Master Alarm (Triangle of Death) ABS Code C1310

Welcome to PriusChat!!

You might have unread codes (DTCs) that are still stored in the ECUs, as not OBD2 scanners are Toyota hybrid compatible.

Otherwise try scanning after you've driven it around some, but before you "erase" the OBD2 codes (DTCs) or disconnect the 12v.

Here the is work up for DTC C1259 and DTC C1310 : https://share.qclt.com/丰田普瑞斯原厂英文手册pdf格式/Repair Manual/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic12595.pdf

FYI : your posts are being moderated until you've posted 5 times.

 

Symptoms: Vehicle will display master alarm on dash and will not set (Ready Mode), so car will not go into Drive or Reverse. Power to systems comes on but can not drive car. If system is fully reset (12v and HV batteries disconnected) then re connected, car will go into (Ready Mode) and is fully drivable will all systems functioning until about 2 minutes pass, then master alarm will come back on (Car will remain drivable until it is shut off).

The only code that causes these symptoms is the P0AA6- which is a reduction of the HV insulation. It could be the battery (likely), the cabling, the inverter, the AC system or the transaxle. If you get a reader that speaks Toyota hybrid, it will likely show the P0AA6 and a subcode to help isolate it. You do not need to remove the HV disconnect to reset it, only disconnect the 12v battery. Just remember, disconnecting the 12v also resets all codes (which is why it lets you drive the car again)

 

Is the correct "fortune Cookie" description, but it doesn't help very much on its own. The C1310 is set in the brake ECU because it has been notified of some issue by the hybrid vehicle (HV) ECU. The codes in the HV ECU (and possibly in the Battery ECU) are the ones that will really tell you what's going on, but this code scanner does not seem to have read those. Toyota Techstream or some other scan tool that knows how to retrieve HV ECU and battery codes would get you the information you need.

As mentioned in the above posts, if you were to read the HV and or battery ECUs, you will probably find a P0AA6 and probably some other codes.

 

Is that a typo? It is only charging at 20 V?

There are 7 INF codes for this DTC which can be found in the freeze frame data which you should find on the advanced page somewhere. Look for a button with a snowflake icon (or the letters FFD) on it.
The trouble areas for this code are:

• ABS MTR relay
• ABS MTR 2 relay
• Harness and connector
• Brake actuator assembly

The INF codes will help zoom in on the trouble area.

That seems to be running more often than usual.

You still need to read the battery ECU and the Hybrid Vehicle. The C1310 code means that you need to look at those other ECUs for the answer.

 

Where exactly are you measuring with your meter? Do you have the HV battery disassembled?

 

This looks like the places you're looking descriptions up are too generic.

Any C1 code is manufacturer defined, not defined by SAE, so it is free to mean one thing in one car and something entirely different in some other car. That some manufacturer might build some car out there where C1310 has to do with some "active booster solenoid" is of no use to you as a Prius owner.



The "HV system malfunction" is the right fortune cookie in a Prius. As dolj explained up in post #4, what it means is that your HV ECU has detected a malfunction, and set a trouble code (or multiple codes) about it, and you need to read those codes to find out why you have the C1310. It appears that the scan tool you are using does not retrieve codes from the HV ECU (or from the battery ECU, which could also have codes, depending on what the HV ECU reports).

The C1253 is indeed its own problem, with the hydraulic pump and controls in the braking system, and you seem to be on the right track as far as that one goes.

When you say your meter, do you mean an electrical multimeter with leads that you have placed somewhere related to the battery, or do you mean a CAN-based meter that you have plugged into the car's diagnostic port and selected some display related to the HV battery?

 

Looking at your original phrasing, if the car is charging I'd expect that the units would be Amps. If you are really seeing V and not A, maybe your 'meter' is wrong or maybe you misinterpreted it.

 

Something seriously not right there, with my first suspicions aimed at the connection of the test leads.

 

From my (limited) experience with reading voltage at the HV bat, normally this voltage will be in the 180 - 240 V DC range. If however the "safety plug" is not FULLY CONNECTED, ie the HV bat is effectively disconnected, the voltage at the terminals reads around 20V DC. I suggest you check this connection an extra 3 times ;-) I've made far more simple mistakes myself. Of course some ECU/electronics of the car might be "disconnecting" the HV bat. Good luck and please let us know what you find.

 

If the meter connections were "at the main HV battery contacts before the contactor's", which the OP said and which also has to be true for 220 volts to have been measured with the car off, then there isn't any way for an ECU to be disconnecting the battery ahead of that point. And if the system is able to go READY and crank the engine, the service plug is fully connected.

Still, there is something clearly not right about the reading when it drops to "0Volt to 20ishVolts". The reason my first suspicion would focus on the meter lead connections themselves is that with a battery of that size, there aren't a lot of other explanations for such a reading that wouldn't also involve smoke or flame.

 

Here is the diagnostic workup for DTC P0AA6 : https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2018/04/145252_2006_Prius_RM_-_P0AA6.pdf

 

Yes, the frame wire connects the battery in the rear of the car to the inverter/converter in the front of the car. The junction block is the assembly inside the battery enclosure that contains the system main relays and resistor. There is also a "no. 2 frame wire" that runs along one side of all the battery modules and connects them to the battery ECU.

Notice you have INF code 612, which pins down the leak into the green region of the drawing SFO attached. The frame wire is outside that region (but the no. 2 frame wire is inside it, so still among the possible suspects).

 

At some point, pretty much any investigation of a -612 is going to involve some high-voltage gloves, getting the battery cover off, and a megger.

Once you have the requisite stuff and the cover off, the service plug is just attached to the battery terminals at two points, and you can check whether disconnecting it at both points will change the megger reading you see.

By the same token, once you have the requisite stuff and the cover off, it might be just as easy to go through the usual checks in the usual order, and you should end up finding the leak before long whether the service plug is the right guess or not.