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Heatup Issue

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by usafxai, May 3, 2022.

  1. usafxai

    usafxai Junior Member

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    2011 Prius
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    i-Tech
    Got the over-temperature light today while traveling for around 30 minutes at 120kph with AC on

    This is the first time it has occured,
    but again it's the first time I've traveled with my Prius in the summers

    Coolant level is good, oil level is also good, checked both before beginning journey

    Purchased it in December 2021
    Prius 3rd Gen
    2011, UK Model
    iTech variant
    160k miles odo

    Maintenance done after purchase (@158k miles)
    Oil / filter change
    Engine coolant flushed / new
    Cabin filter new
    Cleaned:
    EGR, intake Manifold, Throttle body, spark plugs were ok, Cat cleaned

    No CEL, no codes

    Is it
    a. Water pump
    b. Temp control valve
    c. Failing head gasket

    TIA IMG_20220503_123420.jpeg IMG_20220503_141033.jpeg IMG_20220503_141017.jpeg
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    is it possible that all the air wasn't evacuated from the coolant? i have read that it can be tricky
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    That's kind of late in the day; how clogged was it?

    Is it stable too, not dropping?
     
  4. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Time to burp the baby or it's gonna start crying!
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    First 96c is normal. 99c is only slightly hotter at 210f and may set off the steady warning where a shutdown is advised. Flashing is trouble.

    Water pump is likely. Normally you can see movement in the reservoir after it warms up. Usually there will be water pump codes.

    The thermostat is possible but not as likely. This could also stop the reservoir flow.

    Failing head gasket or a coolant leak would mean the coolant level in the reservoir would be low. A bad coolant cap could be releasing fluid as well.

    This is a significant threat to the aluminum engine. Don't guess or wait.
     
    #5 rjparker, May 3, 2022
    Last edited: May 3, 2022
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What did you use to check codes?

    I ask because there are things in the car besides the engine that can light the overheat light, and your engine wasn't hot enough to light it. For the engine, that light comes on at 120 ℃ (248 ℉), still above what your gauge is showing. But in your post, I don't see the temperatures of the inverter or motor-generators.

    Those other things typically set codes when they overheat, but those codes are in the power management control ECU, which many generic scan tools will miss.

    (Also, the engine has two temperature sensors, one that's wired to the ECM and one that's wired straight to the combination meter. If the one wired to the CM overheats, a B1503 code is set, but again, that's in the combination meter, where some scan tools will miss it.)

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. usafxai

    usafxai Junior Member

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    No drop in coolant level
    Driven 2000 miles since coolant change

    EGR had a lot of carbon build up

    I just have a normal OBD 3rd party scanner
    Not a high end device
    Used primarily to monitor battery voltage / temperatures & battery fan control

    I've already ordered a Techstream last month but still waiting on that

    Could this be as simple as a Radiator Fan problem?
    Checked the fuses but they're all good

    Actually I'm on vacation & have no access to a proper mechanic / scanner

    When the light first came on, I stopped the vehicle without switching off the engine & opened the hood

    Checked the ICE coolant reservoir, the coolant inside was boiling & had come up to almost top of the reservoir

    Next day checked the coolant level & it is at normal level (the mid joint of the reservoir)

    during further drive whenever the temp would rise up to 98C the overheat light would come ON
     
    #7 usafxai, May 4, 2022
    Last edited by a moderator: May 4, 2022
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  8. usafxai

    usafxai Junior Member

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    update:

    had a talk with the mechanic as he's also on vacation
    he says it is one of early signs of Water Pump failure

    would be replacing that soon only after pulling the codes and making an actual diagnosis

    thanks for the help y'all...
     
  9. Mt Bajwa

    Mt Bajwa New Member

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    May also be a clogged/dirty radiator.. checking the simple stuff first might be a good idea
     
  10. usafxai

    usafxai Junior Member

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    Scanned the car
    B1503 code

    will be taking her to the mechanic tomorrow
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Stevenschu74#?20

    Stevenschu74#?20 Junior Member

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    I also have B1503 error code; it also stated combination meter /Exhaust heat management warning Detected, I started having issue on freeway, it overheated, if you try and start now it runs very rough and shakes, it's a 2012 toyota prius plug in, any ideas on what it could be??
     
  12. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Go to Google and type this in so your results look like image below and start reading...

    Prius 2010-15 related posts apply to your vehicle:

    upload_2023-2-28_19-43-24.png
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wish more of those threads mentioned right up front that B1503 does not refer to the coolant temperature sensor that's screwed into the cylinder head (that one's wired to the ECM), but to the other coolant temperature sensor that screws into the tee fitting in the rubber hose at the back of the engine bay, where the coolant comes back up from the exhaust heat exchanger. That one's wired straight to the combination meter.

    Either one can make the overheat light come on, either directly for this one, or via a message to the combination meter from the ECM for the other one.

    It could mean either that the temperature really is 120 ℃ or above, or that the sensor or wiring have a problem that makes the reading appear weirdly low or high.

    If you could look at the ECM's idea of the coolant temperature, from the other sensor, at around the same time, that might help fill in the picture. I might suspect a wiring problem if this sensor is reading 120 ℃ or above while the cylinder head sensor isn't looking at least kind of hot. On the other hand, if both sensors are reading hot, I'd be a believer.
     
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