dealer is paid much less by Toyota for both parts and labor than you have to pay. Often there is negotiating room. Some independents will do it for significantly less with new parts purchased at a discount from Toyota.


     
  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If you had read the thread through, you would have seen that mozdzen read the codes and got different ones, so in fact you didn't have this exact issue, you had a different one, which is why doing something different was what fixed it.

    That's why it's so handy that these cars will give trouble codes.

    Now this is super interesting. Is there any chance you could post a scan of this letter, or find a campaign code on it somewhere (might look something like 22TA42, which I just made up) and post that?
     
  20. mozdzen

    mozdzen Active Member

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    So the dealer says too bad, we missed it by 2 months, even though the problem started revealing itself 3 months ago.
    $2800.
    We called Toyota to see if they can at least do something to reduce that cost.
    It sounds like we have to escalate it.
    Not sure if that will do anything.