I would appreciate if I could get some direction on diagnosing and fixing this fault. When I start the car, the engine and car symbols are lighted up. Using Dr. Prius, the only error is P0A80. Attached are photos of Dr. Prius battery monitor. I tried to do the battery test by fast accelerating and decelerating and the percentage didn't go over 60 something percent so I couldn't do the complete test.
2013 Yaris hybrid 1.5l 178k km P0A80 fault I would appreciate if I could get some direction on diagnosing and fixing this fault. When I start the car, the engine and car symbols are lighted up. Using Dr. Prius, the only error is P0A80. A couple of things that stand out for me: - blade voltage 8.2V (too high ??) - module voltages and internal resistance rather uniform - delta SOC around 40% and not changing - can't perform Dr. Prius battery test as fast acceleration/deceleration don't get the percentage charge above 60 something % (not sure if I'm doing this right) Attached are photos of Dr. Prius battery monitor.,battery test (only first phase) and Battery monitor log
@vjekobalas Ouch...sorry to see the result like this. Delta SOC at 39.5% is pretty bad, take a look at your "Max charge" is only at 3.4 HP, basically means your ECU is locking up your battery for charging and discharging hence you won't be able to complete any test. I "think" your #10 block is weak, can you idle the car till the engine kick-in and take a picture? then you should see which block is giving you the bad delta V. Jack
I turned the car on and the engine kicked in just a few seconds afterwards. I then took several screenshots. I don't have any experience in diagnosing hybrids, so what I'm going to say is just my thoughts/may not be relevant: What is confusing to me about saying anything about the modules is that although the battery voltages are not balanced they don't have a large variation (the bar graphs seem to exaggerate the difference as that is their task) and the bar graphs constantly change and in only 3 screen shots we see 3 modules with low voltage but it's always changing. What should I do next ?
it is still at 55% SOC, you won't see any big voltage variation at that SOC. try putting the gear in neutral and see if that drain the battery without engine kick-in, and stop this experiment before SOC reach 40%.
In neutral, without anything else turned on, it is discharging at 1A and it will take ages to go down above 40% - should I just continue at this slow discharge (which I presume is the healthiest for the battery) or speed it up a bit ? I went down to 43.1% and stopped there (your warning about the 40% scared me a bit) Here's the progression There's only a variation of .19V between the modules
Can you still drive the car? Will it "ready" and go into drive? If so then drive the car while (someone) safely monitors the block voltages during heavy acceleration and deceleration. The delta SOC of 40% is what you usually see when a battery module has a failed/shorted cell. You often won't see it initially unless the battery is heavily loaded, say 50 to 100+ amps. Then you might see a voltage difference of 1.0-1.2V lower on discharge and almost that much difference higher on charge. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Couldn't answer sooner- something wrong with the Prisuchat login. Your input is much appreciated. Yes, the car still runs with the engine and car symbol lighting up. At the moment, I'm trying to get my head around all the steps/gear for the reconditioning process. I saw TMR-JWAP's thread Just Another HV Battery Thread and Experiments | PriusChat and posed a few questions at the end of that thread - hoping he or someone will set me straight so that I understand the whole process in detail. To start with I would like to further monitor the block voltages as you suggest so that I have additional information to the Dr. Prius graphics above. In TMR-JWAP's thread I mentioned above, in post #5 there is a graphic of how the modules behave under load. Does under load mean turning on eg. A/C while in neutral ? Which app/tools are needed to obtain the graphic and what apps/tools would you suggest ? I have the VeePeak OBD2 and have ordered a mini vci.
Did some more digging and correct me if I'm wrong both Techstream and Torque pro give the possibility of producing the voltage charts (I have OBD2 and am waiting for mini vci, so will try Torque pro first) - now I'd just appreciate an answer on what test is used for putting modules under load and what test or tests I should do now (I'm a bit hesitant on doing any more driving/tests than necessary as I'm worried about damage to good modules so want to be sure I do the right tests to better identify problem module before removing battery and checking modules/wiring/oxidation etc.)
Have heard of various "load tests" which can be performed on the battery while it is still in the car/driveable : driving (acceleration/deceleration), parking and turning on air conditioning while in neutral - there's probably others - is there any advantage of which method is used in better identifying faulty module?
CQ3 charger arrived. The battery is still complete but the modules have just been disconnected and are sitting now for about 1 week. Open circuit voltage of all modules is between 7.70V and 7.68V. I haven't done any load test yet. As Dr. Prius showed internal resistance between 21mOhm-22mOhm for all modules, I was thinking of not stressing the modules unnecessarily. Is it wisest to do the load test with light bulb or try a charge discharge cycle ?
