2006 prius shows code p3000 I need to get rid of it.

So basically if you put a new 12v battery and HV battery in the car, it should work? If you still like the car, that probably would be the best thing to do and get it running for another few years.

If you insist on selling it, sell it as is without the new 12v battery

 

That and fix the water leak.

 

Please send me a PM or "start a conversation", as I'm a willing buyer with the ability to travel.

It does look like one of the hv battery modules has lost a 'cell'.

If you only have a DTC P3000, you could check the HV battery ecu for corrosion in the connector/socket, and then rule that out.

 

The corroded connector might be the only issue.
Toyota Prius P3000: Check This Before Replacing Your HV Battery | Torque News

 

Used cars are selling way higher right now... It's worth to get this fixed up. I'm 90 minutes north of Portland and could help you out with a replacement hybrid pack and 12v... Also that corrosion in that plug can throw an error code for hybrid cooling fan voltage issues, so you want to bypass that plug and crimp those wires together directly.

 

Cleaning with contact cleaner should do the trick. I doubt a parts store will have this connector. A Toyota dealer parts dept. will likely be able to order it.

 

It'll just corrode again if you clean it. And it's really, really dumb and wasteful for Toyota to use a ten pin plug to connect 4 wires. Just cut the plug out and connect the 4 wires with butt connectors. This part of the wiring harness never needs to be unplugged anyways.

 

Yes..

 

Have you inspected the HV battery ECU, and voltage sense harness (wire frame #2) for corrosion?

Start by cleaning the HV battery ECU (both the socket, and plug from wire frame #2), if bad, take off the cover and inspect the PCB.

If that doesn't fix it, then move on to replacing : WIRE, FRAME, NO. 2 Part Number: 82165-47040 ($60) - when replacing, the torque for the nuts is 48 inch / lbs, which isn't very much at all. If you're going in there, you might as well replace that failing module as well.

Upon inspection of the HV battery ECU, you might find corrosion, and missing or burnt pins. These images have all three present :











If your ECU and harness look good, then take a peak inside the ECU and look for internal corrosion or whiskers :

I may still be interested if it comes to that, just let me know.

 

It would be helpful to have the three-digit INF code from the P3000.

I'm also not sure why you have reported no codes from the battery ECU. If those can be retrieved, they'll add useful detail to the story.

 

I do not know of any app based scantool that can pull INF codes. I also don't know if there is any app that will get codes and data from the HV battery ecu.

The usual choice for budget minded DIY is to get a mini VCI cable with a bootleg copy of Toyota techstream (amazon or ebay) and install it on an old windows laptop.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Doesn't the "Max Charge" of 4.02 tell that the battery is really very weak? Also, I see the "Voltage Diff" for 1.5 volts is huge as per the Dr. Prius app - ideally, the difference should it should be less than 0.30 volts. I am surprised that the battery temperature is still in the 40's. I am in Dallas Texas area and my starting temperature for the battery in the morning is in the 80's.

Can anyone comment on the "Max Charge" of 4.02 please

I too got a P3000 code in Dr. Prius app. After clearing the red triangle by removing the negative of the auxillary 12v batter, my prius runs if the temperature of the battery is under 110 F - I sometimes have seen 120F when the red triangle appears. My "Max Charge" starts with about 30.25 in the morning and gradually decreases.

I did not not have water getting in and dont see corrosion near the auxillary battery. I dont want to open 220V hybrid battery without good protective gears.

Any comments appreciated.