Hi everyone. I have determined that my 2012 v Five needs a drivers side half shaft / CV axle. It has a shake when the accelerator is applied (smooth if coasting), worst between 50 and 60 mph. The drivers side inner CV has slop in it. Does anyone have tips for replacement specific to this car? I am wondering, for instance, if it best to separate the lower ball joint fasteners, or the strut. Is either of those locations better for preserving alignment? Any other watchouts or tips? I have plenty of tools and experience doing this kind of stuff. Experience that says there are usually tips and tricks to make a job go easier or harder. Thanks, Mike
From what I saw it looks like no alignment is required because no adjustable steering or suspension parts were touched. I had a hub disassembled once to remove a “foreign object” that was throwing codes. No alignment then or ever. We are talking Toyota, not some plant closing outfit that had to be bailed out ten years ago.
Hah, true. I replaced a front hub on my 2012 v a few years ago and both sides of my old 09 Prius. The v hub is the same part as a Rav4, not a regular Prius. It is easier to replace than a standard Prius (no need to detach the knuckle). The half shaft arrived in the mail today, so I'll tackle it tomorrow. Too bad the car is packed with snow and ice bumper to bumper.
Yeah, I think the only thing that could affect alignment is this bolted connection, but it doesn't seem like it would: two bolts in fairly tight-tolerance holes, next to zero wiggle room.
That was what I was thinking. That is the camber adjustment location on my Yukon XL. Yes, we have a Yukon XL and a Prius (and I have a Rav4 V6 and a few classic cars). Kind of Averages out I guess.
Well, it turns out the strut mount bolts do allow camber adjustment. I am surprised I couldn’t find that info before disassembling my car. Luckily, I can measure Camber very accurately, so I can reset it to what it was before (-0.5 degrees L & R).
I measured it, and the movement allows 0.6 degrees of “adjustment”. Not huge slop, but I still want to get it dialed in. Eccentric kits must be for when a car is further out than that.
Just did the job twice. The video is on point. The hardest point is knocking the drive shaft out. I put the drive in neutral. Then the shafts came out better. I used a pry bar and 4 lb dead weight hammer. Check those seals. Also you can do all of the major fluid changes at this point. Sheesh since you're down there you can do all your suspension too. That video was on point. (X2)
