AC compressor DIY

You seem to be getting in over your head.
Your local library may have Chilton/Haynes manuals for Toyotas and even auto AC systems, which would give you a good primer. Ask your library if you can get online access to Chilton/Haynes! You can fine tune your knowledge and understanding with the factory manual.

Sound reasoning and pragmatic to do.

1) The used donor compressor may have some residual ND-11 oil in it, definitely not enough, and possibly other contaminants. Once all components are installed, spend the money to have the entire system flushed by a competent shop (ideally a Toyota dealer), so you can start from scratch (a clean slate).
2) Carquest's ND-11 vs GENUINE Toyota ND-11. Does Carquest guarantee it is absolutely compatible w/ Toyota's electric compressor?
3) Do you have an AC Manifold gauge set that has only been used on a Toyota/Lexus hybrid? Why? You don't want to contaminate the hybrid AC system w/ conventional PAG refrigerant oil, due to the gauge set in question having been used on a conventional vehicle AC system.

Are you driving unpaved, dirt/gravel roads? Do you foresee yourself driving such roads? Are there many potholes on the roads you drive? Is there a lot of road debris on the roads you drive?

The $15, two business day subscription, will be one of the BEST investments, you will have made. Toyota - New Subscription The DIY instructions don't get better than this. Some users have reported of getting four calendar day access by starting on a Friday (say 5PM; business day one), with access ending sometime on Monday (4:59PM; business day two).

This person found a way to covert CHM files to PDF. If you know of a way to preserve CHM, then do so. He also downloaded the factory manual for the two Toyotas he owned!
Toyota TIS download tips | PriusChat

Correction: Last two questions.
1) Yes, vacuum is required to recharge the system.
2) All questions about charging the AC system and specifications (quantity of ND-11 oil and R134a gas), and a wealth of other info, are in the Toyota factory manual. It behooves you to make the $15 investment, to get the Toyota factory manual for your Prius.

 

After a while you recognize those steps at the top of all the procedures where either the 12 volt battery ground cable, or the HV battery service plug (or, as in this case, both) will be removed for safety. It's like the number of recipes in your cookbook that all start with "chop 1/2 medium onion."

The rear no. 3 floorboard is what has to come out to reach the battery ground cable, but it's held in place by the deck floor box (which is also in the way of the HV service plug), which itself is under the rear no. 2 floorboard. Right? So basically whenever you see a procedure that starts with removing those items, your brain goes straight to "ok, next they're going to tell me to safe off the power, which is the real point here."

-Chap

 

Thanks a lot for your advice.
I am thinking to diy it but I want to know Is it worth to change ac compressor?
Toyota dealer mentioned that the new compressor might broke down again because there might be metal shavings in the ac system.

 

So did you end up running vacuum before the recharge?

 

Well, if you don't evacuate the system before recharging it, then it won't work very well at all- system pressures will be very high (air doesn't condense). Also it likely won't work for very long, as air and moisture will react and form corrosive acidic compounds.

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If I am going to replace the receiver drier won't that help with the moisture? When I did our van AC I did not vac the system and it is still working into the second season. I didn't know if the Prius would be the same? The OP did not state that he ended up doing a vac and sounds like it turned out ok. I know there is some debate on this (some think it's overrated) so I was wondering how it works on a Prius.
My 2005 now has 270k miles so I am doing it on the cheap, $70 used compressor, RockAuto hybrid oil.

Also is it recommended to change the water pump belt while working in there, mine is cracking.

 

It's common knowledge that evacuation is needed before charging an A/C that's been opened, for all the reasons mr_guy_mann explained. But something being common knowledge doesn't mean everyone knows it. You can imitate somebody who didn't know it, but I wouldn't want to take that chance. There are even more ways for moisture and acids to degrade a Prius electric compressor than there are in a conventional mechanical one.

 

If "moisture and acids" from ambient air degrade a Prius compressor then it must already be degraded since the salvage yard left the ports open?

 

It mostly has to do with the oil used in most 134a refrigerant A/C systems. That oil will absorb moisture (which can cause corrosion by itself), and when that moisture and oil are compressed (& heated) to hundreds of psi, that's when acids form. So yes, a used compressor that's been left open isn't a great option, depending on how long it's been exposed, and what the local conditions are. High humidity is the killer. That can be offset some by completely draining the old oil from the compressor before installing. Read the service manual as to how to add new oil so you don't damage the compressor.

Using a strong vacuum pump to empty the system removes the air and boils off any moisture (as long as the ambient temperature is high enough). The dessicate in the receiver drier is designed to remove small amounts of moisture over a long time, basically maintaining the system over years. It would likely get saturated if the system was not evacuated.

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I would probably not accept an A/C compressor from a salvage yard that had not plugged the ports.