Lit up dash, doesn't turn over. Won't move.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022.

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  1. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    Newbie here! A couple days ago I started my car, an 07 to warm up, no lights were on at that time. I drove a little ways up my driveway to close the gate, put it in park and immediately the dash lights up with just about everything! It would not go in drive or neutral only went in reverse but wouldn't even reverse properly. My 12v battery is good, its at 11.9. I put it on a 4amp maintainer as well just to make sure. When you go to start it it won't turn over, just lights up the dash then dings with the screen going to PROBLEM.
     
    #1 BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022
  2. tommymommy

    tommymommy Member

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    My guess is going to be high voltage ground fault on the hybrid battery itself. On the Gen 2 this will lock the entire car up so that it cannot be moved. You can clear The code by disconnecting the 12 volt battery and then reconnecting it after a minute or so. This will give you time to move the car back down to park it. You will need a code reader and the Toyota program to pull the codes on it. If your dealership is close by, you could baby it into the dealership but it is risky as that battery could potentially catch fire. If at any time you shut the car off it will not move again without clearing the code.
     
    #2 tommymommy, Jan 4, 2022
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  3. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    That actually makes alot of sense. I will get right on that! Thank you!
     
    #3 BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    11.9 ain't good
     
    #4 bisco, Jan 4, 2022
  5. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    Its 11.9 before turned on completely. I've had it tested at O'Reilly and they said it was fine. Charging it fully charged on the maintainer didn't take but a couple hours either.
     
    #5 BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022
  6. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I live near you in West Olympia... Your 12v needs to stay up above 12.6v to be healthy. I could help with reading error codes and diagnosis, as well as new battery install. I recommend these ones: 12V 55Ah Rechargeable SLA AGM Battery for Wind, Solar, and Off Grid Power | eBay Also if you want to check you own error codes and clear them so you don't get stranded it's always good to have one of these in your glove box and Dr. Prius app on your phone: Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus
     
    #6 PriusCamper, Jan 4, 2022
  7. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    *update* unplugged the 12v. Tried it a couple times. At first nothing but 3rd time it kicked over like nothing. Battery was at 11.9 before it kicked on. Running at 14.2 now. Ran without dash lights for about 30 secs then the red triangle of death xam on with the yellow ! It will go into drive now though.
     
    #7 BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022
  8. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    I have 2 different OBDII readers and several apps, all 3 of those listed in fact . It gives no no codes on any of them.
     
    #8 BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022
  9. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    I think you got it right! I will be pulling everything out and testing connections today. I did notice some water under my spare so it could very well just have gotten somewhere else. Im really hoping it just got a connection a little wet and has been screwing with me
     
    #9 BUCKed, Jan 4, 2022
  10. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    This is definitely your 12v battery... First step before working on a hybrid battery pack with no error codes is replacing the 12v battery. 11.9v is going to create electrical chaos when the car powers up. Also here's correct way to measure battery voltage:

    From Ed The Fox:

    12.2 volts after a charge is death. It should be at least 12.6 your 12.2 means the battery is not capable of holding a charge or not capable of charging to full capacity because it is sulphated and with a load on it probably goes to 10.5 volts. I would guess its been jumped a few times and was discharged at some point to zero volts which is really really hard on a 12 volt battery.

    Just charging a suspect battery and not seeing what it does under even a minor load is meaningless which is exactly what we see alot with the hybrid battery DIY repairs. Lots of nubes just charge up the hybrid battery modules and measure them and they look ok so they think cool its all good.

    Soon after installation of there "rebuilt" battery it throws the RTOD again and there perplexed.

    Battery 101.

    Here's a minor load:
    With car off measure voltage at front jump point. Do not ever measure battery voltage at the battery itself that is meaningless it only matters what the voltage looks like on your dc volt meter at the front black fuse box input which is the front jump point. The front jump bolt is bolting down the main power cable from the battery after it goes through a 100 amp fuse in the black plastic assy that's bolted to the top of the pos post of the battery...

    Then with car STILL OFF turn on headlights in high beam for 5 minutes. Shut the high beams off after 5 let it sit a minute then with car STILL OFF measure dc again at front JP bolt. Your car will fail that test big time.
    A healthy battery will not drop 1 volt on this very minor load test.
     
    #10 PriusCamper, Jan 4, 2022
  11. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    And he's fixed! Turns out I had some corrosion on one of my cell module posts! Took the hv battery apart, cleaned everything and it back up and running with no issues! Thanks so much for the help guys ❤
     
    #11 BUCKed, Jan 7, 2022
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  12. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    Whelp, that didn't fix the fix i guess. All the codes cleared and he started right up, several times in fact, drove it a mile down the road, hit the brakes and all the lights came on again! Shut if off, unplugged the 12v tried turning it back on and it won't now. Any suggestions guys? I'm going to go back through and check all my contacts in the morning
     
    #12 BUCKed, Jan 7, 2022
  13. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    You're flying blind without any Dr. Prius or Toyota Techstream real time data, as well as not knowing primary and secondary error codes. Did you check the voltage sensor harness where it plugs into ECU for corrosion? That's the least expensive fix.

    I could put together a loaner pack for you once you find that's needed. But we're still in diagnostic stage.
     
    #13 PriusCamper, Jan 8, 2022
  14. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    I've been trying to get Dr Pruis to connect, it hasn't worked so far i am not sure why!. ECU is clean.
     

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    #14 BUCKed, Jan 8, 2022
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  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    could be more corrosion at different connectors, i would still make sure the 12v is good
     
    #15 bisco, Jan 8, 2022
  16. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    I've checked every connection i can think of, replaced almost every fuse. 12v is good runs at a 14.2.
     
    #16 BUCKed, Jan 8, 2022
  17. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Looks like you have an aftermarket rebuilt pack and aftermarket plug as well... Do you know who built the pack?

    As for getting Dr. Prius to connect, I had to buy several OBD2 readers before I got one that worked. It's a hassle for sure!

    And did you ever get your 12v battery to hold a charge above 12.6v? I'd make sure you have that resolved before putting too much effort in elsewhere.

    Also you aren't too far of a drive away from me if you want to borrow one of my code readers? I could drive it out there if need be?
     
    #17 PriusCamper, Jan 8, 2022
  18. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    If I remember correctly the dealership had a new battery put in shortly before I bought it.

    I brought the 12v in this morning, it was reading at 12.4 after setting all night. I have it on a maintainer now. When the car ran and drove yesterday it was reading at 14.2 per the maintenance screen. Hit my brake and the lights came in and it fell to 11.9. Ive checked all my contacts and fuses, no corrosion or anything!

    Which reader do you have? My father in law is bringing his over soon, hopefully it will work.
     
    #18 BUCKed, Jan 8, 2022
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  19. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    14 is the inverter, not the 12v. 12.4 and 11.9 are borderline, may or may not be the problem
     
    #19 bisco, Jan 8, 2022
  20. BUCKed

    BUCKed Junior Member

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    Okay, 3rd OBDII reader is the charm! I was able to pull code P0AFA, which from my understanding is a miscommunication or wiring concern somewhere around the hv battery?
     
    #20 BUCKed, Jan 8, 2022
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