Well, I know that our brakes are not being use a lot, really a lot if you know how to handle our cars to maximize all its potential, hence that’s part of my problem. My rotors began to rust to the point to see it through the spokes of the TC rims, and it didn't look very appealing. I replaced them for a set of better looking ones, pictures below. To dismantle the caliper assembly was a real job, the 17mm bolts thread where rusted inside the housing and the original rotors also rusted to the hub; a heat torch, a large hammer and the pneumatic ratchet did the job. I replaced the brakes pad a few months back with silica composition ones and these didn't show much sign of wear at all. The rotors fit perfectly and to reassemble all back was fast and easy. - - - - - - - - - - - - - -All installed and tested, doesn't it look awesome ?
Horacio... can I say.... they are HOT?!! Just curious... you replaced the pads for the better ones or the pads are actually wear down? I'm pretty sure it's the first answer. I also noticed that my brake pads are not used often. So every time after it rains, I will go down this stretch of long down hill on my commute with N and brake. Hopefully that will clean the pads and rotors. So far, works out pretty good. A little interesting "discovery". On Sunday, after a 2 hour drive. I touched the brakes with my hands. The rear brakes are warm to touch and the front brakes are cold! The rear brakes are used more than the front?
Nice!! I usually just brake a bit harder to clean the brakes every now and then. surprisingly, it matches the red calipers and machined polish wheels quite well.
mrbigh, you got way too much time on your hands. First the EBH, then the LED lights and now the rotors. You getin' ready for winter? BTW, they look real sweet. Where you get them?
Hey, where is the gold braded brake line cover? [attachmentid=5448] I'm just jealous. Nice work! It sure looks sharp. B)
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(FL Buckeye @ Oct 23 2006, 04:59 PM) [snapback]336995[/snapback]</div> These came fro SGI MotorSports, located at 1717 E Pacific Coast Hwy, Long Beach CA, phone (562) 449-6393. These replacement rotors are available in silver plating, gold finish and black anodized, single and double drilled, straight and curved sloted. Give them a call for a price quote, mines are factory sponsor products. They range about $100.00 shipped. The jobs I do to my Dual Pwr Toy are by lunch time and do not involve more than 45 minutes with tools on hands in the store back driveway. <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cheap! @ Oct 23 2006, 05:42 PM) [snapback]337028[/snapback]</div> No Gold lining for the brake line, I'm to cheap!!! Yea, early today I went through a puddle of mud and I did not cleaned at time of picture taking, me bad............. B) <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(FireEngineer @ Oct 23 2006, 04:21 PM) [snapback]336963[/snapback]</div> Hope so..... <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ScottY @ Oct 23 2006, 04:45 PM) [snapback]336983[/snapback]</div> I replaced the pads before driving to Madison, Wisconsin, for the 2006 Hybridfest; the originals had 25k and they showed wear signs. The newer ones are of "better" quality and the manufacturer claims to last longer that OEM, nor that I will ever replace again very soon. I had these seating on a shelf for 5 months before installation.
Here I go being all concerned about weight... Is there a significant difference between the weight of the stock rotor and the one that you installed? (Gotta reduce that unsprung weight!)
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(cbustapeck @ Nov 11 2006, 09:53 AM) [snapback]347422[/snapback]</div> It is the same diameter= same size=weight. Actually, is lighter ( minimal weight) if you take in consideration the surface slots and the drilling through.
That actually looks really cool!! Do you notice any additional brakign peformance? I 'play' in the hills (read: winding roads) a lot with the occasional track day and notice that if I am driving hard, I get a little brake fade and was looking into slotted rotors. P.S. Anyone else ever had their brake rotors glow? It looks a little out of place; a Prius sitting in a parking bay in the hills/canyons with glowign red rotors...
Horacio! Sick! Kooollz... Droool.... Questions though how do you measure that your rotors are worn? I've 26k on mine already. Hrm.. getting worried. Is it standard to replace the rotors? How much and how did you replace the calipers? Cost? Complexity of install?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ScottY @ Oct 23 2006, 04:45 PM) [snapback]336983[/snapback]</div> The rear brake *pads* are used more than the front.. The front wheels are still the major contributor in braking though, it's just that the front braking force is provided mainly by the electric regeneration and the pads are not used much.. In my case, instead of replacing my rotor with expensive blingy ones, I just wire brushed everything to get rid of all the existing rust, including the calipers and got a can of Walter Zinc-100 bright zinc cold galvanizing spring and sprayed off the calipers and the rotor hub and edges. The result looks very clean and has completely stopped any rust on the caliper/rotor hub & edges and is very low-key and OEM looking (the silver blends in with the wheels nicely) vs. the contrasting "tuner" look, which I'm not a big fan of.. I did the same with the rear drums- brush off all the loose surface rust, and cold galvanize spray all over...
red caliper is so overdone... next time do gold or something but i like how u got the toyota center cap on instead of the scion one
If you exceed the regen limit, the rear brakes are brought in before the front ones -- makes sense, with all that regenerative counter- torque on the front there's a need to balance the car before even thinking about bringing in the front hydraulics. In Neutral or in a panic-stop situation, front and rear are brought in simultaneously and balancing happens as it would in any other brake system. The amount of "panic response" is gradual -- I've often seen situations in which a brisk but not sudden pedal push brings in some hydraulics, but still gives plenty of regen. It's all based on observed rate. . The "bump kickout" falls entirely to hydraulics, so if you fall victim to that a lot but otherwise try to be careful/gentle you'll start getting some warmth in the fronts anyways. . _H*
so, tires, what kind of tires are you running in those pics??? BTW, i really like the rotor job, looks great!!
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Green Speed @ Nov 13 2006, 01:25 AM) [snapback]348070[/snapback]</div> Mine had about 30k and not signs of real wear, only rust and grime. I'm trying this merchandise and the manufacturer sponsoring these. These came fro SGI MotorSports, located at 1717 E Pacific Coast Hwy, Long Beach CA, phone (562) 449-6393. These replacement rotors are available in silver plating, gold finish and black anodized, single and double drilled, straight and curved sloted. Give them a call for a price quote Besides the installation labor and a replacement for a broken 17mm deep socket for the pneumatic ratchet, the rotors costme " nada". <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rangerdavid @ Nov 13 2006, 08:00 PM) [snapback]348513[/snapback]</div> Look at the pictures above
