Prius 2005

disconnect the 12v neg for a minute, and you should be able to start the car and bring it home.

if the triangle wasn't on when you dropped it off, it sounds like they did something nefarious.

if it comes on again, take it to another dealer or hybrid shop if there is one available to you. let them read the codes and give you a second opinion.
one thing about refurbished batteries is that the cells are old, and can easily go bad again. is there a greenbean near you, or someone who installs new cells for a reasonable price?

you may only need one or two modules and some balancing, if anything. how many miles on her?

 

If you plan on keeping the car for more than 2 years and you would need reliable transportation, then do not buy a refurbished battery. The new batteries have come down in price to about $1700 for DIY repair or about $2200-$2500 from a shop. That will last you good 10 years and will be trouble free. Also the car's resale value will significantly be higher with a new battery vs old/refurbished battery

If you want to go the refurbished route, it should only be about $500 - $900 now. Anything more would just be throwing money away. this option would be good if you are in need of a cheaper repair and won't need reliability

 

Was the red triangle light on when you took the car in? You say you took it in for regular maintenance, not because a warning light was on. Sure, it is possible that it all went wrong by chance while at the dealer. Also possible that the dealer is a crook and they are trying to rip you off. I will let you weigh the relative weights of those two possibilities. If it was me in that situation I would have a trusted independent mechanic look at the car, even if it meant towing it to them.

 

Ummm
Change the hybrid battery?

 

Ownership in a hybrid will require you to replace the HV battery when it fails. There are methods to prolong the use of the battery, but they typically last about 10 years. Yours being a 2005, should have some type of work done to it, the battery probably is not original to the car anymore.

Your mileage seems very low at 111k miles for a 16 year old car. If the mileage is accurate and the car is in good condition, replacing the HV battery with a new one will probably be your best option. I can recommend a shop that will charge you $2500 for the new Toyota battery. Or you can try to do it yourself for about $1900 including taxes for a Toyota battery.

 

If you want to get your car to Armstrong Auto Service in Rosemead (which isn't too far away from OC California), they will charge you $2500 for a Brand New Toyota battery and labor is included.

 

looks like greentec has the battery for $1,750. a new toyota oem is around the same price, but dealers charge too much for installation.
do your due diligence on greentek, idk if you can trust them or not, or what they are using for new modules.

the lights only tell you that there is a problem, and please read the trouble codes. the codes you posted are related to the battery, but sometimes it's as simple as wiring corrosio. but for a 16 y.o. prius with 111k, it likely needs a battery

 

The only codes shown on that printout are codes from the brake/skid ECU, and they don't indicate any issue with the traction battery at all.

Sometimes people get an incomplete set of codes because a generic scan tool did not contact all of the computers in the Prius to ask for their codes. Traction battery codes would be read from the HV ECU and the battery ECU.

But it's convenient, in the Prius, that the brake/skid ECU will set special codes of its own (C1259 and C1310) when there are HV ECU codes present. Because we have the brake/skid codes in this printout and those two aren't among them, it's fair to conclude there aren't some unread HV or battery ECU codes lurking in this car.

The C1241 that is shown has to do with low voltage of the 12-volt power supply reaching the brake/skid ECU. That can (but won't always) be a result of a bad 12 volt battery (the small, cheaper one, in the back of the car in the corner).

So it would be sensible to test the condition of that small battery, and see if that's the reason for the C1241. If that's all it is, good. If the C1241 persists even after that battery is fully charged or changed, then one proceeds to checking the wiring, connections, and fuses along the path to powering the brake ECU. A good scan tool, like Techstream, can show you what the actual voltage reaching the brake ECU is.

Those other brake ECU codes, I would temporarily shrug off, then see if it still reports them after the supply-power issue behind the C1241 is resolved.