Code still remains AFTER replacing bad module?? Help!

The Deoxit goes on AFTER the connection is tightened.......not before and not on the conducting surfaces.

 

Wack o mole stage 1 completed.

 

CAIG makes a bunch of DeoxIT products, several of them straight contact cleaners, and a few of them greases. The cleaners come in 5% and 100% formulations. The OP hasn't said which product was used.

It won't surprise anyone that the straight contact cleaners are used right on the conducting surfaces before mating them. CAIG says "more is not better" and recommends that if a 100% formulation is applied, it is wiped off before use, which will leave a thin film. The 5% solution can just be applied and left there, and will be a thin film after the solvent evaporates.

Their greases, while it might be more surprising, are also specified for direct application on the conducting surfaces.

Technical-Information - CAIG

 

Trust in the ALL MIGHTY COMPUTER, it is never wrong - until it is. You need to individually load and voltage test each cell. The computer is only giving you a guess as to which cell or cells are bad. It could be a few cells north or south of #12. The only way to know for sure is to test them individually. Pay particular attention to the bookend cells of each bank; in my experience one of them is usually bad.

Re: DeoxIT products, used them for over 30 years. Works GREAT, as long as your applying them properly - per instructions.

 

The computer stores permanent error codes and they stay until you've driven a normal driving cycle (per Toyota) with the problem fixed, then the computer clears it. That it's still showing block 12 may mean you are seeing the permanent code and need to drive it some more before it clears.

 

Well, it's guessing based on 14 little copper wires leading directly to 14 pairs of modules.

A pretty good way to 'guess'.

 

Well I really don't want to argue this point.

The fact is that he's taken the pack apart twice. We can either all laugh at him and let him "bang his head against the wall"; or we can try to help him out. Even if he's going after the correct set of cells, properly testing the individual cells will give him a definitive answer and hopefully prevent a fourth or fifth tear-down. No offense Levi...

good luck...

 

One thing that could be fun to try would be to open the case up again, leave all the modules where they are, and swap the block 12 sense wire with one of the other sense wires (whichever one is shorter might need you to kludge up a little extension, and insulate your joint really well). Then see what block the ECU is complaining about.

 

Check this thread out for permanent code clearing
Permanent P0A80 & required drive cycles needed to clear it | PriusChat

 

Sorry Levi, I'm mainly in the Prius plug-in forums. Try this link:

I think those batteries are 7.4 VDC nominal. Assuming 80% capacity, they shouldn't go below 5.9 VDC when you apply the load. I usually don't get hung-up on specifics, a bad battery will go down to a couple of volts or zero as so as you apply the load. A good battery should remain in the 6 volt battery "yellow" weak zone for a good 5 seconds.
Don't lean on that load button too long, 3-5 seconds on each battery should tell you if it's good. That tester will get hot going through all those batteries; but hopefully you'll get all those bad cells.

Most people only look at battery voltage and think it's all good - but if a battery won't carry a load, it can't do it's job.

 

Correction: