Hey y'all, My new 2006 Prius failed state inspection for a dark dash (combo meter), and per our sale agreement the dealer is going to fix it for me. Taking it down today. The mechanic ALSO told me the serpentine belt was very cracked and needed replacement, and the front breaks (specifically, right) needed new pads + rotors, and were so close to failing the right would likely fail on reinspection. He also said they had uneven wear and the calipers "floated and stuck" - not sure ONLY the right caliper, or the right is just worse. I'm gonna try to talk the dealer into doing the pads and rotors for me to save us both some time, and if he doesn't bite just have the mechanic do it along with reinspection. As for the calipers, i want to order that Toyota cleaning kit and just clean them when i get the chance. So: I know it's better to keep the OEM calipers than pay for cheaper replacements. Should i also care about pad/rotor quality? Bc either of those guys is probably gonna go cheap on the parts. Am i right that the pads/rotors can survive a few weeks with bad calipers while i get the fix kit/ snoop around for some salvage from a Prius with a dead battery? The other thing is that, while replacing the belt, i found my inverter coolant is a little low in the overflow tank, and there's some pink stuff on a grey part near the driver side headlights. Pics below. So Am i right that this doesn't look like a leak? Just sealant/ some marking a mechanic left? That's the wrong shade of pink, right? What even IS that part? The coolant is pretty new (a few months ago, by Carfax) and only need a centimeter or two to top off. Could i just use water or some kind of additive, or do i have to buy a whole gallon of the Toyota stuff? Fwiw, I live in Maryland, so it freezes in winter, but not like Boston bad or anything.
Just a reminder to all of us Prii owners. You need to periodically lubricate the slide pins on the brake calipers so they center themselves smoothly and wear evenly (albeit slowly). JeffD
Yes, the pink marks are just that, pink marks left from a marker pen. Nothing to worry about. Toyota Super Long Life Coolant is 50/50 mixed with de-ionized water and protects down to less than -30 degrees, so I wouldn't be concerned about adding a couple ounces of purified water. (distilled)
I make a point of inspecting the brake calipers every time I rotate tires. With the pads out, I look at the rubber seals over the slide pins (and piston too, of course), and push the caliper in and out to the full travel of the pins. Usually it takes a few pushes to wake up the grease in there so they feel smooth and easy again. I don't bother doing anything more than that unless the rubber seals show damage or the sliding doesn't feel right after a few pushes. Typically just takes minutes.
Sweet. And looking at some posts here (and my inspection report) it seems like the rotors were within spec. So i just need the pads and to clean the caliper pin, making sure to UNPLUG THE BATTERY FIRST, (and the two blue fuses in the fuse box under the hood?)
No, you don't need to remove the two relays (which is what thiose two blue components are) if you disconnect the 12 V battery. It is one or the other. If you don't have a way to reset any brake DTCs that might be set as a by-product of your maintenance, then disconnecting the 12 V battery would be the better thing of the two options.
I don't believe either is needed for Gen 2 Prius, definitely need to do so for Gen 3.. ( unless you're absolutely sure that no one will open the driver's side door while you working on it)... Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
For my Gen 3, I'm normally the only one around when I'm doing tire rotations, and I don't bother disconnecting anything, but if I have been in the car and started it, I make sure to wait until I've heard it to the brake self test (a couple minutes after shutdown) before I begin any work. A piece of painter's tape over the driver's door handle can be a good reminder not to open it. If you really want more certainty that everything's asleep, Gen 3 has a fat white cable you can disconnect right in the fusebox, and Gen 2 has one right at the positive battery post that you can just squeeze and unplug. More convenient than fussing with a wrench and the battery post clamps. After doing that, you have to reset the clock, set your radio stations, teach the windows where up is (Gen 2 anyway), and so on.