So I started an earlier thread about my charging dilemma and felt the need to share my... uhm solution to my problem. I needed to plug into my dryer outlet to charge because I have no other options, so I found this: https://www.parkworld.us/61469-p561.html For GFCI protection I also bought this- I haven't tried it yet, and I'm a little nervous, but it SHOULD be fine, right? I'm gonna start it out in 8A charging mode, to be on the safe side. Any input would be appreciated, thanks
It will let you plug into a 240V receptacle and use up to three 120V devices. Your car will see it as a regular 15A, 120V outlet. Parkworld's site doesn't make that very clear, but there are more details on Amazon if you click the link provided by Parkworld.
I searched online and found out that there are several commercially available 10-30P to 5-15R adaptors out there. My understanding is that they are converting the 240v old dryer outlet and split it into a regular 120v outlet... So this is not the same thing as the non-code 240v adaptor Rob43 use to sell. Using the Primes 120v Charger at 240 Volts, Cost $20 !! The 5-15R that are commercially available adaptors are all providing only 120v, not 240v. Now, my question is from a person with very limited electrical knowledge... Does this type of adaptor adhere to a current electrical code? My understanding is that 10-30P has hot (120v), hot (120v), Neutral, and no Ground. So, what is that round ground pin on the 5-15R connected to? Does the EVSE work without ground? Even if does, is it safe to use without proper ground?
Your correct Sal, ground pin is dead - not connected. As far as safety is concerned, it's as safe as any two pronged appliance you use. The OEM charger has a safety breaker in that brick portion. This is by no means to electrical code. This is a "cheater plug", used in construction to power their 110VAC tools. The packaging probably states for temporary use only. I've seen safer cheater plugs that has a separate yellow/green ground wire, enabling you to connect to a 110VAC ground or ground stake. Of course I'm assuming that the facility was wired to code, and actually has a ground wired inside the outlet. You can use a $2 outlet checker, from any hardware store to double-check. @Optoprius Prime; you don't have to start at 8A; your plugged into a 30A circuit and the car is limited to draw 12A max while charging. Again, DO NOT USE the dryer while your car is charging. You may want to stick a cardboard sign on your dryer, as a reminder. Put the car on a scheduled charge, so you don't have to go outside to check it. Make sure the connectors stay dry. Maybe put a couple of hefty nails into the wall and hang the wires; so there's a low point where water may drip off, rather than run down into the connectors. Hope this helps.....
https://www.neobits.com/voltec_04_00102_3_foot_12_3_3_way_blue_yellow_gfci_p10915178.html?atc=gbs Actually, my original post didn't include the proper link - FOR GFCI PROTECTION I'm using This https://www.neobits.com/voltec_04_00102_3_foot_12_3_3_way_blue_yellow_gfci_p10915178.html?atc=gbs So the chain will go li in this order: Dryer outlet> Parkworld Splitter Adapter> Voltech GFCI> PP charger> Vehicle Hopefully no issues, and the GFCI should stop any potential dangers. Of course, I will carefully observe for a few hours to see if anything gets really hot or trips.
No i will not be using the dryer or any other appliance while charging I have this... https://www.neobits.com/voltec_04_00102_3_foot_12_3_3_way_blue_yellow_gfci_p10915178.html?atc=gbs that i'm also going to use as a precaution.
Sorry, but you'll still only get 120V to your EVSE cable because that's all the Parkworld device puts out..
The basic problem is that while the US version of the Prime EVSE works fine with 240V, the plug on it is a NEMA 5-15, which by the code standards, is strictly 120V. So no code compliant adapter can get 240V to the EVSE. And you can't just cut off the plug and put a plug designed for 240V on it, since there is a temperature sensor in the plug, and the EVSE will fault if it doesn't see the sensor. This is why the non-code compliant "cheater" adapters which have a 240V plug on one end and a 5-15 receptacle on the other end recommend that the EVSE be permanently plugged into the cheater adapter, so noone will mistakenly plug a 120V device into the cheater.
Easily remedied by zip ties and/or duct tape; so the cheater plug becomes part of the EVSE power cord. I'm not a glue person; and if you screw-up - glue is messy and much more difficult to fix.
Thanks for the reply Perfectly fine if i only get level one charging. My main objective was just to be able to SAFELY charge off of the dryer outlet. So i tried first the additional GFCI adapter and it kept tripping so I just took it out and now the chain is: Dryer outlet> Parkworld Splitter Adapter> PP charger> Vehicle And it works just fine, been going once a day for the last 2 weeks, without any issues, and not a single interruption in charging. I'm not sensing any danger or damage or melted pieces. $40 adapter and problem solved!! and the kid at Lowe's laughed at me like i didn't know what i was talking about and said i'd "burn my house down i f such an adapter existed"! i should bring it back and show him and talk to his manager!! Those cheater adapter for level; 2 charging WERE considered, But i rent and it's a little too risky. One thing i noticed about 8A charging, is that you get a little more of a charge than at 12A
Thanks for the reply. Perfectly fine if i only get level one charging. My main objective was just to be able to SAFELY charge off of the dryer outlet and it's working very well, 2 weeks without a single charge interruption. I considered the welding adapter, but i rent where i live, and that seems a little risky,
Actually, you don't get any more at 8A. But, since it takes longer to charge at 8A, the fans run longer which uses more electricity. The battery will still only charge to the limit imposed by Toyota's programmers which is about 83-84% 8A at 120V is the least efficient (runs fans for about 6-1/2 hours), 12A at 120V is better (runs fans for about 5 hours), 12A at 240V is better yet (runs fans about 2-1/2 hours) and 16A at 240V is the most efficient because it only runs the fans for about 1:50 to 2 hours. All of those will put your battery at the max allowed by Toyota. The ones that are fastest are also the most energy efficient. The losses are not all that significant per event, but if your electricity is expensive, they will add up over time.
Fans run when the Traction Pack is hot for sure. Not so sure fans always run when Pack is cold. Still pretty cold in CT at night. It's finally breaking into the ( 40's F ) next week at night. It dropped to ( 31 F ) this morning here. What ever works for you and that looks like the 8Amp setting is doing the trick. And if it appears to you that 8Amps gives you better results than the 12Amps setting did, you might want to test a few more times to see if you can confirm the difference. The difference is probably pretty small if there is one, but it would be good for you to know what it is. Especially if you decide to change that chain of electrical connectors in the future.
It's not hard to test. But it will take three charging sessions and an OBD II dongle with any of the many phone apps that show actual state of charge. You'll find that the SOC when car finishes charging will be the same at any amperage.
Heres a youtube from the car care nut about the Prime battery and charger systems. note the reference to the CCID of the EVSE near the middle of the video. It's always nice to learn something new every once in a while.
