I had the hybrid warning come on a few months ago. Pulled the plug and fuse, drove a few weeks with no issues. Happened again, repeat two more times. So I finally decided to get it looked at. I have codes P0A80 and c1259 and c1310. Pretty sure I need to replace the hybrid battery. I plan on doing the 12v also. Just curious if the C codes are related to the bad hybrid battery and all the warning lights being on. Or should I be concerned about something else? And would it make sense to replace the 12v first and pull the plug and fuse one more time, or should I just change the hybrid battery also? Thanks for your help.
Yes. The P0A80 is a code from the battery ECU reporting a primary issue. The C1259 and C1310 are codes from the brake/skid ECU that mean "hey, did you know there's a code reporting a primary issue in the hybrid system?".
I had these exact codes not long ago. I replaced both my rear wheel hubs. I assumed since it had one OEM and one aftermarket one that they needed to be changed after 10 years anyway. That did the trick for me but had to replace one bad module before it was good again. Passed smog after that even with the permanent hybrid code still there. So tackle the speed sensor and if your car has been in an accident on any corner chances are it is that speed sensor. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I’m gonna start with the hybrid battery first since obviously it is going bad. Too fast of charging, too quick of discharge. Not as good mpg. I don’t believe my speed sensor or wheel bearings are having any affect on the codes. I have replaced two whee bearings already. I believe it is the hybrid battery triggering the C codes. Just trying to verify that.
Once again, P0A80 is a code set by the battery ECU, indicating the modules in the battery are too far apart in voltage and the battery is ready to go to pasture. The power management control ECU knows that code is present, and sends two 'malfunction' messages to the brake/skid ECU so it will know it has to handle braking without relying on the hybrid system. The brake/skid ECU sets the C1259 and C1310 codes to confirm that it received those messages and knows about the problem being announced by the power management control ECU. None of those codes would implicate any wheel speed sensor. On the other hand, if you happened to muck with some speed sensors and replace a bad module in the same flurry of work, and at the end of the work the codes were gone, and you were averse to reading the manual, you might end up thinking there was a connection there that wasn't.
Exactly the kind of knowledge I was looking for. Thanks so much. I figured those codes were a result of the bad hybrid battery. Time to get a new hybrid battery.
Got the new hybrid battery installed yesterday. Everything seems good again. Went with greenbean for the battery and they were able to come within 24 hours. I’m sure there are tons of other options, but this seemed like the most-convenient choice for me. I’ll update this thread if I have any issues within the year.
Congratulations ! Please check back from time to time. W'd love to know how the green bean is holding up. The 2012 C is still new (for a prius) and only a few* of us have needed to replace our traction battery. Hopefully we can pay it forward and have a vibrant sub forum for years to come. -Rob *(I Replaced mine in 2018 )
Yeah greenbean seemed like the best choice with the lifetime warranty. I hope to keep the car another 3-6 years if possible. I’ve got 157,000 miles on it right now. Everything seems to be working right now. The battery level isn’t constantly fluctuating. The guy who installed it was good. My mechanic let him do it inside their service bay. It was an overall good experience so far. The installer did send me a message after install asking me to give a positive review for him on google and mentioning him by name as they get a $25 bonus for that. Which makes sense why you see so many reviews on there. The only issue I could have with them now is if they go out of business or don’t honor the warranty for some reason? But I have high hopes. It’s nice to have the car running again. And it’s kind of assuring that the worst that might happen is I need to get a hotel somewhere out of town for the night as I wait for them to come replace the battery the next day. I’m curious now if having a new hybrid battery will eliminate some of the abs traction lights that would sometimes come on when hitting a big bump. It doesn’t seem to be doing that at the moment anymore....hmm
So it’s been 3 months or so since I got my battery replaced my Green Bean. Everything has been great with the car since the replacement. The battery meter seems to stay about 1/2 bars below full charge at all times. Everything seems to be running great. Just wanted to update for those curious about green bean batteries. I highly recommend them if you need a battery.
It looks like this post is a year old but I'm intrigued because I have the same codes and have just replaced the hybrid battery pack with a brand new one and still have the codes C1259 and C1310 and it started shortly after running into a curb so hard that I had to replace both tires on one side. But now that I read your post again, it may be the replaced bad module that cleared the codes, and not the rear wheel hubs. Can somebody knowledgeable who might be reading this confirm that replacing the rear hubs could/could not possibly have cleared codes C1259 and C1310?
Change both rear hubs and you will be good to go. I bought cheap ones from Amazon I believe or Ebay. No issues at all with those codes again. The pack you have now will slowly degrade until then. Those two codes will prevent charging the HV battery. http://www.RedBullet.net https://ProjectLithium.com/?ref=mG0GE http://www.Pulstar.com http://www.PlugOutPower.com Use code 7373 http://www.hybridpit.com Use code azusa http://CatStrap.net Use code azusa
You can look at post #7 and see from the car's Repair Manual exactly what the codes C1259 and C1310 do (and don't) mean.
@Bond_007 You may also still need to change the front passenger sensor. But I would say still change both rear hubs since they are old and why have two different hubs like I did, so change both.
The manual is also an excellent place to learn which trouble codes do indicate any issue with wheel speed sensors or bearings, in case in the future you ever see any of those.
