Hi everyone, I'm newbie with our PriusChat community and I've just do some research and maintenance with my 2010 prius recently Changed and replaced: - at 170k miles: 2 waterpump (my local lexus mechanic did it for me using parts taking out from a totaled cars, used 80k+ miles) - at 192k miles: front struts (Monroe, and i've did it followed the guy from 1Aauto video. - front brake pads - all fluids - Cleaning the HV battery cooling fan and replaced a HV fan filter using this one from Ebay ($16.45): GENUINE TOYOTA 2010 - 06/2013 PRIUS HV BATTERY COOLING AIR INTAKE FILTER SCREEN - Replaced air/carbin filters.. My big concern is the HV battery, i've tried to use OBDII wifi scanner w/ Dr.Prius (free version) to check my battery. Can you please share me how to check and determine if my battery is still good enough and any suggestions on maintenance jobs that i need to do with my 2010 prius gen III, almost 200k miles now (196k ODO)? I really love my Prius and want to keep it for another more years and I really appreciate any help and advise! Happy Friday and Have a nice weekend to You All! Riley
Your screenshot looks good. You can do a battery Life expectancy test with Dr. Prius but it's in paid version IIRC. And you'll probably receive the advice to clean EGR circuit (EGR cooler, EGR pipe and Intake Manifold).
Thank bro Let me look into that, and can I do the cleaning jobs myself? Let me find some how-to videos on it Really appreciate your advises
Yep, you can do it. Mendel will came here (sooner or later ) and in it's signature you'll have all the info you need. Meanwhile take a look at this sticky thread with Nutz About Bolts videos.
There's stuff you can do ahead of time. Start by removing the lower/rear hold-down nut on the EGR cooler. This can be done without removing anything else, and the car is still driveable. It's very difficult to reach, so best done when you're fresh.
The red circled one: If you're on a roll back out the stud behind it (also circled). It requires an E8 Torx socket, and will probably very hard to turn at first, steel stud in the aluminum head. It took me at least 1/2 hour with a compact 1/4" drive Jet ratchet wrench, barely doing one click at a time, to get that thing out. I was sweating too, afraid I was going to round off the tip, end up with it stuck in there. Removing the stud is not mandatory; I finally did it after the job, after taking the nut off. In prep for the next time. My theory is, with the stud off, and the nut and stud at the EGR valve removed as well, you don't need to remove the two rear studs. And:the back gasket will have something to hang on when you pull out the cooler, be less likely to drop.
