Max amp size

600 watts RMS is about 840 peak. With efficiency losses, that is pushing the 12v system pretty hard. There is a 100 amp fuse in there (I think it is 100).

 

I'm currently running 8,000 watts on 4 subwoofers with 3 12v batteries, my goal is too reach around a total of 10,000... so if I can run that no problem u most definitely shouldnt have to worry

 

The 3 batteries are paralleled with the car 12v battery? As a load, 8kw is around 850 amps taking into account the losses. Can you give us some details on the wiring?

 

Yes the batteries are wired in parallel. with a volt meter to monitor the voltage

• the stock battery was replaced with a agm Xs Power D5100 60AH max amps - 3100,
• 2nd battery is agm Xs Power D2400 70AH M.A.- 3500.
• the last is a brand new lithium Limitless 22AH . (2 months old)

I've been running my system for about a year and a half with just the 2 Xs Power battery. wires are all OFC 0 gauge 2 runs from the from the inverter to the batteies 4 Crescendo Bc2000D each amp is 2k rms. and from time to time i put my car on a home charger depending on how hard ive been playing but the car stock charging system still able to charge the batteries fine.
I'm just waiting on learning how to make a custom door panels so i can upgrade the mids and highs...

people ask me why i tell them why not.
this is not my first hybrid system. I've had a 2002 prius with only 4k at that time. which was literally ripping the car apart..

 

I have found that serious hobbies make us just a little crazy. An impressive set-up.

 

Was told as long as you do not pull more then 150 amps, which is what the inverter is rated at, you should be ok. I been running a JL Audio HD900/5 for going on seven years now, and never had any issues.

The little 12v battery will not last long trying to run a system. Just run your system with the car in "ready" mode, then the inverter takes care of everything.

 

I need guidance please.

Finally finished my 1st car audio install and loved hear wife complain that I was rattling dishes inside our house. That little amp and 2 Subs surpassed all of my expectations and beyond. I drove around for about 30 minutes with base slamming wow grinning from ear-to-ear and then subs quit.

I pulled into O'Reilly Auto Parts parking lot that was 1/4 mile nearby put my hand on the amp expecting it to be overheated and it was not even warm. The blue Power indicator light was off.

I then checked the 60w power fuse from amp kit mounted near battery and it was perfectly fine.
I then checked interior and exterior fuses. Did not find any fuses blown there either but there are a lot of fuses and I did not pull every single fuse.

Got back in the car pressed start button and got key lock code transmission warning seed dealership flashing Triangle exclamation with check engine light.
O'Reilly's salesman came out and performed a battery diagnostic. 325 cold cranking amps on OEM battery tested good but read "needed to be charged up."

By the way O'Reilly's refused to use their jump pack to help me out because they consider jumping off hybrid vehicles to be a liability.

After maybe 45 minutes to an hour of not being able to start Prius finally starts back up. P lock code goes away but while driving home messages say bring vehicle to dealership still maintain check engine light exclamation in yellow triangle.

Car is running fine now but amp light does not turn on and I do not want to damage my vehicle.

A few guys have suggested that I install a separate secondary battery to help power the 600 watts being pulled from Amp.

I'm reading so much conflicting advice that I'm close to throwing in the towel and putting in a pro shop but hate to give up being so close to a complete install done on my own.

Any advice or links are very much appreciated.

2013 Toyota Prius 2
I retained the stock OEM Panasonic CD Player and used an X Scorpion LCO12.2R Line out converter with auto remote amp turn on.

✔️1x PowerBass XL-605DM Monoblock Power Sport Amplifier 600 Watt High Efficiency Class D Design 1-OHM Stable Mono Block Specifications: (VERY SMALL SIZE/FOOTPRINT) Height: 1.63" Width: 4.5" Depth: 8.4"
Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 250 watts x 1
Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 400 watts x 1
✔️Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 600 watts x 1 Channels (mono): 1


&


✔️2x Memphis 10" 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers Wired up like this.

✔️1x QPower Dual 10-Inch Vented Box

Also Installed
Front Doors ✔️2x 6"x9" 3-way 150 watts RMS speakers. Rear Doors ✔️2x Kicker 41KSC654 6.5" 2-Way 100 watts RMS
GTMAT Pro 50mil Sound Deadener Material. 4 Door Kit Package Includes:24sqft Four Door Kit. 8 sheets of 12"x36" (I later helped a friend soumd dampen his truck. He bought the NVX brand and it is better in quality and easier to work with.)

 

I did the JL 900-5 amp also powering a JL 10w6 and Focals in all the doors with an Auddision controlling a lot of it. Very happy with it for what it is.

 

I see alot of people hookin up there inline power to top of battery in prius. Hell nah, I finally found the shunt side of battery where it connects to the inverter below the fuse. Thank god I did my research on that. Just dont understand why crutchfield would recommend not goin over 30A amp which I think is b.s. Btw you hv the setup I dream of putting in my 2010 prius. How much hushmat did you fill your prius w??

 

think im going for something safe for my 2006 prius. 500RMS should be fine. Anyone knows where to connect the remote wire coming out of the power amp. No idea where to connect it to. Need it so that the power amp turns off when i switch off the car

 

Yes because of the protection it has. Forget how much. Like about 150a. Last step i want to add is an jl audio 500/1 @50a to push a p3d2 in 3rd gen.

 

Mine is in an aftermarket stereo to blue wire. Easy peasy. Everything always easier after putting an aftermarket stereo in w rca jacks.

 

A jl audio 500/1 amp should be enough for jl w6 10" w bx??

 

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