Need ABS actuator, but is it safe to drive now?

The C1241 is the odd code in that picture. It tells you the voltage arriving at the brake ECU was out of spec (in principle, the code could be posted for a voltage too low or too high; in practice, "too high" isn't usually the problem).

That is not necessarily the fault of the 12 volt battery. The code is about the voltage that arrives at the brake ECU under the dash, so the connections, wiring, and fuses on that path could also be suspects. On the other hand, as a quick first thing to check for a C1241, you won't go wrong checking the condition of your 12 volt battery, and giving it a good full charge or replacement if indicated.

If you're interested in possibly saving the actuator money, if you find and resolve whatever problem led to the low-voltage C1241 code, you might clear the codes and see if the C1256/C1391 come back. You can get those codes if the brake system's pump is not able to keep up with the pressurized-fluid demand. Normally, that suggests an internal leak, but if the pump is running like a dying windup toy because of a power supply issue, that could also be a reason for not keeping up.

So if you resolve an electrical issue and then the pressure issues don't come back, you may have saved some time and money. If they do come back, you know what to do then.

Do you have other symptoms of pressure leakage? Do you notice the pump running often?

Some people post about continuing to drive their cars even with the pump cycling every few seconds with no use of the brake! I know I would change mine long, long before that point, but some people have to live on the edge.

 

Welcome to PriusChat!!

Quite likely, but drive slowly and prepare to stop accordingly.

Be sure to do start a thread for the DIY ABS actuator experience.

FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.

 

Definitely consistent with the C1256/C1391 codes.

You might still see whether you find a C1241 smoking gun and things improve when you fix it. But otherwise, there'll be a brake actuator job in your future.

 

I'd venture to postulate that the pump running very frequently will be draining on the battery and could possibly ruin it if left long enough. So eventually having to replace the $235 12 v battery is an additional cost to factor into your equation. At least have a 12 V battery charger on hand (and use it) to mitigate that eventuality.

 

I've been driving on this edge for over a year all my lights traction control and everything are lit up the traction control still comes on in the rain the lines light up in the orange indicating it's slipping or traction control is supposed to be working i see that in the snow and rain but the ABS VSC break and check engine light which is not really related to the brake business mine is low pressure in the rear i've been driving like this for over a year and i have full pedal i just don't have ABS as i can smoke all four wheel wells pretty easily so it's like my old timey corolla with front disc rear drum brakes i guess and i continue to drive every day and it works just fine i don't know if my pump is cycling a whole lot or not because i don't know what it's supposed to sound like when it's new or correct because it's been doing this since i got the car well actually the day after i got the car i tried to replace the pump and the reservoir or whatever on another 05 and couldn't get the lights out but it turns out the hybrid battery was bad in that car and that could have been thwarting that restart.

 

So wait a minute this extra running of the pump is going to drain the 12 volt while i'm confused usually when i hear this running going on i'm trying to start the car so i'm trying to get ready it immediately ready and then i have 13 or 14 volts sitting on the battery immediately and the brake pump is barely even started then when i shut the car off it seems to run for oh i don't know 45 seconds while it shuts down if you will i guess i don't hear any hissing anywhere on this particular 09 the code is for low pressure in the left rear if i'm not mistaken yes it's the left rear not the right and i'm with a mechanic stethoscope i hear no hissing no leaking down noises i've never bled these brakes i've replaced the front i want to do the back but i was waiting until i found out more about these type of codes for the ABS there is a guy on eBay who claims he can overhaul the systems again i have two of them here paid for one and he sent me two to try out and they came clean sealed with the special little fittings on all the ports he talked to me over the phone and told me about his rig and how basically all this works from his perspective and i told him i'd get to it then i put one in the black car couldn't get it to restart and clear but it turns out that car had a bad green tech battery in it

 

Reading that post drained my battery.

 

I think I'd be reluctant, for exactly that reason. There are plenty of threads where it's been done, though.

 

A new ABS unit for the Gen 2 can be had (discounted) at online Toyota dealers for around $1,150 so that would influence my decision on new vs secondhand. Given that the newest secondhand ones are now 13 years old, I'd be reluctant to spend the time and effort installing a secondhand one. Prices I have seen quoted for used units have been in the $800 ballpark and this is not cheap enough of a discount In my opinion. Even if it was dirt cheap I still wouldn't use a used one because my MO is once and done. I like working on my car, but not enough to do the same job over and over.