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Overheating after full tuneup and Blue Devil

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Abraham Marcus Warren, Sep 18, 2021.

  1. Abraham Marcus Warren

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    Overheating after full tuneup and Blue Devil. At 120k miles she started having some bad engine rattle, only upon startup at first, and then it progressed to start doing it at stops and slower speeds....but once she was up in the gears and running at speed she drove perfectly fine....but having it checked the first guy said it was definitely motor mounts. This didn't make sense so me so I had 2nd opinion at Midas and they ran codes and said it's calling for new plugs and wires (they were original, so it made sense). They wanted $1600 to do plugs and wires which seemed outlandish to me. So I took to shade tree mechanic (he seems like a real good guy and my gut tells me he's honest) and he said the same that the codes were calling for full tuneup. So after ordering parts and having him do the tune up the engine rattle was still there. Same behavior. He then said it's very likely a blown head gasket, and we all know that's not cheap. So he offered an option to gamble and try the Blue Devil - he says he's had similar situations and BD worked perfectly and gave a number of years on the car. So I had him do it and WALA!! She ran like brand spankin new!! For one day. Literally drove perfectly all day - (I maybe did 3 trips back and forth across town, etc.) The next day (she sat for almost 24 hours after that perfect day) I got in and drove into town and halfway there she is running extra extra hot and the dash is telling me all sorts of scary stuff about STOP VEHICLE, CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM, Warning Triangle, temp warning, etc etc. What is this !?!? I can't afford a big ticket job right now I'm looking for DIY solutions. I'm moderately capable myself or have a good honest cheap mechanic who can help. Thanks for advice in advance everyone!
     
  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Head gasket is blown, money is wasted and perhaps low coolant now. That is is the optimistic assessment. Hopefully the repair attempts have not cost you the engine via overheating. Head gaskets are a known problem on 2010-14 Prius engines. By the way, when gambling the house always wins.
     
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  3. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Plugs and wires? There are no wires. This car uses individual coil packs.

    Sounds like a blown head gasket.
     
  4. dig4dirt

    dig4dirt MoonGlow

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    Time to DIY a new engine.

    Perhaps a head gasket is doable

    @Mendel Leisk can fill you in on the vinegar cleanse. ;)
     
  5. Abraham Marcus Warren

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    Thanks for the correction. Just used to saying plugs and wires, but yes coil packs and plugs replaced. The rattle is gone completely. But still overheating. Thanks for feedback.




    Thanks for the kind feedback.

    Thanks for your positive input. Appreciate it.
     
    #5 Abraham Marcus Warren, Sep 18, 2021
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 18, 2021
  6. ALS

    ALS Active Member

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    Don't ask me about using anything Blue Devil makes. Had a small leak in my PS rack with my Volvo and added Blue Devil as recommended. Leak stopped for a couple weeks, then started back up so I added a little more as the instructions stated. Two weeks later every seal connected to my Power Steering system was puking fluid. Needless to say the whole system had to be replaced due to damage the product caused to the seals.
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Nothing complicated. There's one such product (I forget which, @cnc97 might be the guy who knows), an email to the company got a response, with the advice that acetic acid (vinegar) could dissolve their product, make it flushable. Specifically, drain the coolant system and fill with a 50/50 mix of water* and vinegar.

    A method, just off the top of my head:

    1. If possible, scoop a bit of the gloop, and test it with a small amount of the 50/50 mix, see if it's effective, disolves it. If not, that's all she wrote.

    2. Assuming it was effective: mix up about 1.5 US gallon of the mix (a bit more than required), drain the engine coolant system, with cabin temp set to high. Then refill with the 50/50 water/vinegar mix, per the usual coolant change procedure (see attached).

    3. Do another drain and refill, this time just with distilled water.

    4. Do another drain and refill, this time start the refill with 3.7 liters or 3.9 US Quarts (slightly more than half of the system total capacity, per attachement), of Toyota Long Life Coolant**. Then complete the fill with distilled water. This should hopefully leave you with a 50/50 coolant mix, even with the residual distilled water that was in the system.

    5. Since the Long Life Coolant does not have as long a service life, schedule a subsequent drain and fill with Super Long Life Coolant, say for 30K miles or 3 years max.

    * Preferably distilled water I think.

    ** Long Life Coolant is the full-strength coolant Toyota offers. Super Long Life Coolant is the spec'd coolant, has a longer service life, but only comes pre-mixed.
     
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  8. Abraham Marcus Warren

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    Thank you so very much for this helpful feedback and the time you offered to give it. You are appreciated sir!
     
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  9. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Yes, that’s what Blue Devil recommended to neutralize their concoction of “maybe mechanic in a bottle”.

    I would say that after the rinse, use a 60/40 coolant/water to compensate for residual water though. Peak and Prestone coolants say to go 70/30 for maximum protection, but I don’t see a need for protection to -84° F.
     
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  10. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    I would stick with Toyota SLLC or similar formula with phospate.
     
  11. Sacko107

    Sacko107 Junior Member

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    i have similar situation. 2013 Prius V. 236,000 miles.
    About 130,000 miles had symptoms of head gasket failure. Used Bars which lasted for a while. Have added as needed and switched to K-Seal which was great for a while. Fast foward, have been blowing coolant out of the reservoir. Changed reservoir with cap and water pump - should have tried the thermostat at the same time. No change with coolant pumping out of the cap. The temperature sensor dash light comes on briefly if driving distance at higher speed. Goes off as soon as i coast and typically does not come back on. I am looking for the most direct answer to the problem and i'm hoping it's not the worst case scenario - that the engine is just too full of sealant and gunk to salvage. Is there any possibility cleaning the EGR valve, replacing the thermostat or flushing the radiator would alleviate the coolant blowing out?