I just finished my fourth HV pack reassembly/install. First time to see these codes (P0ac0 , P0a0d) Priuschat wisdom suggests the orange interlock (esp two small pins in back), or a ground issue. I haven't pulled out my multimeter yet. Other than that: * interlock appears fine * There is one small (?) difference... Could this be it? Six large bolts connect the battery pack to the frame. This time, the large bolt under the pack electronics did NOT want to fully seat. It seems aligned, but almost as if a thread is damaged Can the ecu/etc detect one of six bolts not perfectly seated? Anything else to check? Sooo close yet so far. (this reassembly was to reorder modules to best balance. No other changes...)
I put my pack in with just the 2 bolts on the trunk side for testing and it worked fine. Don’t think it’s that.
Yes I have bolts out of mine for quick in and out and Gen 2 engine 3 does not stop the vehicle or cause any codes in my cars
It's fixed. Strange things... * Meter and examination found zero issues. * First fix: I was clearing the code using Dr Prius. It immediately returned. I tried other ways... - Hybrid Assistant does not have a code function - Torque Pro cleared code, and it stayed cleared Then I noted 12v battery was low. (Question: is there any reason a prolong charge would drain the 12v battery?) I am pretty sure this can be attributed to (im)proper clearing. One more note: one time, I managed to forget to do the orange plug properly for a moment. It is easy to check of course. (this time I failed to do the ninety degree turn before plugging it in. Of course very loose...) Just be careful to do it right.
In my gen2 I have to slam the orange plug down hard last step . Once I do this hybrids live .. it almost hurts my finger doing. No bent pins or tabs either
I disconnect the 12v when I do Prolong. They suggest it, because rear storage lights might be on and drain 12v, I just disconnect anyway.
Further comments for now: * My AGM (12v) battery is definitely wayyyy weak. Will replace soon. It's original (2011)! * I'm working with Jack (Dr Prius) on improvements to its code-clearing. HA and DP definitely use different methods When I get a few more Round Tuits, I'll post my new simpler methodology for pack/module assessment/balancing. Part of what I now do involves (for at least curiosity if not diagnosis ) running the Hybrid Assistant monitor during most if not all of a Prolong discharge cycle! (But NOT during Prolong Charge.) Here's a simplified example. The graph below shows what happens to block voltages during Prolong Discharge. This kind of data during discharge makes it obvious which blocks have weaker cells, how soon they will drop, etc etc. After the discharge is done, all that data is hidden by the fact that module voltages rapidly go up to an almost-normal level, masking most differences. To accomplish this, I can't have 12v disconnected of course. It doesn't actually cause ANY issues, as long as a few precautions are taken: Never go to Ready mode with Prolong connected, period (this alone can cause a code) Don't have the car on (aux mode) while charging, at least while the pack charge level is low. There's no value to doing so in any case. Do minimize any current drains (radio off, lights off, etc) If you have any concerns, attach an appropriate charger to the under-hood 12v attachment point(s).
I think even if the hatch light is off the car is going to be using more electrons if any door/hatch is open. Might be good to just have the 12 volt on a smart charger when doing anything like this. Won't mess up your presets too. Body shops, detailers, window tinters and similar should maybe do this too.
Yes, and half-latched (1st click only) has the same effect as wide open. Specifically, the drain with a door or hatch ajar is about 0.7 amperes, meaning two or three days will totally discharge the 12-volt.
It puts in about 0.3 to 0.4 amp. If voltage is below ~200v, it cycles between that and a tiny amount. (Since a car in action can generate or use up to 100A, this is a VERY gentle charge )
