Rattle clunk from front end

1) I have previously posted that Toyota's recommended approach to determine if front struts/rear shocks need to be replaced is to look for significant visible fluid leakage. This results in a high rate of "false negative" outcomes, where bad parts are deemed good.

a) the strut fluid is very thin and will evaporate in high ambient temperatures. I have personal experience of this with my 2004 when the front struts failed while the car was located in southern AZ. One strut was literally bathed in strut fluid, wet from top to bottom. A couple of months later, the strut was bone dry. (The reason for the delay in my doing the replacement work was that I was on an extended business trip at the time.)
b) the true test is to remove the component from the car, take off the spring, and compress the part by hand, comparing the effort required to a new component. Of course, if you go to all that trouble, you'd might as well replace the part regardless of the outcome of the test.
c) these components are sourced from KYB, are not high-quality to begin with, and after 60K miles of service the parts are significantly worn. If you want to keep your car in top shape and can afford to replace the struts/shocks, that should be done at 60K mile intervals.
d) the "push the bumper down" test is guaranteed to provide false negative outcomes. That test is only useful for 60's vintage American cars with very soft springs.

2) No, but this may be due to worn front struts.

3) There is no significant amount of common labor. The work to replace two rear shocks is 2x the work to replace one. If you don't value your time spent going to the dealer 2x vs. one time, then go for it.

 

If Bilstein made struts/shocks for Prius, I would buy them. I do not have experience with Monroe/Gabriel parts.

If the choice is between KYB aftermarket vs. Toyota-branded parts manufactured by KYB, I would say the decision should be based upon whatever you can buy at a lower net price. My personal choice has been to purchase the latter.

 

Just had this same problem on a 2005 with 143k miles. I took it to the dealer because it had an open recall for the steering shaft anyway. I knew this wasn't the problem but I figured I might be able to get a free diagnosis. They replaced the steering shaft assembly (part # 45260-47052 $136.64) and the steering yoke sub assembly (part # 45209-12201$88.55) and only charged me $49 diag and $20 shop supplies because they were already in there doing the recall. It didn't hurt that the advisor is a friend of mine and I have a wholesale account with the dealer for parts. The total for the repair was $294.19 (I am tax exempt).

This completely fixed the problem!

 

I had my intermediate steering shaft no. 2 replaced in the first recall in 2006. Before the second recall, I too started noticing a clunking rattling sound, especially when going over bumps or on a rough road. When Toyota did the second recall, I thought they were finally going to fix the problem. It did not. The clunking, rattling kept getting worse over the years and it started feeling like the steering was loose and drifting as well. I brought the car in several times to have it looked at to no avail. Recently, I was going down a dirt road and it felt like the front end was going to fall off. Finally, I reached under the dash myself and could feel play in the intermediate steering shaft that was supposedly replaced in 2006. I took it into the dealership. They said they examined it, and came back to tell me that indeed the intermediate steering shaft no.2 and the yoke below it needed to be replaced--estimate $548.50. They said the car had too many miles on it since the original recall, and the cost would be mine. I protested to Toyota Customer Care, and they said the same. I finally purchased the intermediate steering shaft no. 2 from Toyota for $180 (I was pretty sure the yoke was OK), and went to replace it myself. What I found when I removed the lower dashboard shocked me--the bolt on the top end of the intermediate steering shaft no. 2 was loose. The head was protruding about 1/8". The steering shaft was fine, but since I had the new one, I replaced it anyway and tightened the bolts well. The result--no more clunk, no more rattle, no more drifting. Pretty scary! I went back to the dealer, and the dealer agreed that the replaced part looked fine, but maintained the bolt had been tightened properly when it was originally replaced under the recall (they claimed there were marks on the part that showed the bolt had been tightened. In other words, they would not own the problem. If the bolt somehow worked itself loose, that is even more scary. I filed a case with NHTSA. I know that I will not return to that dealership for service or to purchase my next vehicle, and the entire episode has made a skeptic out of a previously very loyal Toyota customer. I have been waiting to purchase the next model Prius when it finally comes out. Now I'm going to look around.

 

Francis:

That would really upset me too. The one most important thing to get right and even maybe use lock tite on the bolt threads is the bolts there. If the intermediate shaft breaks loose you have no steering. Guaranteed very bad accident as it would break loose rolling into a corner at speed I bet. Awful.

Post the name of this really bad dealer please.

 

mfa,

This sounds like a wheel bearing. One of my front bearings failed around 60k on my 2005. It had been clunking like you describe for months. I thought it was a CV joint.

Whatever it is it will get worse until you finally figure it out.

 

Taking another one to the dealer for same problem as previous post #26. It fixed the problem last time. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

I was able to have this one fixed for $98.50. They just tightened a few bolts and noise is gone. I will try that myself next time.

 

LOWER CONTROL ARM AND / OR BALL JOINT.

 

sent

 

Hello! I've been through numerous threads on this forum related to my front end rattle / knock which I hear when going over small bumps and feel in the steering wheel. Took a whole day to film parts of my car from different angles and determined from the footage that the ENGINE is what's shaking and making this noise. Potentially an engine mount? Would be the driver's side mount underneath the inverter. I don't know if this was part of a recall, will probably eventually contact Toyota and see if repair was done on my vehicle (purchased 2019).

Anyway, I compiled a video of the various useful footage. You can see the struts and all the various steering components, the intermediary shaft (one bolt was loose on my lower linkage and tightening did seem to make the steering wheel feel a bit better. I even took the rubber boot off the rack and pinion to check the bolt in the engine bay. ). If you're having this issue perhaps this post will help you with the diagnosis! And if anyone with more knowledge of these cars than myself can tell from my footage exactly what's wrong--and if the issue is worth repairing at 205K miles, what it might cost, etc--I and others will be appreciative as well! Posting this in a few of the more prominent threads so that it can be found for that person whom it will benefit.

 

I have a Gen3 clunk that was fixed with tightening the steering wheel shaft. Before that though, I did some research and replaced the swaybar bushings and endlinks. Sounds like you are well read on the topic though.

I am curious about your camera setup. What camera/mount did you use to take that footage? It's very useful and helps immensely for diagnosis. Thanks.

Slack in steering column (rattling noise) | PriusChat

 

Thanks for the reply! The camera setup was fairly simple, a cheap knock-off action camera with image stabilization (Apeman A90, 89 or something I believe) and largely one of those suction cup action camera mounts. I really should have made a magnet mount to attach to the control arms etc, I used a clip to hold a quick clip to it...pretty dicey but needed that footage!

Inexpensive USB endoscope finally arrived from China, and yes, that engine mount appears to be damaged, will research how to replace and update if that's the fix