I have yet to put an OBD dongle on this thing....What kind of rpms are these things turning at 60mph? 80mph?
How many RPM do you want? For your 2021 Prime, It can be anywhere between 0 and 5200. My Gen3 has a bit narrower range, 992 to 5200 rpm, at those speeds. While it should be easy to catch your Prime right at 0 rpm, it may be very hard to catch it in between 0 and ~992.
It's everywhere. A Manual which is spot on, will stick at 2100 at 110km/hr. A torque converter auto (without lockup) will fluctuate by 10-15% Expect the PRIUS will go from zero to Redline and back again all the time. Quite hilarious to watch apparently.
2100 in a stick shift? Maybe for a 6 cylinder engine? My first Subaru 4-cyl was forced to a bit over 3000 at that speed (110 kmh or 68 mpjh). Current stick Subaru about 2500. On near-level roads, I think my Gen3 Prius generally swings between 1300 and 1800 at a steady 60 mph, depending on pavement smoothness, actual slope, wind, etc. But RPM necessarily rises with uphill slope angle, and climbs above 4000 on some that I travel. The Prime should be coarsely similar.
Yep - the other thing is that the PRIUS on the matching down-hill will be zero. I think my FOCUS 2.0 Diesel was about 2000 in 6th at 110km/hr. But - that was 9 yrs ago, so can't remember exactly. Yes, the V8s are ticking over at maybe 1600 at that speed - but a long time since I've driven one of them.
Well, his Prime will be doing a nice silent 0 rpm on the same downhills where my non-plugin 2012 Liftback is screaming at 4600 rpm. Oh, the wasted gravitational energy that I must throw away as heat, not collect as battery charge.
1) Check YouTube for videos on the Hybrid Synergy Drive. 2) I believe there's a website with a simulator of the Power Split Device, where you can put in various RPM parameters for the ICE, MG1, MG2 and see the resulting MPH.
variables include: wind grade tire psi load trailer vs non roof rack vs non bag vs non drafting vs non just like any other car, the variables impact the cruising rpm. once the cables are considered, then you can look at how the ice puts energy into road speed through the cvt , which is actually an couple if electric motors. it's going to vary there also
The simulator I had bookmarked used "FLASH" which is no longer supported by Windows. There might be others though. Having this (ENERGY MONITOR) up on the dash gives a good idea why a TACHOMETER would be useless - or hilarious.
I use a scan gauge 2 as a tach. (I also display instant mpg, water temp, and underhood air temp) In most terrains, rpms are basically random, but I live in a perfectly level flood plain called the Mississippi Delta. I can see wind direction, outside temp, and rain amounts variations. But anywhere else, all that is lost to elevation change.
For those of us whose others cars have manual transmissions, none of those other variables affects RPM. Speed and gear choice fix the RPM. They won't affect automatics in locked mode either, but my last automatic was before the lock-up era.
From my scangauge 2 in florida with AC on, RPM at 60 usually runs at 1185 - 1300 and at 80 will typically be 1900-2100. Of course if charging the battery it will be another 100-200 rpm more. Of course any inclines and declines will drastically change RPM. Also if behind a tractor trailer or another car will change RPM amounts also. Running at around 52 will yield the best MPG, averaging 990 or so once the battery topped off ~2 bars from max.
We are talking about RPM on the Prius (a tachometer). I used to drive a manual shift car and I LIKE to know what the car is doing and when. Just because our car doesn't have a tach and doesn't really need one, doesn't mean I don't have to know. The scangauge is a piece of technology that plugs into your obd2 port (diagnostic port) and you can scan and clear codes, in addition to knowing lots of other info (thats probably not needed)
The scangauge II and other OBDII devices can only see information actually on the CAN bus. In a Prius for example, there is no oil pressure gauge possible. The bus only knows 'Has pressure' or. 'Does not have pressure', so the OBDII device can not measure it in PSI However, there are at least 100 items it can measure.
In my experience with a ScanGauge constantly connected to OBD port, I started experiencing "Check Hybrid System" warnings, that "went away" when I disconnected it. Dealership mechanic figured it was too much weight, always shaking the connection. And maybe my knee jostled it. So I packed it in, no further problems.
My experience has been nothing like that. ScanGauge constantly connected in my Gen 1 for 8 years and in my Gen 3 for five years so far. That said, it certainly is possible for something connected at that port to cause communication errors. I had a cheap cable with pins that weren't gold-plated that worked fine when first purchased but later would reliably glitch out the car simply by being plugged in. Replaced with a connector with gold plating and never saw any more of that. I have been temped to buy a short OBD-II extension cable and connect that more or less permanently to the car's connector, maybe with a couple cable ties to reduce motion, and plug my accessories into that. That way, if the contacts in that ever wear or get loose, it can simply be replaced. There is at least one report on here where someone had issues traceable to contacts in the OBD-II connector losing spring tension, corrected by carefully removing them from the housing and re-bending them some.
