Changing engine coolant

Hmm, I didn't think about that - I'm assuming you capped that overflow tank to create a better vacuum with the airlift? What did you used to cap it? Do you know if its possible to create a good vacuum without capping the overflow - the video I linked does not mention this and the vacuum seems to work well (based on the steady gauge shown).

 

We have a variety of rubber vacuum caps in the toolbox. I didn't assume the airlift would block the overflow and just capped it. Maybe it does, but capping definitely worked.

As an aside, you'll need a cone adapter for the inverter tank, threads surprisingly won't seal without it. If this wasn't covered before.

 

Stimp - I'll check for a low cost airlift kit that includes a cone adapter for when I change the inverter coolant - or perhaps I can just use Teflon tape to create a working threaded seal.

Anyone have any comments about the necessity of opening the radiator bleed valve after the vacuum procedure and during the manual activation of the CHRS Pump and when revving the engine - should I keep the bleed valve open during both these procedures?

I'm still struggling to ID the part number for the damaged pipe in the below photo - it is directly opposite to the CHRS drain valve

 

Jreed,
Thanks for your post about crossing the coolant pump relay. It is probably my advanced years and old eyes but I found both the pictures and video so dark that I have trouble identifying which terminals to jump. Even a simple sketch could be helpful.
Second I've never played with relays before and am very cautious jumping into waters where I can't see below the surface.

 

Patrick,
Read your post about running the coolant pump by jumping the relay and also jreeds complete with pictures which I found hard to see. Would you be willing to post a simple diagram showing which terminals on the relay that you should jump to activate the coolant pump ?
Thanks for your time and understanding.

Robbie G.

 

I would like to thank everyone that helped me change this 05 prius ICE coolant, I read everything about changing it, watched about 7 videos on it, armed with the no-spill funnel, it only took me 1 hour total, 15 minutes to drain out the old fluid(1 and 1/2 gallon). Refilled and burped was a breeze with the no spill funnel(EPauto), ran the pump 3 times total. Mine took 1 and 3/5 gallon total. (Previous owner did the last change, no idea how much was actually in it). I had the bleeding valve open but nothing ever came out. I ran the car with coolant temp monitor on and the highest it got up to was 192 when I drove to O'reilleys to dump some transmission fluid. No leaks no drips, I will check again tomorrow morning when the coolant is down and check the reservoir too to make sure I do not need to top off.

 

The reason for my interest in this thread was my purchase of an 08 that that very piece of tubing got broken off in a minor front end collision, anyway, the whole coolant tank was bought off of e-bay for about 50 bucks plus shipping, the plastic parts connected to the bottom were not as easily obtainable. Hope by now you have that issue sorted out.