Engine Swap Gen III - Help & Advice

did you find a manual on how to remove the engine? i read somewhere that on some later models they come out through the front rather than the top, but i can't find it.

 

Anyone have trouble with the Hybrid system after replacing the engine?

 

I know this is an old thread and I hate reviving stuff like this... but found it while searching and I must say that I can't stand people like this - come to the forum, ask questions and gets great friendly advice, but never provides follow up of what worked and what didn't so that others who are in the same boat (or may be eventually) will know. Only think about themselves like much of today's society.

I hope the next time he needs help, no one will provide him the advice he needs!

 

I'd think more of your expectations and not have such high expectations. Where is your detailed write up? Just be thankful for those that do share, support and serve the open source community.

Reads like @Algo Trader didn't have any issues. However, what is referenced by him as the Transaxle Damper is what @Deadeye914 is referring to as the Clutch Pack.

In regards to:

Have to watch some videos and read around unless someone is so kind to detail. I mean, there are reasons why people earn an income and are apprehensive to freely share services and procedures. Again, be thankful for those that do... I know I am and that is why I share when I remember to.

 

2010 Prius with 240k on it blew the gas engine, mechanic replaced with 88 k engine, now it will not start says the computer needs to be reset at dealer, anyhelp out there?

 

Are there any error codes? Via scanner or on dash?

 

Does he mean the codes need to be reset? Does his code reader not have access to the hybrid system?

 

I replaced our Gen III with a Gen IV engine and didn't have any issue with it until she had an off road excursion and the cable barrier won.

 

What mounting points did you use for the engine hoist?

 

I don’t really remember to well now. it’s been almost 100k since first posted. I think there were a couple eye hooks on top of engine if I remember correctly and we used the back of the exhaust manifold to balance the back of engine to the eye bolt in the front. Pretty obvious lift points as I recall.
Going off memory we had to remove the windshield wipers and plastic cover underneath. The egr cooler . The engine mounts. The radiator hoses. Exhaust on back side. Wiring harness, and bolts to continuously variable transmission. Sorry if I missed somthing. Going off memory. Junk yard engine has been burning oil since day 1 so disappointed. Checked oil level every fill up have about 100k on it now 200k on car. Recently engine has been running rough sometimes for short periods of time at start up then fine. Driving few days ago and it felt like it shuttered hard and brakes at same time . All lights came on and haven’t turned off.few days now. Seams like some people online think maybe the 12v battery’s which I have never replaced . But little worried that the junk yard engine or the ?clutch plate? Transmission dappener? Is the problem idk cars getting old . Good luck on your engine swap. Also pull battery main plug in trunk of car before messing with wiring harness

 

Thats how mine started at 141k, shuttering at ICE start maybe once every 4-500 miles, then it got worse to where it would happen at stop lights, noticed coolant tank low, bore scoped the cylinder, piston top was wet, so blown head gasket, other pistons had burning spots where pre-ignition was going on - so the old clogged egr trick did it in. Oil consumption went up, and started to make some chocolate milk on the dip stick = needs a new motor. On my old gen 2 it had a shuttering when trying to move on electric only and eventually the MG quite spinning, did a trans swap and fixed it.