Transmission leak or oil or? Photos... Please help

Are you planning on opening the drain plug or fill plug? The drain will drain it or the remaining out.... (Be careful. Advice is to open the fill bolt first. Why? Because if you drain and then the fill bolt is stuck you're kind of stuck, ie getting a tow).

That last pic with the fluid droplets does not look close to transmission fluid. It could be the way the picture was taken. What color is it?

EDIT- I'm thinking it's coolant....

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

Sounds good no salvage pretty low miles. Ran a long time after purchase so your just very very unlucky.

There was another FIPG (form in place gasket) goop that failed on a G2 trans if my pretty poor memory serves. Just had a leak in the trans seam just like yours. Very uncommon. Do not remember the final outcome.

Here's what i would do.

First i would get a 1/2 breaker bar with a pipe over its end to increase torque. See if you can tighten the bolts in that area. See if you can tighten it up a little. Torque wrench would help I think its around 50 ft lbs.

Then check the trans fluid level. The fill plug is on really really tight so make sure you get that off first. Get the car level open the fill plug stick your little finger in there and see if you can determine how low it is in that hole. Hopefully you can feel it. If you cant feel it maybe very low.
.
Take the dump bolt off and see how much metal is on the magnet.

Fill it back up to the top of the fill hole bolt it back up and then watch how much drips out over time by keeping a fresh big piece of cardboard under the trans.

If you can keep it topped off it will last a long long time as long as the weeping does not increase. Years maybe. These are very very tough transmissions.

Drive it man.

Good luck.

 

Any update having the same issue after I put a new rebuild engine took it to the shop and they put a new seal but not sure what seal. It’s still leaking and they were trying to get me to get a new transmission

 

No way; tell the shop that did the work - they need to step up!!! If you had a bad transmission seal - that clutch assembly would have been "wet" when they separated the engine from the transmission - they would've/should've told you that needed repair or NO warranty. That's the way we used to do it, in my old shop. If the customer refused - we take pictures and have them sign a release. We actually had one customer take us to small claims court over this. The judge made a summary judgement, after reviewing the paperwork, verifying his initials and signature on the documents, and make the customer pay us time and expenses. I believe the word the judge used was frivolous.

That rebuilt engine, wasn't rebuilt properly; if what's dripping is motor oil. Take the car to another shop for a second opinion (diagnostic). If the other shop said it coming out of the engine (rear main seal) - that's a warranty repair. Make sure they replace that 'wet' clutch assembly too; so you don't have problems down the road.

Hope this helps....

 

I had same leak in location . It’s the transmission input shaft seal. Mine disintegrated. I replaced but didn’t know depth to set seal at so when I put in , I went to far and center blew out! I ordered another and after I received I was more careful and not put in as deep. It all looked good and I put engine back in. Fired it up and my luck , it was leaking again! So I pulled engine out again . No damage to seal but I looked at a used transmissions online and saw the seal needed to go back another 3/16” + to get more over increased diameter of the input shaft. So I’m not putting engine again without knowing I solved the issue . I made an adapter to be able to spin the input shaft at various rpm via Milwaukee driver . It’s a non pressurized transmission so I think testing this way is my only way to know ! Idle in car is 600-800 rpm and max on driver is 1800 so I ran it for a bit and so far no leaks ! I’d appreciate any input before I go and put engine back in again. Here is photo of first seal installed I put to far towards engine and not in far enough. Then put in as far as I see in photos online , then how I was able to spin trans at any rpm

 

did you find out what was wrong? I have same leak as your one.

 

No , I have pulled the engine 3 times. Replaced the transmission input shaft seal 2 times now after initial engine swap. I have changed the damper and flywheel , and when I put back in it leaked again . I’m at a loss of words to what is leaking . I purchased a used transmission and am about to put it in thinking when the old engine perhaps was clanking so hard with misfire perhaps it put trans input shaft damaged and cause of leak .. I’m so tired of trying to resolve this issue . I even took to dealer and they said transmission probably damaged after I paid them 180.00 to look at it

 

Sounds terrible to be honest.. So even when you pulled engine you were not able to accurately locate the leak? Are you sure you properly fit the new seal and the old one was damaged?

 

Yes I used a seal setting tool . And I also replaced thos damper and flywheel thinking tbry could be the cause .. originally I used the ones from JDM engine after swap cause original had play in springs . It has to be damage to transmission .. I now have custom length hoist straps I used to re attach engine at proper tilt and it just slides in !

 

Used a seal setting tool , it’s in straight and proper depth

 

What’s gonna be your next step ? I wondering now if would be better to put another 2nd hand gearbox or just sell the car as it is in my case. Before I read your story I was pretty sure that must be problem with sealing. It’s a lot of work to do to take off the gearbox.