Getting close to 120k miles for spark plug change, too many choices...

On right driver side yes it is possible to change plugs without wipers off. Be sure to buy non-counterfeit plugs. Do a search and you’ll read the nightmare stories on here.

 

Yeah I tried: disconnected the coil, pulled it off, lifted up and boink.

 

From the Owner's Manual, worth including:

Denso SC20HR11

Except, Toyota has revised the above, to a the slightly hotter:

Denso SC16HR11

Purchase from local dealership, or reputable local automotive store (likely cheaper), is the safest bet for avoiding counterfeits.

Attached is some Repair Manual info, stuff that really should be in Owner's Manual. Worth noting: the last page, with torque value (with clean/dry threads), was in another section of the manual; not exactly the best presentation.

If you do use anti-seize on the threads, I'd be inclined to use it very sparingly. Maybe brush on a thin coat with an old toothbrush, then wipe it clean with a shop towel, presuming a trace will remain. And reduce torque 25%, maybe. Or just stick with clean/dry threads.

 

SC16HR11(Toyota part #: 90919-01275) is what dealership now selling instead of SC20HR11(Toyota part #: 90919-01253)..
I bought my from local dealership online parts store to receive online discount and picked up in a day...
$9.42 each is what I paid for them...

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"Ruthenium is a chemical element with the symbol Ru and atomic number 44. It is a rare transition metal belonging to the platinum group of the periodic table. Like the other metals of the platinum group, ruthenium is inert to most other chemicals."

 

I just got mine from Advance Auto Parts. They have a couple 25% off coupons going right now, and it seemed to be the cheapest option for me right now. You might also be able to find a good price from your dealership, or maybe even online from one of those dealerships that sells parts online and ships.

I wouldn't specifically say to avoid eBay, but I would make sure the seller is someone reputable -- maybe a dealership or an otherwise known/well-known store/merchant/retailer.

I did a quick search online before I bought, and the NGK 4912 laser iridium seemed to be very recommended, so that's what I bought. do not know if that helps you.

 

Hey, it's possible . Probable? No, but it is possible.

 

I bought NGK 4912 from Rockauto after a bad set of alleged Denso plugs bought locally.

 

Seems weird, but I also would trust RockAuto.com more than a local store for real vs. fake spark plugs. And Real vs. Fake is the thing I'd be most concerned with. I'd get the currently spec'ed (by Toyota) Denso plugs from RockAuto.com and worry about other stuff.

RockAuto probably has the knowledge and ability to detect fakes, as well as the power to destroy bad suppliers. Amazon does too, but it's just not their style to care that much. The local stores less so, and the local stores are also susceptible to people returning fake plugs to them (e.g., person buys fake plugs on eBay, realizes it, buys real ones at PepBoys, then decides to return the eBay ones to PepBoys, and then the next unsuspecting guy buys them).

On the Ruthenium, here's something I wrote on a different forum on this topic back in Feb (so prices may have changed):

"I first noticed the Ruthenium a year or so ago. As far as I can tell it is just another precious metal with very similar physical properties to Platinum and Iridium.

Biggest difference though is ... PRICE

Current prices in US dollars per ounce:
Platinum: $969
Iridium: $1495
Ruthenium: $255

So I can see why NGK, etc. would rather use the Ruthenium if it is just as good, and maybe better."

And it's definitely something NEW, and we all know how some spark plug shoppers like new stuff vs. the boring old manufacturer recommended plug.

I think that it may actually be possible to get the actual plug in and out with the cowl in place, but the ignition coils are the impossible part, so the cowl has to be removed for our cars.

One thing you may want to work on is getting the right spark plug socket figured out. These have a 14mm hex, which is smaller than most (16mm or 5/8" is the much more common standard). You will also probably really be happy to have a magnetic one, or at least one with a rubber insert to grab onto the plug. And the socket you use cannot be too thick otherwise it would not fit within the spark plug tube (I measured that to be 22.05 mm ID). When I had my cowl off recently to do the EGR cleaning, I took out one of the plugs to get this all figured out just so I'm ready when replacement day comes. 9/16" will work just as well as the 14mm for this application.

I found that I already have the general purpose tools to do this perfectly: a Craftsman USA deep well 14mm 3/8" drive hex socket, and a Husky 6" magnetic tipped 3/8" drive extension. Turns out the insertion of that magnetic tip (seen in the photo) fits just perfectly, reaching the tip of the spark plug and holding it securely. Special purpose magnetic spark plug sockets typically will instead have a ring that sits down near the bottom of the hex.

 

When using a rubber lined socket, especially a new and extra grippy one, it's a good idea to tape the joint between the socket and extension: they're prone to separate, especially after you've just installed a plug.

 

Here's something to try, it's been working for me... I found the end of coil pack will hold the weight of spark plug, and enable you to pickup and lower down spark plug freely..

14mm regular deep wall socket to loosen the spark plug and then use coil pack to pick it up and lowering the new spark plug.. Spin it down and then using 14mm deep wall socket to tighten and torque to spec...

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Tape is cheap insurance!

 

Using NGK ILKAR7B11, so far it's been great and better welding quality than Denso if you compare side by side. The fake ones are ILKAR7B-11 but if it doesn't have the dash, it's legit.

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THIS make the job a whole lot faster. Good luck!