Oil Filter Housing Damaged

I’ve gotten Amayama parts from both Japan and UAE shipped to me in Hawaii in about 10 days. But…I got a brand new EGR cooler on EBay from an auto repair shop in Bahrain in 4 days, which has to be some kind of record!

 

I finally installed the aluminum filter housing I linked above on the Prius today.

The Toyota mechanics who have been servicing the car previously had the d@mn housing on so tight I had to get out my 1/2 inch impact gun to get it loosened enough to use my 1/2 inch breaker bar on it. While the impact gun was whacking away at the oil filter cap wrench, I was concerned that the aluminum bracket holding the oil filter mount was going to break.

So, the housings fit on both the 2014 Corolla and the 2011 Prius perfectly and take the same OEM size filter element as before.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Bought a 2011 Prius last week, did a oil changed yesterday and faced the super-tight oil filter housing issue. A gorilla must have tightened it with an impact wrench at max torque. I tried everything I could - set the car as high as possible on the jack stands, used the oil cap wrench tool with 27 mm socket and a 24 inch breaker and gave it everything I got - the tabs on the filter cap broke off but the cap didn't budge

I gave up and just filled up with fresh oil. Was at the local Valvoline store (to dispose used oil) and they offered to loosen the filter cap for me but advised to get a spare cap as the one on the car could break if they need to get aggressive with it. So I am thinking metal (aluminum) cap is the way to go. Very happy about your report that it is perfect fit on the 2011 Prius.

Could you please confirm the part numbers?
15620-40030 for the housing, 15643-31050 for the drain plug and 96723-35028 for the o-ring, right?

Did you get genuine Toyota/Lexus parts from that eBay listing you linked - For Toyota Lexus Oil Filter Housing Cap 15620-40030 & Plug Drain 15643-31050 | eBay

Or would it be better to pay the extra $4 for genuine Toyota parts - GENUINE 12-15 SCION IQ OIL FILTER HOUSING CAP HOLDER W/DRAIN PLUG & OIL RING SET | eBay

Lastly, can I change out just the filter without having to drain all the oil? (since I just changed the oil yesterday). If I need to drain all the oil, then I will catch it in a clean jug and reuse it - that Mobil is kinda expensive at $5 a quart to throw away after a couple of days of use.

Thanks

 

Changing just the filter, you'll lose half a cup of oil at most. Consider spin-on conversion too?

 

For $4 more, get the OEM set, but the one I got off eBay looked OEM to me.

As for the oil, you can probably catch and reuse it, but you still had the bit that was in the oil filter housing still in the car when you filled it with clean oil, and that was where the dirty stuff was, theoretically.

Perhaps, change the oil at the next 5k interval, instead of letting it go 10k?

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Is that all that will come out? I never tried it before, but I always thought all the oil would come gushing out.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I had this problem. This is how I solved it: Spin on oil filter conversion. Easy to do and it definitely works.

The 2016+ Toyota 2zr Engine oil filter conversion - Armstrong Family Blog

 

The cool thing about the aluminum filter housing he is considering above, is that you can thread it in all the way, then it just stops, won't go in anymore. But it doesn't get any tighter.

I'm hoping that that means it can't be overtightened by the service people. But I suppose, overtorquing it could theoretically break it, or the mounting plate.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Thanks Mendel. And yes, this probably would've been a good time to convert to a spin-on filter, if I hadn't been too eager and bought half-dozen filter cartridges to get bulk pricing - I am hoping that with the metal filter cap it would all be good from here on.

Some cars have a back flow prevention system or something which only circulates the oil through the filter when the engine is running. With the engine off, you'd only have the whatever oil was there in the filter unit and conduits. Wasn't sure which type the Prius was - good to know for sure.

I emailed the ebay seller to confirm if they are genuine factory parts or after market parts. Will wait a day for a reply. If not, I will go with the one that says genuine Toyota parts.

The previous owner said they changed the oil in June and drove about 600 miles since (CarFax showed the same). But I didn't want to depend on that so changed it - the drained oil looked clean, and whatever little oil that was left in the filter housing (about 0.2 qts), got mixed with the fresh 4qts I put in. So I should be good. The car has 107K miles on it, and I plan to change oil every 7,500 miles anyway. But yeah, this next one, I will do it after 5000 miles.

I have a long list of services planned for the coming weekends - replace spark plugs, replace ATF, replace engine & inverter coolants, replace 12V battery (plan to with the bigger 25 AGM) etc. Already replaced the engine & cabin air filters. Eventually want to attempt bigger tasks like brake fluid flush, cleaning the MAF, throttle body, EGR, intake manifold etc and maybe replace the PCV valve. Trying to get ahead of the oil burning & head gasket issues - wish me luck

 

My oil filter conversion kit finally came yesterday for my wife's 2017 Prius 2. Do I have to remove the front-right tire to do the job? Also, what spin on filter does everyone use, the YZZ03??

 

I definitely would remove right/front wheel, pop out just the three accessible plastic fasteners on the plastic panel at rear of wheel well, then flex it out of the way and restrain with twine or bunny cord.
Torque on the housing hold-down bolts is 19 ft/lbs IIRC, and someone found the “union” torque, believe it’s around 20. Can confirm in a bit. The union required 12 mm Allen key style driver; it’s socket head cap screw.

addendum: just noticed it’s for 2017 model year. My instruction is for 3rd gen, so plastic panel likely will be somewhat different.

 

Mendel, will the wheelwell access described above allow better access for removing and installing a new cooling pump?

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

That's essentially true of the original plastic one too. The O ring is what seals it, and that seals just fine starting as soon as the cap is threaded a few turns in and the O ring is fully in to the barrel. Threading the cap in the rest of the way, it just goes until its flat flange touches the mounting and stops.

But that doesn't ever seem to stop the quick-oil folks from thinking "must ... make ... it ... tighter!".

 

2017 model year is a whole different deal. That’s a Gen IV.

 

The "spin on" adapter will fit all Gen 3 and 4 models except the C. The only exception is many Gen 4's already are supplied with the "spin on" filter from the factory.

 

The eBay seller "multibrandsusa" responded with - "Aftermarket, great quality."
They also sell it on Amazon for $11 -

I ordered from the other seller who claims to supply genuine Toyota factory parts. Will post an update when they arrive. Thanks.

 

Found these specs for the plastic oil filter cap and the metal one.
Posting here for future reference.

Plastic Oil Filter Cap (Part # 15620-37010)


Aluminum Oil Filter Cap (Part # 15620-40030)

 

I have been taking my 2014 Prius to same mechanic for 6 years for regular oil changes. I drive for work and the car has 183,000 miles on it. Today they told me at my oil change that next visit they recommend that I have the oil filter housing replaced because "it is worn out". The estimated $478 for labor and $260 parts. Can the entire housing truly need to be replaced? Can it really be "worn out", and how? After reading this thread and others, it seems that over-torquing the housing cap will require replacing the cap, so does that mean that IF they being the only persons touching my oil filter housing have broken it, does it mean perhaps the threads on the housing body are ruined and thus requiring a replacement? It all seems a sham to be but I am willing to have my mind changed by other reasonable explanations if anyone has any. I am thinking that it is time to switch mechanics. I have tried to support this small local place and so it troubles me. I am a single woman and hope they aren't trying to get away with an unnecessary replacement.

 

That's too much. You are being taken. Only the plastic cap is usually worn from wear. It shouldn't cost much more than $50 at the Toyota dealer

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-engine-oil-filter-housing-156200t010?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtcGFydHMmbD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT10b3lvdGEmbz1wcml1cyZ5PTIwMTQmdD10aHJlZSZlPTEtOGwtbDQtZWxlY3RyaWMtZ2Fz
Engine Oil Filter Housing - Toyota (15620-0T010)

 

Heck I got the conversion to spin-on parts through Amayama, for roughly $100 CDN, all-in.