2008 Prius All warning lights are on.

How old is the 12v? How old is the Hybrid Battery?

 

Anytime 12v power is removed and restored, the first press of the power button (with foot on brake) will power up the dash but you will have every imaginable light lit. A second press of the power button will reset all the lights and actually bring the car to life. If any warning lights are still lit, it's because they are probably real.

You will also lose all radio presets and the 'auto' function of the driver window. Reset the window by putting it in the mid position, then raise it and hold the button in the raise position for about 5 more seconds after it physically reaches the raised position.

 

Just random question, do you have a Scangauge? that caused mine to throw all sorts of HV errors after I installed a new hv battery. there was just an issue with the guages I added.

Have you driven around town or only idled? My guess is something simple is throwing a bunch of unreleated code errors.

Have you checked all the fueses? All that water might have shorted something.

 

So, you can actually drive the vehicle with all systems seeming to operate as normal despite error lights being on?

Let us know what Dr Prius shows.

 

Both of those codes mean that there are trouble codes in the Hybrid Vehicle ECU to tell you what the actual trouble is. By themselves they don't tell you anything else. If the scan tool you are using is not showing you the codes from the HV ECU, we're kind of shooting in the dark until you can find a way to read those trouble codes or get them read.

 

There's no indication here of something "throwing a bunch of unrelated" codes.

We have C1259 and C1310 which are well-defined codes the brake/skid ECU sets on purpose when the HV ECU tells it there are hybrid powertrain issues. There are codes in the HV and potentially battery ECU that haven't been read. That's also a fairly common picture here, when someone reads codes using a tool that knows there is a brake ECU but doesn't know about the HV or battery ECUs.

The fuses are probably just fine. Quickest path to identifying the problem likely goes through finding a way to get the HV and battery ECU codes read.

Do you still have the C1241, by the way?

 

There was a snowflake next to that P0AA6. Did you click that before clearing the code, in order to see what INF codes went with it? They could tell you whether the detected high-voltage leak was in the transaxle, inverter, air conditioner, wiring, or battery. Even if it hasn't been re-detected yet, it might help you out with your contingency planning.

You also might want to know that as you mull whether you want to replace the battery on the strength of something Dr. Prius says, if no P0A80 has been reported.

If the leak was in the battery ... fixing a leak doesn't always require replacing the battery, but if you want to replace the battery anyway, then that also takes care of the leak. But if the leak was elsewhere, then you have to mull how much you feel like replacing the battery while there is another likely expense in the queue.

 

Good heavens no, I hope there aren't any posts anywhere suggesting that. (Is there a link to one somewhere that you've seen?)

That sounds like you might have read about ordinary tests for "parasitic" drains on the 12 volt aux battery, but you are remembering them as being for the high-voltage battery instead.

A P0AA6 is a report of deteriorated insulation somewhere in the high-voltage system, not necessarily inside the battery (though that is one place it could end up being). The first step in pinning it down is looking at the three-digit INF codes recorded along with the P0AA6. Pinning it down further generally involves high-voltage precautions and an instrument called a megohmmeter or "megger". (Megger is a brand, but they've met the same fate as band-aids and kleenex.)

 

Well, the convenient thing about -612 is if you were thinking maybe you wanted to replace the battery anyway, and you do that, then you don't have the leaking one anymore.

Otherwise, it's possible you might open it up and find some obvious conductive path(s) somewhere that can be cleaned up, or localized to modules that can be replaced. That takes more doing.

In any case, be especially careful opening up and working in any battery that has reported P0AA6-612. You should own and wear the specified protective gear, like gloves. In normal, non-leaking batteries, the built-in safety features (like the service plug you pull out to begin) work well enough that you can be sort of cavalier about the precautions and laugh about it later, but when voltage leakage is known to be present, those bets are off.

 

Water leak is interesting. Was it just water or battery acid? Also any corrosion on wire connections?

 

It was likely a water leak — a well known Prius Gen 2 design problem. I fixed mine with Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure and some marine grade sealant. I also had to replace the ABS unit (black box) next to the battery that had failed. There are some YouTube how to videos on the roof leak and how to fix it.