Hei there guys hope someone can lead a light on this topic since i still didn't find the right topic for what i am asking so in short i have this issue with my 2011 Prius 12v battery some of the days had really to wait until i turned it on so i wanted to see what the price of a new battery and i was shocked with the price of it i live in Norway so here it was costing 400$. I was looking too for aftermarket ones but didn't have many options in Europe or in Norway just semi AGM not fully, Then i figured out maybe i can find one from a salvage yard and today i bought one that was very cheap 25$ (GS Yuasa AGM 45h,) wich costs 410$ new i tested it at the junkyard it was reading 12,2volts wich means its good and then i bought a new recharger wich has 1.5amps and i have been charging the battery since 5-6 hrs ago.. So my question is whats the highest voltage i can charge my battery or for how many hours can i charge? Now the battery is reading 13,1volts and still going up! (On battery it reads don't re charge it under 10 hrs) on label Thanks for ur help.
You need to look at the open-circuit voltage, with the charger disconnected and no current through the battery, so that you don't add (when charging) or subtract (when discharging) the voltage drop across the internal resistance of the battery (Ohm's law, V = RI). Get a cheap DMM and measure the open-circuit voltage. Here is the open-circuit voltage vs. state of charge (SOC): Typical open-circuit voltage (OCV) of a 12-V lead–acid battery
First, there's two components to a battery - voltage and amperage output. A battery from a wreaked car may have voltage, but not enough amperage to start you car. That is where a load tester is used - to ensure you have current to operate the car in subzero temperatures. That 1.5A battery charger, is that an automotive smart battery charger or a manual (dumb) battery charger? A full battery is anywhere between 12.75 - 13.5 volts, disconnected from everything. I'm assuming you have a halfway decent, fully calibrated DVM. If you use your DVM on that battery charger, it should be outputting around 14VDC - 14.5VDC. If your auto parts store offers free testing; take your battery there to get tested - both voltage and current output levels. This will give you an idea of how long that battery will last. Hope this helps.
Nope, the open-circuit voltage for a full battery is 12.6 V (regular (flooded) type), 12.8 V (AGM type), or 12.85 V (sealed-gel type). See the post above.
Hei there guys i charged the battery for around 12hrs, The charger is a smart charger wich regulates how much and when is full(i think) i charged it up to 14.2v and now i took it off from the charger after three hours the battery was reading 12.66volts( i guess it's normal?)
From the voltage, it seems to be overcharged. I wouldn't use the trickle-charger on a regular basis. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AUXILIARY BATTERY CONSTRUCTION (a) A European Norm (EN) battery for the auxiliary battery is provided and is installed on the engine compartment. In addition, an auxiliary battery temperature sensor (thermometer assembly) is provided, which detects the temperature around the auxiliary battery. (b) A battery sensor (battery state sensor assembly) is mounted on the auxiliary battery. (c) The battery characteristic (battery internal resistance) of taking in current for charging varies in accordance with battery electrolyte temperature. If the battery electrolyte temperature is too low or too high, the battery will degrade more quickly, resulting in premature failure. CAUTION: There is no size listing for the EN battery similar to existing auxiliary battery. When replacing the auxiliary battery, use an auxiliary battery that is the same size as the auxiliary battery installed on the vehicle and that has a battery capacity that is equal to or greater than 20-HR [sic, meant 45 Ah at 20-hour rate (C/20 discharge)]. SPECIFICATION Auxiliary Battery ITEM: SPECIFICATION Auxiliary-Battery Type: LN1 20-Hour-Rate Capacity: 45 Ah Cold-Cranking Ampere (CCA)*: 295 A Ventilation Type: Each Cell Vented *: Value indicates low-temperature starting performance. BATTERY SENSOR CONSTRUCTION (a) The battery sensor (battery state sensor assembly) installed to the negative (−) auxiliary battery terminal calculates the current, voltage, battery temperature, SOC (battery charging percentage), SOH (battery degradation percentage), SOF (starting performance) and self-diagnosis result and sends these signals to the hybrid vehicle control ECU via LIN communication. (b) To detect the current, a shunt resistor installed inside the battery sensor (battery state sensor assembly) is used to convert and calculate the voltage generated in the shunt resistor due to the battery charge and discharge current. (c) The battery temperature is calculated from the resistance value of the thermistor built in the battery sensor (battery state sensor assembly). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With a trickle-charger, you are overriding the battery-temperature sensor and battery-state sensor and potentially reducing the battery life by overcharging the auxiliary (12-V) battery. Use it only when you really need it.
There are some UB numbers that have been used in Prius 2 the universal battery is like you buy on eBay they're black and they come in AGM in the right CCA and all that I think somebody here is used one a couple of times I've used them in other applications sometimes you can get them a lot cheaper then it's automotive counterpart and giving where it is in the Prius inside all the other stuff may not be important
