Dealership charging me $3800 + tax to replace a bad actuator on my 07. Is the repair worth it?

Um, no, I wrote "once that power fails", and the antecedent of that was "box of capacitors in back next to the 12 volt battery, just to supply emergency power to the brakes".

Because of the way Gen 2 brakes work (and this is different from both Gen 1 before it and Gen 3 after it), if the electrical power fails you are without power assist even if there is still some pressure in the accumulator. That's why Gen 2, and only Gen 2, has that extra box of capacitors in back.

As for the actuator failing, it's worth keeping in mind that it's a complicated box with around a dozen different valves in it, half a dozen pressure sensors and (in Gen 2) even the accumulator and pump integrated into it. That means there isn't much sense in just talking about "the actuator failing"; there are dozens of different ways it might fail, and what each different way of failing would do to your braking experience would have to be pieced together by squinting at the diagrams in the New Car Features manual (more info).

 

It's easier to tell fluid condition with a test strip.

Mine at 145,000:



Earlier reported test at 110,000 by hobbit:



The fluid in the reservoir isn't where you would usually test, because a brake system doesn't really circulate: the lines out to the brakes at the four wheels are dead ends, and the fluid is stuck there. It might be better to crack one of the bleed screws open and let out enough to dip a strip in (while not letting any air in), because that's how you'll be testing the fluid that's in the brake and exposed to the greatest heat.

On the other hand, the fluid in the reservoir has been circulating through the accumulator and pump and portions of the actuator, so maybe it does tell you something about the conditions there.

 

Perhaps hold off on changing the fluid until you actually replace the accumulator as it's easier to get all that work at once and your situation isn't going to change much with new fluid.

 

The fluid looks ok on the photo. Maybe it has been changed at least once since car was new. I usually change the brake fluid myself using Techstream every 30k mi. On the hybrids that have an expensive regenerative brake system it’s a good insurance.

 

Just popping in didn't read previous comments....But....the time to replace is when it kicks on the ABS/VSC/Brake light and has brake actuator codes....Is this the case?

Reason so high is because part is really expensive OEM new.

You can go to car-part.com and select ABS pump and pick the first one (they all fit the same way --- try to get the 2009 updated version but not big deal getting older one).

You'll sometimes find them for $250 used....usually more like $300..

My mechanic does it in 2 hours so I'm assuming not a very labor-intensive job....You should be able to knock the job out for about $600-$700 I would imagine.

And from my experience doing about 7 of these --- we only have changed them when we get the brake actuator codes on scanner.

 

This is not how it happens.

If you ignore it you'll stop just fine but you'll have lights on the dash....Eventually (I've driven one with a very bad actuator once) the pedal will be very stiff....It will still stop and you can still do an emergency drive or 2...You just have to be a little more cautious and give yourself time to stop because the pedal is stiff....still will stop, just not the way it was intended to lol.

To clarify, I've driven around 10 with bad actuators and actuator codes: ZERO DIFFERENCE! Stops just fine and dandy....I guess you can say I did an experiment and kept driving one until it got really bad. That one eventually got a very stiff pedal and I was no longer comfortable driving it.

No brakes (when they go all the way to the floor) is a much more terrifying drive vs. the stiff pedal bad actuator. Which again, gradually worsens (which you would be prepared and expect as you'd have tons of lights on the dash). It doesn't just explode out of nowhere when you are on the freeway.

 

Hey @CarOwner -- did you ever resolve the actuator problem? I have the same problem, and it appears you researched it quite a bit so am curious to know how it turned out.

 

I went ahead and got a used actuator from enet auto parts for $265. I installed the part following steps in the factory service manual and it went pretty well except that I misplaced one of the nuts (12mm wrench size nut with a free spinning captive washer) that is used to fasten the gusset in place. I am not able to find the part number for it -- does anybody know what the part number is (see pics)

BC_212 by ViH posted Apr 7, 2021 at 10:44 PM

IMG_0815 by ViH posted Apr 7, 2021 at 10:44 PM

IMG_0814 by ViH posted Apr 7, 2021 at 10:44 PM

 

I was able to find the part number with the help of the parts guy at a dealership. In case anybody else is looking, it is 90182-08008 ($2.01). Two nuts and a bolt (91635-80820) are required. It had to be special ordered and takes a week so I substituted an M8x1.25 (coarse) flange nut and washer that I got from the local hardware store. Downside is that the substitute requires a 13mm wrench (original needs a 12mm wrench).

 

The brake actuators had a recall a few years ago, but only if it throws a code. Mine failed but never threw a code, so it never qualified for the recall. See post: Brake actuator "warranty extension" from Toyota | PriusChat

 

I put a used one in and so far lasted a couple years. I did get a code but the dash lights did not come back from last time. I payed a few hundred at a mom and pop shop and bought my actuator off eBay. I am not sure how much new ones run but If you can afford it go ahead. he used ones will probably go bad as I don't recommend getting it done at the stealership. There are plenty of small places that work on hybrids