Dead 2013 Plug in

if jumpers worked, you need a new 12v battery. is it original?

 

That's definitely a really quick battery failure. The only other possibility would be if somehow your battery terminals are so bad that they're not connected to the battery itself. But that seems awfully unlikely.
But you've demonstrated that with 12v power to the terminals the system works.
Hmm, are you testing at the terminals on the battery? I suppose there's possibly something else at play if you're using the terminals under the hood...

 

With the little troubleshooting you've explained; the battery is the only conclusion we can come to. The jump pack is providing power to close the high voltage relays; which allows the car to power-up. I don't understand why your looking at fuses - attaching a jump pack will magically fix a blow fuse?????
You may also have an issue with your DC to DC converter, not providing enough 12VDC to power your systems. That would cause your 12VDC battery not to recharge during operations. If that's your original battery, it's been there for 10 years. Your actually lucky, most people report only getting 3-5 years out of the 12VDC battery.

Hope this helps.

 

It is simple really. Your 12v is dead, your sons was just low.
Same thing happened to me a couple years ago.
Car started fine, drove 4 miles, turned off, went for a walk, an hour later it was dead.
Jump start, but dead with cables removed.
Battery was 4.4 volts, had to replace.
There is no connection with the hybrid battery

 

Yep sounds like a short in the 12V between cells. They get like that because the separator breaks down after awhile. Mostly they are soft shorts like @bisco described, they seem fine at first but dendritic growth causes a rapid leak. Your 12 volt battery reads like like a hard short.

 

Similar symptoms can be seen if the cable connections to the battery are iffy (just one bit of if on either the + or − side is all it takes). A few strategic voltmeter measurements, from the battery's own lead posts to a body ground, from the cable clamp on the lead post to ground, from the cable beyond the clamp to ground, from the fat white cable in the front fuse box to ground, etc., can reveal if something like that is going on.

The front fuse box is split into two sections joined by a buried 125 amp fuse. One section connects to the battery and includes the jump point, and the other section connects to the DC/DC converter that produces the power when the car is READY.

When the buried fuse is ok, the two sections function together. If the buried fuse isn't ok, you can get weird situations where everything connected to the one section will work only with a good battery or jump connection (even when the car is READY and producing power), while everything connected to the other section only works while the car is READY (regardless of the battery condition or jump connection).

 

12V battery dead short or the 200V to 14V DC-DC converter is not working (to sustain it after jump start)

 

Buy a new 12v battery.

I think I know how to forcefully use the HV battery to startup and drive your plug-in to a safe location. But would rather not tell you how as you probably spend more on replacing your HV battery than just buying the less expensive 12v battery.

I am still unclear how Toyota will replace the HV batteries of the 1st gen Prius Plug-in that are still on the road; since last I heard from the dealer is that Toyota Japan halted the sales of the replacement new HV battery for the 1st gen.

 

Wonder how they could get away with that given California requires a 10 year warranty on PHEV batteries as apart of the emissions warranty.

Given a few cars in service date is as late as 2016 it’s sort of ballsy to stop sale 4 years early, could leave them open for lawsuit if one dies.

Assuming of coarse they don’t have a stockpile sitting somewhere

 

first gen plug in batteries don't need replacing under warranty

plus anything i hear from a dealer, i leave at the dealer on my way out

 

Car makers do not maintain parts production facilities for 10 years after the last vehicle rolls off the line.
Based on statistical data, they generally predict future spare parts requirements in order to maintain existing vehicles and then make a one-time order from their suppliers to store in a central warehouse.

Incidentally, I just bought genuine lower ball joints for my 1996 Toyota Prado which had to come from Japan. That car series ceased sale in 2004.

Of course some manufacturers with a low production run may think this is too expensive (perhaps with solvency issues) and simply offer to buy back the car if still under warranty provided the jurisdiction will permit this. However, this means the cars go back to landfill too early and defeats the zero emissions philosophy of the 10 year warranty.

 

car dark = 12-V battery dead

A jump start will not bring back a totally dead 12-V battery.

 

kevin?

 

I just replaced my 12v yesterday at the dealer. Went to interstate battery shop and he said dealer item only so coughed up $327 at toyota. ow

 

That’s about right, the battery is $200.+