2011 Prius - C1391: Abnormal Leak of ACC PRESS

There is little doubt you need the brake actuator. C1391 Is one of the codes. Obviously a final diagnosis should be made, most likely the dealer will say change it. I would find an independent hybrid shop to install and test. Probably half to two thirds the price. Less if you can do it. I would change both parts.

 

In a Gen 3, they've got the works split up into two different assemblies:



The one on top is also called the actuator, and the one on the bottom can be called (as shown) the accumulator.

The one on the bottom pumps up and holds the pressure, but the leak that is bleeding it out can be in either one. (There are more opportunities in the actuator, but that's not a slam dunk.)

In a way, with your two-second pump cycle time you have an advantage: with a leak that fast, you can probably hear it.

If you get a mechanic's stethoscope and touch it to each of those two items, during those two seconds between pump runs, one of them is probably making a heck of a hissing sound.

That'll be the one.

 

I have the same problem (C1391) on my 2010. I've done the paperclip reset thing and it clears the HUD warnings and the breaks work and the battery charges when brakes are applied, but only for about twenty miles. The car is running fine, but not sure how safe it is to keep doing that reset thing. I'm sure I'll need to replace the actuator and/or accumulator and I know that will cost a good bit.

 

The car isn't fine, and by resetting the codes telling you it isn't, you're not fixing it. The real questions remaining are which of the components need replacement (or both), and who will be doing the work, which will influence the cost.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I realize it isn't fine, but just wanted to know if I was in danger driving it like that. I have a second vehicle (truck that gets <20 mpg so I hate driving it ... only for truck stuff). I made a video of the noises it makes after I turn it off and a brief description. I posted it on YouTube and will add a link once it finishes processing. I have the money for the repairs it is just that I'm a cheapskate

 

Here is a link to the engine sound in case it helps isolate the issue. I see I can't post a link so copy/paste the below. Thanks

 

There's no particular need to further isolate the issue. That's the sound of your brake accumulator pump having to repeatedly run because the brake pressure won't hold, which is what the C1391 already was telling you. Having to run every 7 or 8 seconds like that with nobody using the brakes is bad. When your brakes work right, the pressure can hold up for hours if the brakes aren't being used.

As you've noticed, the brakes still kinda "work" with you clearing the trouble codes, and that'll keep being true until it isn't, and that'll be a different kettle of fish.

Perhaps the largest potential cost involved is that if the brakes end up surprising you in the wrong way, the other guy's personal injury lawyer will eat you alive if it comes out you've been repeatedly clearing your brake codes.

 

The damage to fix the brake booster is usually $2500 at a dealer.

Maybe half if you find somebody who will install used parts. Which is not advised because of issues getting the right parts and the extensive labor to change, calibrate and bleed them.

If you have to pay to do it twice because of a bad used part you could have bought new. New is the thing to do when you are talking brake by wire master cylinders.

You are already in the failsafe reduced braking mode. Its dangerous. If you are considering selling it, now would be a good time. The low coolants are worrisome as well.

 

There is a class action lawsuit. In the meantime, I am awaiting a call back from Toyota USA customer service and I filed a complaint at nhtsa.gov and encourage everyone else to do the same. This is dangerous

 

how is the lawsuit progressing?

 

What is your car doing exactly?

You're not, I trust, continually resetting diagnostic reports to keep driving it the way budgrantrules was?

 

Thx. I submitted an NHTSA report, too. This just happened to me today while I was driving on the freeway with my son. The brakes functioned but easily at only half their earlier power. Fortunately we did not need to stop quickly. It's an insanely expensive repair. I'd do it myself except the flushing/bleeding needs special scan tools I don't have. Luckily I do have an aftermarket Toyota mech nearby.

 

i don't understand what nhtsa is waiting for

 

The class action lawsuit is over. For quite sometime. They agreed to replace units under their preexisting customer service program. And the preexisting timeframes.

I am sure the lawyers had a nice payday but the end users can only qualify if their car is less than 150k miles and it is less than ten years from first use. The unlimited miles part has expired.

The prices of some of the dealer only parts have come down slightly and more scan tools can do the special bleeding procedures. The reduced pricing is not automatic, it requires shopping around and some versions are either backordered or in stock dealers may not ship them to other dealers.

Used parts are a problem due to different versions in the same year due to tire size, Prius model (v or hatchback) and salvage seller mistakes. High labor hours make it a job you don't want to pay a mechanic to do twice. Plus Toyota has superseded some of the obviously flawed original parts.

 

Does that mean 4th-generation Prii will not have the same issue?

 

There are a lot of differences introduced in the Gen 4 brake system, which you can read about by following the posts in the discussion over here.

I don't know that we have a lot of experience yet with Gen 4s above 300k miles, but there are enough differences in the system that the news could turn out to be good.