Testing integrated relay

Put 12vdc on pins 6 & 7 with the part removed from the car. The pin locations are shown on the right side.

 

How will applying + 12 V on two pins of any device without an appropriate negative connection prove anything ?

 

I agree with Sam Spade that merely applying 12V "to 6 and 7" will NOT test the relay. See pics of OP's attachment. First issue is the fact that there are two ("2") terminals identified as 3l-6 (and there are also two ("2") terminals identified as 3l-7). The OP's attachment is merely with respect to testing EFI portion of the Integration Relay (defined below). Further, the testing regimen for the EFI portion of the Integrated Relay requires the following steps: i.) measure resistance between terminals 3K-1 and 3l-8; ii.) if resistance is 10k ohms or higher then move onto next step; iii.) measure resistance between terminals 3K-1 and 3l-8 again; iv.) if resistance is less than 1ohm then apply 12V to terminals 3l-6 and 3l-7; v.) what affect, if any, does application of 12V to terminals 3l-6 and 3l-7 have? Many more pages of tests for the Integration Relay in the Prius manual.

The first set of 3l-6 and 3l-7 terminals are associated with the AM2 circuit (which controls spark ignition and has a separate 15A fuse under-hood - position 9 in the under-hood fusebox). The secondset of 3l-6 and 3l-7 terminals are associated with the EFI circuit (which controls fuel injectionand has a separate 15A fuse under-hood - position 8 in the under-hood fusebox). However, these two separate circuits (namely, AM2 and EFI) are controlled by the same relay (AKA the "Integration Relay"). The same Integration Relay also controls the horn and IGCT circuits.

If I were you I would explain the following: a.) what problems/issues that you are having; b.) what caused you to suspect the Integration Relay; and c.) have you checked under-hood fuses for IGCT, horn, AM2 and EFI before advancing to the Integration Relay?

 

Take the 12v positive to 6 and the negative to 7. The ideal way would use a bench dc power supply. One could use a separate 12v battery. If you use the car's battery, a fuse in the 12v lead is highly recommended for safety.

I will agree that detailing your symptoms and troubleshooting tests so far is useful. Most beginners would not be at this stage of testing even though it is simple for anyone that understands relays.The Toyota procedures assume electrical training in this case.

Actually there are not two sets of terminals labeled six and seven. The drawing is showing a physical view on the right and an electrical schematic on the left. The right shows where the pins are, the left shows how the part functions.

 

Regardless of schematic versus physical representation, I find it difficult to believe that the terminals identified as terminals 3l-6 and 3l-7 for the EFI portion of the Integrated Relay are the same terminals as terminals 3l-6 and 3l-7 for the AM2 portion of the relay. My reasoning is as follows: i.) according to the schematic terminals 3l-6 and 3l-7 for the EFI portion represent the trigger circuit for the EFI portion of the relay; ii.) whereas according to the schematic, terminals 3l-6 and 3l-7 for the AM2 portion respectively represent a 12V power lead from the AM2 fuse and power output from the AM2 section of the relay when it is energized (these two outputs of the AM2 portion of the relay are essentially sourced from fused ignition and output of the AM2 section of the relay after it has been energized).

Let me know your thoughts.

 

Good catch. That also isn't the first time I've noticed that the little wiring diagram excerpts used in diagnostic sections in the Repair Manual are not always up to snuff. I would guess that the people preparing the Repair Manual diagnostics are working from non-finalized versions of the Electrical Wiring Diagram, and also sometimes they might just be working in a rush and making copy-pastos in their figure editor, which looks like what happened here.

The Electrical Wiring Diagram itself seems to go through very thorough vetting and end up reliable; I can't remember noticing any goofs there. In this case the "Engine Room J/B and R/B inner circuit" diagram in the EWD shows the IG2 relay connections as 3I-2 and 3I-3 (coil) and 3I-1 and 3I-4 (contacts).

The EFI M relay in the same diagram has connections 3I-6 and 3I-7 (coil) and 3I-5 and 3I-8 (contacts).

That's why I generally refer to the Repair Manual diagnostic instructions for what stuff they advise me to do, but I double-check what terminals are involved in the real EWD if there's any doubt. Also, in the real EWD you can see wire colors, which usually aren't in the Repair Manual figures, and they can make it a lot easier to be sure you've found the right pins.

 

No mistake or goofs. Note the lines pointing to the respective physical representation on the right. AM2 is not the focus here.

 

I think that you are trying to say that the terminal labels in the upper section of the pic (namely, terminals 3l-6, 3l-7, 3l-8 and 3k-1) are merely labels for the various terminals in the connector which are related to the EFI section of the Integrated Relay. Upon further examination, I agree. I have used a blue markup pen to show the connection of the various connector terminals with the EFI section of the Integrated Relay.

 

No its essential to have the relay energized with the 12v positive and neg as detailed in post six.

The oxygen sensors are another matter and this relay is probably not the issue.

 

Glad you caught on.

 

Snark much?

 

In this case, I think I agree. I'll still suggest referring to the EWD in any case of doubt, because I have seen mistakes and goofs in the Repair Manual excerpts of other diagrams before, and even when there is one that may only be a bit confusingly laid out, like this one, usually finding the same thing shown differently in the EWD will clear it right up.

 

@rjparker is correct. Any good schematic of a relay will show the connector labels AND the internal routing of those connectors.


Or it'll show the internal routing while also having the terminals clearly labeled. Like this very common relay. The internals on the front. Terminals are marked on the bottom.

 

Concerning your o2 codes and the added information that your cats were stolen, I would check the fuses in the circuit. The 60 amp unit is a fusible link. It is often easier to visibly check the 60 amp in circuit rather than pulling it. Voltage checks would be my preferred method to trace the problem. Voltage on the 15 amp means the 60 amp is good.



O2 Sensors