Do i need new rotors?

How many miles on the car and how much longer do you plan on driving it for?

 

No professional is going to put their business name at risk in doing a brake job that isn't safe. Brakes are used to stop that hunk of metal you're driving and if anything goes wrong, it's the guy that touched it last that gets the blame.

 

2nd gen rotor specs and inspection procedure are in the attached. How many miles on those rotors, and they're original? They look good.

 

NO rotor with more than 100 miles on it will be perfectly smooth.
Getting close to minimum thickness OR obvious deep gouges OR out-of-true causing pedal vibration......are all immediate FAILS.

If you hope to keep it for a while, probably a good thing to do now.

 

But a really LOT of them will put their business at risk by lying to people, it seems.
And eventually the word gets around.

 

The goal is to be sure that both the rotors and the pads are within spec at all times. If the rotors are on the hairy edge of "acceptable" now they could be well past "acceptable" before the pads wear down again. Rotors are not very expensive, and if the pads need to be changed anyway, might as well play it safe and replace both.

 

There's also a runout check, which requires a dial indicator, typically attached to an arm with magnetic base. That said, if you're not feeling any pulsing, it's likely all good. FWIW, I've only ONCE needed a rotor replaced (decades back), ran down past min thickness, and developed a crack.

 

Wouldn't bother, and it just reduces their thickness.

 

NOT a practical option.
Modern car makers almost ALL put on MUCH thinner rotors these days and there really isn't enough material there to "turn" without cutting it below the minimum spec.
When they get down close to the minimum spec. OR show signs of serious damage, they really NEED to be replaced.

 

Bottom line: the rotors look good, have lots of thickness, aren't pulsing; what's not to like.

 

A Gen 2 front rotor is born with 22 mm thickness and goes to pasture at 20 mm.

If you make a 0.15 mm cut on each side, that's 0.3 mm off the rotor. If you do two such passes, 0.6 mm off.

A machine shop might decline to turn it if there's less than about 0.8 mm remaining, so at least it could have a couple machining passes and still some margin remaining for wear. Given a Prius rotor is born with 2 mm to go, machining can be practical as long as it is not too worn or too grooved by the time the job is considered.

 

You were told......WRONG. Absolutely, totally wrong.

You should stop listening to that person, whoever it is.
Probably someone who will profit from selling you stuff you don't really need.

 

I would only change them if they're deeply scored, seriously rust-pitted, cracked*, near-or-below minimum thickness, or way out-of-true, the last two per the Toyota specs.

* Had that happen to me, once.