Transmission Fluid Change Feed Tube Question

14 or 15 mm also fit, so yes.

Just fill it in. You wouldn't make your gearbox any happier by putting it in deeper and deeper .

I wouldn't work under a car so hot it could burn my skin. And if you can touch the gearbox and the old ATF, everything is cool enough not to melt anything.

If you haven't bought it yet: The part number for the aluminum gaskets (for both plugs) is 90430-18008, use new ones every time you loosen the plugs.
By the way, you will need a 10 mm Allen key for one plug and a 24 mm wrench or nut for the other. The torque for tightening is 39 Nm.

Tip. Always loosen the oil filler plug first and then the oil drain plug. Background: If you have already drained the oil and then find that you cannot loosen the oil filler plug - you may have a problem!

FP4 ?

 

Another tip:
Do only ONE thing at a time.
Engine coolant.
Inverter coolant.
Transmission.
And drive it a day or two in between.

Because......IF you do all 3 at the same time and then there is something wrong afterwards, it makes it a LOT more difficult to determine which operation caused the problem.

 

It's a little easier if you have an OBD scan tool.

A source of frustration with the car is that there is only one "red-thermometer" idiot light on the dash, which tells you something overheated, but not what.

If you have a scan tool you can pull up the individual readings and see what.

 

Agree with everything, except, not sure if it's clear, but I would score a ratchet socket style 10 mm male "Allen Key", use it on a ratchet wrench, preferably long-handled, for removal. And use a torque wrench if you can manage, for the reinstall.

There's been a few reports, people using an actual Allen Key, say with a "cheater pipe" extension, and having it round the socket.

And yeah to chime in for question #1: the od on the hose I've used is 14 mm, and it's got lots of elbow room. It only need go in an inch or two, think it hits something then anyways.

Fill till it starts coming back out, with the car level. Use only new Toyota ATF WS fluid from freshly opened bottles, recycle the left over.

Attached level check is all the 2nd gen Repair Manual has, guess cus it's "lifetime fluid". 3rd gen does smarten up, describes a change. I'll attach both, fwiw.

 

You're totally right. I just didn't knew the correct English words and was too lazy for using a translator But the L shaped IKEA type Allen key is rather a toy than a tool.
A ratchet for loosening and a torque wrench for tightening should it be, yes .

FP4 ?

 

The reports of allen key type wrenches rounding out the plug are most likely due to cheap, soft, undersized allen keys. A good one will not do that. I have used some serious cheater pipes on those wrenches on other equipment. In fact, one time, it took two of us on a four foot cheater bar to loosen some 7/8" allen bolts.

But, since you need a torque wrench to properly tighten the plugs, the allen key really serves no purpose unless the plug is too tight for a ratchet and you don't have a breaker bar. Just be sure to use quality wrenches in any case.

 

I struggle with what to call the "hex driver socket" too. Because it's a "male" gizmo, "socket" doesn't sound right.

Ah, looked it up; mostly it's described as "hex bit socket".

 

Yeah no Harbor Freight tools.

Be prepared for how hard it is to get that side fill hole plug off it’s going to require a big breaker bar it’s really on there. I usually use a long piece of EMT
pipe over the breaker bar. And take a second make sure your going the correct way to take it off.

I just Jack the front of the car up and add 4 quarts using a long plastic tube in the fill hole. Not necessary to make the car level.
I always used Redline D6 it really liked that stuff.
Did this 3 times over the years. Found out you really only need to change the trans once fluid looked very good on subsequent changes but that’s a superior synthetic fluid very little wear it may be different with WS.
Car is 14+ years old still running perfectly.

And Not necessary to take the car for a ride to check just dumping the rad
Coolant.
It will not invoke an airlock. Just keep an eye on the coolant level the next day before starting the car. Did this rad dump multiple times on multiple cars no problem just make sure your using the rad fill cap not the overflow tank.

Just Jack the front up real high put Ramps under it let the car become cool and get at it.

 

If you're capable of having the car raised and level, I would do that.

 

Not neccessary. trans takes 4 quarts. You have never owned one or worked on one.

 

I can't remember just where the fill plug is positioned on the Gen 2, but on a Gen 4, it's way at the back so filling it with the right amount with the back lower than the front will make a mess while you fumble with getting the plug threaded back in. Seems like the Gen 2 was more toward the middle IIRC.

 

Well I've changed gen 3 transaxle fluid 3 times now (about 2 times too many), and getting the level "right" is as easy as falling off a log, if the car is level. You fill till it starts coming back out, and that is at the high end of the spec. This is gen 2 Repair Manual excerpt:



It's not HARD to raise and level the car; I do it every spring and fall with tire swaps, put the whole thing on safety stands.

Technical question: in the above pic, are the plugs on the face towards front or rear of car? I'm thinking front?

 

You are wasting your energy trying to talk to him.
It would accomplish more talking that that famous Ed the talking horse.

 

Yes, you're right, the filler plug is towards front side.

FP4 ?