P0300, 0301, 0302, etc.

welcome!
i would clean the entire egr circuit, then replace the injectors if that doesn't help. or you could try running some injector cleaner, i think there are threads here.

 

firstly, you ve all the answers and solutions in this forum.
Other than pipe and injectors, which were very dirty, that refers intake's clogged, the car struggles breath in, as well as breathing out, EGR.
My understanding is that I'd clean intake, check coils & plugs (clean or replace). While Intake out,change PCV valve and intake gasket and install oil catch can. After this, things should be smoother, then next step is cleaning EGR unit, which is thougher than first.
And I'd do an early oil change to keep it in control. Videos available in this forum how to do those, if you can change oil yourself, you are qualified to do all.
After all done, if still leaking coolant, may do leak-down test

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

If you are in fact chasing a blown head gasket coils cleaning and all the like I'll probably going to make a little or no difference and coils and how many sets are you going to buy the issue was on the refill of the coolant when you noticed it was down how much was gone before you refilled it we don't care about after that was the first indicator it gulped some coolant

 

You should do a full EGR cleaning, but: that isn’t go to turn back the clock. It’s best done about 98k sooner.

Leak down test and/or boroscope inspection will see where you’re at with head gasket.

first link in my signature has EGR cleaning info.

 

i have never touched mine, and it is at the correct level

 

I am no expert but newbie with similar symptoms. At 218k on a 2010 with start up knocks I cleaned egr and intake manifold with Purple Power found at Tractor Supply (PP not good on aluminum or rubber gaskets). Replaced plugs and PCV (why not it costs so little). Helped but did not solve the problem. Leak down test, coolant drop and continued knocking has convinced me that I have a slow coolant leak between Cyl #1 and #2. I am gathering supplies and tools to replace HG. I have spent weekend watching hours of HG replacement videos.
I have not seen anyone recommend replacing timing chain tensioner. The timing chain tensioner gasket yes but not the tensioner itself. Do you have link to GasketMasters instructional videos? I have spent hours watching his Baltimore unedited video. Helpful but a lot of time spent to pick up tips. Best resources I have found to date are PriusChat, videos made by GasketMasters, Riviera Auto, SaneAuto, Lets Drift Media.

 

The "cylinder head" link in my signature has some Repair Manual excerpts, one of which I believe has the head trueness specification if I'm not mistaken. I'll take a look, try to be more specific.

One thing: YouTuber "The Car Care Nut", a Toyota master mechanic, cautions against machining the head (or block), saying it can change the distance between crank and cam shafts sufficiently to throw the timing off. Not sure if he's a bit of an alarmist, not really sure. Depends on the machining technique and amount shaved off??

Addendum: Repair Manual is saying if it's out of spec, to replace, fwiw:

 

Just speculation: cylinder to block tolerance spec is .05 mm,(aka 1/20th mm). If the measured variation was slightly more than that, say 0.1 mm (aka 1/10th mm), It seems to me if a machine shop could manage to machine off that amount it would not impact timing; it's so infinitesimal. One technique I've seen is they place a large sheet of fine sand paper on a plane surface, invert the head on it, and swirl it around, till all low spots are gone.

 

This one's pretty good:

Never done any of this, lol.

 

Dinhad a crack in the crown of no2 the meccie thought it did not go through . It blew out in. 14 miles enroute home w new gasket installed . No due diligence . Partially my fault I should have stopped that job dead in tracks.

 

Hard to say. They look quite uniform. Which is which?

 

I did have a bent rod, but I found out only after I'd taken the head off. Replacing it is a little tedious but not too bad. One would need to take off the stiffening crankcase assembly from underneath the vehicle to get to the connecting rod caps. The only extra tools you'll need are a piston ring compressor (free rental from auto parts stores) and a 12-point 10 mm shallow well socket.

Once the head was off I checked the flatness with a straightedge, and since it was well within spec I didn't bother to get it inspected for cracks—my reasoning being that if it never overheated enough to warp it out of spec, there wouldn't be any cracks.

By the way, I had smooth starts too, even with that bent rod.