GEN 2 PRIUS NOT STARTING

Sounds like your 12v is discharging fast, probably due to a parasitic draw. Need to measure it and then isolate by fuse.

 

The C1259 and C1310 mean that you also have HV ECU and/or battery ECU codes, which you haven't reported here. The one bad module that you know about could be one of them, but the downside of driving for months with codes you've decided you know about is you don't find out what other codes may have been logged during that time. There are definitely some HV and battery ECU codes that will prevent the car from going READY. If you had those codes we would know.

The long beep probably indicates further deterioration of the brake situation indicated by your C1256.

 

u shouldnt expect much with any bad block on the traction bat.
yeah u will have imminent brake failure .. that is the long beep, it will likely happen when u least want it , like far away from home and during a time when u need it the most (ie making a delivery ). that beep is a lack of hydrauling pressure in the breaks .. either your pmup is going or your abs solenoids or somethging is leaking but seems it is slow enough that after5 min your system has enough pressure that the long beep goes away .. be warned: that abs and break pump module is a real pain .. its expensive, its hard to get to and takes a long time and lotta effort to get it out of there .. and yours will need to be taken out very soon ..
added on top of that the weak pack .. 1 bad block that u know of and how many are right behind as soon as u replace that block?
breaks and red triangle of battery pack on a 18 year car .. shocks bad too ? how long will you torture yourself on this daily driver .. i guess it's good if u need an excuse to get out of going to a really crappy job ....

"
Is it the hybrid battery that is causing this? (draining the auxilary?)
Is it the abs actuator ? "

I'm pretty sure it is the abs actuator causing the long beep .. yes that's what happened to me a long sustained beep was the 14 pound module (19 with counterweight) sitting behind and lower than your invertor ..

the hybrid battery beep is 'quieter?' .. and seems to not stay on as long .. mostly the hybrid computer sends the pack cooling fan into turbo high mode which is also very annoying

the low 12v and the weak battery pack .. a vicous circle . .the traction bat tries to charge the 12v .. and prob some kind of leak / ground bad somewher .. do u live in a humid r/ rainy area ?
did u install a trailer light kit ? do u have corrosion --- oh yeas . . i meant have you checked for corrosion by opening the traction battery and inspecting the 1) block voltage sense connector tabs 2) block voltage sense harness 3) block voltage sense pins at a) connection harness female on harness b) connection to harness pins (male) on the ECU (battery) -- AND take the ECU out, take it apart - inside the nice aluminum housing is a simple PCB - inspect - lighct and magnification if needed - u will want to look at where those sense pins go down into the pcb .. the corrosion will often follow the pins all the way onto the pcb and it was recommended to me when i saw that to replace both the Harness AND the ECU !!!

u really need to get a cheap somewhat working Techstream , (ideally a fully functional set up)
techstream on an old 32 bit laptop that at least can read if it cant get th elive values ...
to give u the brake codes that u cant get with a generic/universal code reader ..

 

your new 12v is only reading 11.9?

 

Are you curious enough yet to read the rest of the trouble codes?

 

^Second this.

 

If any door (including the hatch, and possibly even the hood) is "open", which includes one physically closed but with a door switch which has shorted to ground, it will pull a bit over 300mA from the 12V battery. Even if all the cabin lights are turned off. So when checking for parasitic currents all the doors must be electrically "closed" and their open/shut sensor switches working properly. Because the battery is in the trunk it is tempting to stand under the open hatch with a measuring device attached to the battery. Do not do that when looking for a parasitic draw. With all the doors electrically "closed" the car only pulls around 15mA once it settles down (stops running pumps and such.)

 

are you sure it doesn't just need a charge?

 

Anyway, the only codes you have told us about are the ones from the brake ECU that you listed in post #1. Two of those indicate there are also codes in other ECUs, but you have never told us what those other codes are.

Your assumptions about whether they matter or not might be right, or they might not. There are some people here on PriusChat with decent experience interpreting the trouble codes and which ones might matter to your situation, but who can't help without the information to work with.

 

Maybe take the 12v and fully charge it with an external charger, then if you don’t have the equipment, have pep boys or someone do a drawdown test on it and see if you just got a bad battery?

 

sounds like a bad hybrid battery

 

No, the C1259 and C1310 are there because the HV system has reported an issue (the traction battery issue indicated by the P3022). The HV system tells the brake system "hey, don't count on me for regen because my battery's dodgy", and the brake system's C1259 and C1310 codes are its way of saying "roger that, I'm on my own for braking."

C1256 is a problem keeping accumulator pressure up to spec (can be the pump, or internal leakage, anything that prevents pressure from building and holding as it should).

C1202 doesn't have to mean the fluid level is wrong, it can mean the connection to the level sensing switch is broken. In Gen 3, there are some procedures where you're supposed to unplug the level switch; I can't say offhand if there are similar ones in Gen 2. If you forget and leave that switch unplugged, you'll get a C1202.

For that and also the C1203, I would recommend just looking in the Repair Manual to see what their detection conditions are and how to troubleshoot them. I think you'll find those two codes are not "thrown because of the ABS pump".