Clamp removal- air intake

You'll probably get better purchase on it with a 10 mm hex socket.

It might just break anyway if it's that rusty. But there probably won't be a problem putting that snorkel back on unclamped and driving as far as the dealer for a new clamp.

 

Yes. You'll see it has a hex head, that just happens to also have Phillips screwdriver slotting in it.

 

Did you loosen the bolt that goes through the center of the pulley?

That has to be loosened also (and it can be a bear).

The one you took out is only an aid for setting the proper tension of the new belt. You start with it loose, put the new belt on, then gently tighten that long bolt until the belt tension measures at the spec in the manual. Then you tighten the pulley center bolt to its specified torque.

 

iirc, because I may have this mixed up with another car:

Step one is loosen the center bolt on the pulley to remove the clamping force.
The tension adjusting bolt passes through that (unthreaded) hole in the photo and then threads into a slide mechanism. You turn the bolt clockwise and it pulls the pulley toward the front of the car, tightening the belt. You turn the bolt counterclockwise and the tension on the belt will pull the slide mechanism toward the back of the car, loosening the belt. Sounds like the slide mechanism is seized. perhaps spray some wd40 into the area in the hole, insert the bolt, thread it most of the way in and use some mechanical agitation (ie: a hammer or similar device) to thump the bolt to try to push the slide mechanism.

 

In your photo, am I seeing the center bolt through that idler pulley? Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me. I can see that the long bolt for tension adjustment is removed.

Are you thinking of 'agitating' via the center bolt, or via the long adjusting bolt? I think you might have success with either approach. The long bolt might allow easier access, you'd just bop down on its head from the top.

This sounds like the kind of thing I'd pull out the air hammer for. Dialed down, or just squeezing the trigger gently. It's really not how hard the bops, but how many. Air hammer can deliver a couple thousand in a minute's time; I can't do that with a hammer.

 

I still think I would put the long bolt back in, just for several threads, and use it as a thing to bang on.

If not with an air hammer, then long and exhaustingly with a regular hammer.

Or call in a favor from a friend with an air hammer.

Or buy a new engine mount bracket and idler pulley and use the old stuck-together ones as a centerpiece.

Seriously, if the idler pulley is that old, its bearing might be a week away from getting noisy, if it hasn't already.

 

Some repair manual info on drive belt replacement:

 

Commit to replacing whatever is needed. Remove the tensioner pulley center bolt completely. Pry, tap, hammer, work it, - just get the pulley off. Remove the bracket (and water pump pulley) as needed. If possible, I like to work on something rusted up "out in the open" - on the bench.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Note that that procedure contains an error in both the removal step 3 and install step 2. The parts labeling is transposed in each case. The part labeled 'A' should be 'B' and vice versa. The illustration below shows the correct labeling.




Of course, it will eventually be worked out*, but if you have a procedure, you should be able to rely on it.


* more quickly for the experienced; more slowly for those that rely on correct procedures

 

.

 

Notice that what you've written here matches the drawing the way dolj corrected it in #16, and not the way it is shown in the manual.