Dash: Red tri, check engine, yellow (!); Screen: PROBLEM and red square.

Your car has codes in one or more of its control modules. Can't really suggest any course of action until you know what those codes are. The code scanners used by places like AZ may not be able to "talk" to all the modules on a Prius. You might need to find a shop that has a Prius compatible scanner- but it don't hurt to see what AZ finds out.

Another option is to get an inexpensive "mini VCI cable" with a bootleg copy of Techstream software from ebay or amazon and run it on an old windows laptop. This is the diagnostic software used by the dealer and can let you scan codes and data from all the modules on the car.

Hmmm. Rattling only on acceleration MIGHT be a symptom of a slight engine misfire- the codes could give more info. Any idea when the spark plugs were last replaced?

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

As suggested get the codes read. Based on the fan in the back and not having the codes could be the traction battery (main hv battery) having issues.

 

It’s the hybrid battery. The engine rattle is your really have to push the engine hard when the hybrid battery is offline as the battery provides the bulk of power. Your requesting from the car the same get up and go it
Had before the battery failed and all of a sudden your in limp mode and missing half its horse power. The rattle probably engine main bearing.

Check your oil level. Always keep it at the full line.

 

that's a lot of money for old batteries. call around to dealers for new. some are gettin around 2k installed.
if no luck, as the mech how much to put in 'newhybridbatteries.com' $1600. battery.

can you afford a new car?

 

Use the search forums link up top and search

hybrid battery

and there’s hundreds of posts about that battery and best way to go.

there lots of G2 YouTube’s on the battery repair and replace too.

You have a lot of reading to do. Good luck.

 

Don’t use Green Bean many complaints.

 

Which tells me you haven’t read anything I recommended.

 

I've never met a mechanic that wouldn't install an OEM replacement part. That would be really surprising. Maybe what he meant is he wouldn't install an OEM part that you purchased. That would make more sense since many shops won't install user provided parts. It's not uncommon at all and there's good reasons for that.

Since you already found the deal, ask your mechanic how much he would charge for the pack if he bought it and installed it. Since he knows that you know the cost, he might only add a small percentage and it would be worth it if you trust the shop.

IMO, you would be much happier with a new pack than a remanufactured pack if you intend to keep the car.

 

sounds like a good deal and the way to go

when you hit another large expense, you can always sell the battery

 

Your mechanic is doing you a solid at that price. Snap that deal up! I just changed from a 58% functional (no codes) but tired battery to a new battery (NPB) and the difference in power and drivability is major. I'd be surprised if it doesn't put a smile on your face the first time you drive it.

For other suggestions, any scheduled maintenance that you don't think has been done should get done. Little things like plugs can make a difference in smoothness and maybe fuel economy. I wouldn't go crazy, but check the normal stuff like plugs, brakes, air filters (including cabin air filter), throttle body and MAF cleaning, any fluid changes that might be overdue. You know the easy stuff that should be done on a regular basis. Most of the scheduled maintenance stuff is pretty inexpensive, but just make a short list and do them when you can.

 

on top of al that, used cars are going for big bucks. you might actually be getting a bargain compared to what you would have to pay for a similar vehicle