Hybrid battery balancing

Hmmm! Chinese stuff? Well some of them seems to be great.

 

Is this solution available to the general public, or might it be in the future?

 

Available now: ProlongPro Thunderbolt – Complete Package | Hybrid Automotive

 

How did your battery restoration go with the EV—Peak chargers? How long did the batteries last?

 

You seem like you just want to tell people they are wrong and you are right without any experience. If I put a dead AAA battery with a new AAA battery in my device, it will work. True it will not last as long, but you said yourself in your example of an 11yr old vehicle. A dumb person puts $3000 into an 11 yr old car that is losing value daily. If they are driving an 11yr old car, maybe you can use your large intelligence to figure perhaps they can not afford $3000. Spending a few hundred dollars may be all they can afford. Its no dumber than someone spending $400 on brand new snow tires hoping their 11yr old car will make it through winter w/o something else going wrong. We would not fault someone for doing that. You just like arguing and being right even if wrong. In school we called you know it all bullies.

 

Providing data and an alternate point of view is not being third grade, it is being informative. In fact, some who argue otherwise are likely to be the unreasonably argumentative parties. Jadziasman and many others know the trade offs between a three to twelve month battery patch and a seven to ten year repair. Adding context and options is a good thing, especially when new aftermarket batteries are available diy for $1600 and new Toyota packs can be purchased for $2k installed in some locations.

 

I must be a dumb person.

2006 Prius worth: $1,200 KBB
I'm putting in:
$1,600 OEM catalytic converter
$1,800 OEM hybrid battery
$200 OEM front left wheel bearing
$200 OEM 12V battery

The thing is that I can drive the car now before fixing these things, albeit some should be replaced sooner than later or the car won't be driveable.

But it's still a way to afford a decent car without having credit or being attached to a loan or saving up for a newer car, especially if you like working on cars. And after I've put some $3,000 into this car it will have a lot of new stuff that's not going to die in the next 10 years or so, unlike a $3,000 car.

I think anyway you look at it, a car is NOT an investment.

 

Exactly. I was not saying it, I was quoting Original Poster. I am in the same boat. I have just crashed my 2005 Prius and putting money into it when it was bought with a rough body already and 259,000 miles. It has 276,000 now. It is not worth it. However, I am buying another 2005 Prius with a dead HV battery block 7 code. The body is excellent and the interior is well kept. It only has 147,000 miles. People would say “just buy a newer car for $3,200.” I would rather put my used battery in this used Prius then buy any other vehicle that is newer. This used Prius will rust away before the battery gets replaced with a new one. I do not want to have car payments and mandatory full coverage insurance and maintenance cost and repairs too. I will sink my $3200 into the used 15 yr old Prius

 

You still assume those are affordable for everyone. Why do some of you act like its a choice that is being made instead of realizing that poor people want to drive reliable cars more than those who can afford new ones. $1,600 is not an affordable repair for most people in the working class. A $600 two year fix is affordable.

 

I feel ya, brother. During my younger years, I went about six months eating ramen noodles three times a day and taking a daily multi-vitamin. Too many people forget what it's like, or have never known what it's like, to not even have 2 nickels to rub together. There's tough choices that have to be made, and a $1600-$2000 battery doesn't fit that bill.

 

No, but comprehending what I am saying must be difficult. I will try again.

Who is being unreasonable?

 

TMR-JWAP or any one else, I am currently trying to refurbish the battery in my 2010 Camry. I understand the module is the same as the prius, so what my confusion is, some vary knowledgeable guys have encouraged fast discharge and said that the slow and a certain amount of over charge will bring a low cell up to the full cells. Then today on Battery University it claimed that it is the slow discharge that overcomes the "memory". So what I have noticed in my cycles. the first of second cycle will be the highest, and they progressively get smaller out to the 5th cycle. ie 1. 4300 mah d, 4600 c, 2 2300 d 2500c 3. 900d 500c ....
Any thoughts?

 

For anyone who got this far in this old thread, I completed a battery repair last month and wrote it up as a wiki:Prius High Voltage Battery Reconditioning | PriusChat

 

There can be several things happening. The first thing to keep in mind is that Camry modules live a hard life. I don't know the exact reasons, whether it be the size of the car, software control, temperature control or whatever, but Camry modules tend to get beaten down and are typically less likely to be fully recoverable (based on my experience with about a dozen Camry battery packs).

When you performed your cycles, did you do a discharge first, then charge, to see how much energy was in the module in the 'as removed from the car' condition?

Also keep in mind, a theoretically perfect module can only discharge what was charged into it. Most modules will discharge 80-95% of what was charged.

I've seen similar cycle results a few times. It's typically because the module is bad, or the charge isn't going to true completion. Just off the top of my head, it could be

1. the module is bad
2. lack of cooling during the cycling
3. a wire connection problem
4. the charger stopping 'the charge' on false triggers, thinking the charge is complete
5. charger setpoints

 

I am using the Prophet Sport Quad Pro chargers, some of the modules I think are good, based on one good reading, out 10 tries, so 4. and 5. seem to me are more likely as I am experiencing the same issues in some of the 9 Prius modules I have bought for replacement parts.
Can you share optimum setpoints? It seems on this charger the manual setpoints have to be on best settings for the automatic runs to use. I have the ability to set d-c or c-d, c rate from .1a to 5a, d rate from 2a to .1, rest time 1-15 min. etc.

 

Ok RJ have a nice life

 

Ok RJ have a good life.

 

See that Wiki page link I posted for my settings. On there is also the link the battery reconditioning summary page that has a lot of useful stats and opinions.

 

As stated there are lots of different opinions as to what settings to use- many of them "work" so pick one and go with it. For me I used a D - C cycle, 1.5A discharge to 7.0V, and a 7500mAh charge at 2A, delta V disabled (doing this usually meant that I had to manually reset the charger for each cycle as most would throw a error at the end of charging). If capacity didn't go up then I went lower for the successive discharge cycles- 6.5V, 6.0V, and 5.0V(with the last going up to 7800mAh charge).

All modules were clamped in the pack frame and continuously cooled with air blown through the pack via a small 120V box fan hooked to the outlet duct.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I've read that Delta Charging doesn't reliably work anyway below 1C charging. I used CHG limit =7250ma, no time limit (the current limit catches the charge...), DSC = 6.0v , DSC current = whatever max your unit will take. Mine stupidly only could do 1A, even though it promised 3A. CHG current = 2.5A. I did 3 cycles, or until I saw a DSC cycle MA number that was high enough to call it 'done'. If your charger doesn't support seeing the values of the DSC and CHG cycle final numbers, consider using a Wyze $20 Wifi cam so you can follow along, receive beep alerts and rewind the tape to see what was happening 'earlier' in the process...