I bought this Prius w/ a LOT of known problems, so I could learn a LOT, & fix other cars. I just need some time (while on road trip) If I'm at a stop light (not moving), there's an ICE surge & the hybrid system drops off. I'm looking to go straight to it. ComboCode to ForceICE & NOT use hybrid; I'm buying a used inverter (mine is overheating & creating BS of getting past 15 mph, then 35 mph then 45, then 70)- had been just 45 then 70. & inverter pump & Coolant Flow Control Valve 3-Way while I'm that far in. Thanks folks! PS I just survived getting this poor thing out of the I-75 mountain ranges, heading from OH to NC. ICE starts slow, but allows gentle momentum builds; Hybrid is mandatory for steep hill crawls. Running on ICE for a longer run trigger BRAKE warnings. There's reasons this ex-farmer took a (lot) of physics while studying engineering & traditional martial arts! =) Also: before I replaced the 12 v battery, the amount of 12v disconnects I had to do to clear codes got to the point where I bought a Heavy Duty Battery Disconnect Knob Type Kill Switch for Car/RVs rated for 125/500 Amps (I'll post the Amazon link a bit later)
You can clear codes with the push of a button on your phone if you use Dr. Prius app via one of these devices: Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus And you can run the engine in maintenance mode for diagnostics like compression testing, but you can't over-ride the system and just run the gas engine with enough power to drive the car normally because the car depends on both gas and electric at the same time and once a failure is detected it goes into limp mode. The car will go into limp mode to protect it from further damage and then you can disconnect 12v or clear codes via Dr. Prius app and keep going, but not for long... And the reason you have all these problems is specific to error codes and hybrid subcodes. We can help you if you can tell us those codes. But I'm concerned you've been clearing codes so much you may have done some damage.
I'm curious as to why you want to install a replacement inverter instead of just fixing the cooling problem. (which is likely to be just a failed inverter cooling water pump, located directly behind the driver headlight)
The pump had turbulence through it; then I started having some electrical smoke (when accelerating at low speed) come into the cabin. Happened enough sporadic times that the inverter is suspect. But no lingering electrical smoke smell under the hood (???) A month ago, I made the mistake of buying a few cheaper OBD2 code readers that are sub-spec. Then that dropped off my to-do list -opps! I was going to use Torque pro.... is Dr. Prius the preference in this forum?
Toyota Techstream on an old Windows laptop is the preference, but Dr. Prius is easier to use when you're out driving and something comes up. It can read the hybrid battery subcodes, as well as give you lots of real time information about how the hybrid system is doing. Torque's PIDs for Prius are clumsy and outdated. And most handheld OBD2 readers that people buy on the cheap often don't give the correct codes due to outdated libraries in the reader itself. Lastly, summer before last I was smelling smoke and error codes had me convinced I had a bad inverter... Turns out it wasn't the inverter but a loose connection in the hybrid battery pack that was smoking.
Any suggestions on the lower cost OBD2 readers ? Oooo! A loose connection would be (love). BUT you didn't (see) smoke rolling into the cabin under the dash & thru the speedometer area....Hmm... Following the Axiom (Murphy was an optimist) to the Law... I snagged the junkyard inverter, pump & Coolant Flow Control Valve 3-Way (from a 2008 for my 2005). I almost grabbed one from a used parts warehouse- until I saw a HAND-big hole in the case (website only had 1 pic & guess which side it was NOT...), from a crash.... No thankyou! In my original pump/inverter, I still have ~ moderate turbulence when I open the cap. My 0-60 isn't measured in seconds (yet) LMao.... I sat for 4 hrs w/ my laptop in a hotel lobby trying to make SURE I was choosing the LOWEST road grade(s) route. After a LOT of dead end crap, here's the best site I found for RV's... & low HP Prius(es)! flattestroute com/Charlotte-to-Myrtle-Beach flattestroute com/Charlotte-to-Myrtle-Beach-via-Columbia A (lot) of emergency flashers & it's always fun to be driving while the sun comes up, esp. when you get fog being burned off by the sun... Slowest was 42 mph, (except a 25 mph hill prob over 6% grade) w/ 60-75 mph the norm. Yep, the more modern I-# interstates, the better the road grade(s)! ( Flattest route / flattest roads / low elevations / best RV routes / RV GPS app ) Will I have to pay a toll to drive on I-77? No. You can choose to pay tolls to drive on the express lanes, drive at no cost on the existing, general purpose lanes, or see below options for toll-free travel in the express lanes. ncquickpass com/nc-quickpass-help/Pages/i-77-express-lanes.aspx I drove 90 min & 90 min w/o the BRAKE warning popping up & a happy (but slow acceleration) Prius. I made a fair # of stops for spots that interested me WITHOUT turning the car off. It's still saying 32-35 mpg, BTW. Even though I bought this in the hopes of 50-60 for this 2005 model year (wry chuckle) Synopsis: I'm doing the test driving from hell, pushing the envelope that Toyota feared anyone would run... esp. stereotypical stubborn farmers that occasionally .... "gently"....encourage a square peg thru a round hole...
BTW, which groups have been tinkering w/ Prius computer code mods ? (while I'm waiting for the above post to be approved) =)
I've been using Carista OBD2 reader, which works well... And as I've said before, the fact you're so determined to keep driving the car even though it barely drives means you are destroying rather than repairing your vehicle. And alss as I've said before, we don't know the error codes so we can't tell you how quickly you will destroy your car. As for smoke, it smelled like it was coming from the inverter. I was certain. But I was wrong, it was coming from the pack.
Pulled the codes at Autozone; 4 centered around low hybrid battery. I got MicroMechanic (1 of the 2 cheapies I have with me) to attach to Torque (& clear codes) but Dr. Prius doesn't see it. Drove (let fault trigger goto ICE ice only) from SC to FL for a cheap 200v battery; Got to last 60 miles, stopped for cash & wouldn't restart. AAA for the last hop! Car was restart-able a few hrs later. New rebuilt 200V & Poof, most problems disappeared; inc VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) &alleged tire pressure off. While doing the switchout, I saw a group of ~10 wires had been cut & black taped. This may explain no cruise control (!) Time to find a wiring diagram for in the battery! Car now handles mountains (for interstates) w/ ease- ran up to PA, from FL; next time going thru DC regardless of traffic!