Car won’t start, only check engine light on

Let me take a stab at this....

1) Measure the battery voltage at the 12V when you go to power up
2) Compare that to the video you posted, down to 10.xxV.
3) If BOTH readings go below 11.5V, the 12v is DOA, PERIOD.

HOWEVER.....

If the battery measures "good" at itself and "low" at the front jump location, you have what we call "voltage drop"; which is typically either a corroded wire, terminal or some looseness in a connection. I DOUBT THIS.

The fact you cannot get a reading from the scan tool, suggests a blown fuse(s) or low system voltage (many will not read if the system voltage is much below 12.2v).

That one last test, #1 above, will tell for SURE if the 12v is good or bad, but thus far I am leaning toward "bad".

 

Now I'm really confused. I'm in Columbia, SC. I assumed you were in Wilton, ME, as that is what your picture says. I just throew out a quick ad I found in the Maine CG. If you're in E TX (east Texas?) that's a bit of a drive from Maine.... Can you give us a zip code?

 

77656

Sorry, that hadnt been updated when I posted and I didn't realize it. Guys, I really appreciate all the help and advice! I have been up against a deadline to get my Prius out of the shop where I left it and needed transportation besides, SO, I cried for a while, gave up and traded my car in today. Unfortunately I couldn't afford another Prius, so I guess I'll be saying so long to my good friends here after 11 long years. I have TRULY loved this car!!! I'd recommend it to ANY one and this website to them as support. Thanks again. Bye!

 

au revoir! all the best

 

.

 

Did you end up parting the car out?

 

See post # 43.

 

glad you're fixed!
unfortunately, when we recommend testing the 12v first, there are a lot of scoffers

 

Hello All,
I saw this post started by AVS1 and was seeking some additional information regarding the relay repair.
I have the exact same symptoms mentioned in the OP however, I ended up changing the 12V battery first.
After replacing the battery, I now have no dash lights, check engine light, fuse 14/17 blown etc. the exact issues.
AVS1 mentioned relay repairs but didn't outline which relay(s) were replaced? Was the issue inside the car (by the left knee, driver side) or was it one of the relays under the hood?
I'm in the midst of doing some troubleshooting and was hoping you could give me some more insight in order to narrow down the problem.

 

UPDATE: Just an update for those having same issues and solution (for me).
Original symptoms: Car dead/not starting in the parking lot. Car attempted to be jumped to no avail and was towed home.
The 12V battery was dead and replaced with Toyota battery ($215) however, the car would still not turn-on/start only check engine light, no dash lights, green parking light on (all described by AVS1 in original post).
After doing some troubleshooting, fuses found in the engine box (ETCS-10A and DOME-15A ~ Free) were burned out. In addition, the "Fusible Link" DC/DC connection had also burned out.
Used the following guide to replace Fusible Link (p/n 82620-47050 ~$85)
How to change Fusible link under hood | PriusChat
The car starts and is derivable however, I now have RED TRIANGLE and another ((!)) notice on the dash. Hopefully something else wasn't messed up when jumped or towed!!!! Time to do some more research.
Word to the wise: DO NOT LET ANYONE JUMP START YOUR PRIUS UNLESS THEY REALLY KNOW WHAT THEY'RE DOING!!!

-Thanks to AVS1 for the personal replies and 3prongpaul for the great Fusible link replacement guide.

 

A good sign that the jumper cables were connected backwards. There are probably other blown fuses. Possibly inverter damage. You won't know till you find all the blown fuses.

I got a lithium jump pack that checks polarity. I will NOT let someone jump my Prius. Ever. I would do it myself, though, but everyone else better stand back. Nice thing about the jump pack is that I can also safely jump other cars.

So far, I've never needed a jump in a Prius, but it'll probably happen someday.

 

Sorry if im bringing back a zombie Post, but I'm curious,
My car is doing exactly the same thing this video has, and was wondering if this could be related to a rear end impact 30-40 mph, at a stop.. I got my car back from the body shop and it worked fine going home and then 1 day back and forth to work 30 mins each way then like a hour drive I stopped to pick up a computer from a friend with the back door open for about 15 mins talking then when i went to get in everything was completely dead,, After several times of trying to get it to come on I poped the hood and opened the cover plate to the fuse box and hooked up my little UPS 12v jump battery and still nothing I touched a few of the like inch by inch square "relay's" I guess and it crackled alive and all worked fine again to get home, I trickle charged the 12v Aux battery tinkering thinking pulling a few the main boxes in the fuse box checking for corrosion they were all extremely clean and shiny that I checked. Like 4 the easier ones to hand pull. Hooked everything up and it worked fine almost a whole day then was all dead again, after dinner. I' figured at 13 years and 300k miles the 12v aux battery might be issue ,, I went to pull the 12v aux battery was covered in water on the bracket and pulled it the shop tested said it was faulting, so replaced it but now I have the issues in the video above.. having read through several threads Im going to go up and check some the dash fuses and the "main fusible link" and for 12v on the front battery post, I just find it really odd how all this just occurred. Or could be related to the impact ? I've jumped this car on several occasions with no issue other than trying to get a clip on the tiny little front post POS access it is for normal cable just like I have always done. The insurance company willing to repair if shop can relay that it is related to the impact or issue of the repair , I wonder about the puddle water in the battery bracket brace could cause issues ??

 

“13 years and 300,000 miles the aux 12 volt battery may be the issue”

lol.....

get a voltmeter with car off what’s the voltage at the front jump point?
The front jump point is not hard to attach to there’s a vertical metal tang that’s bolted there so you can attach a jumper claw. Not hard to attach anything there.
Puddle of water in battery well is common there’s a rubber plug in the bottom of the well you can remove that there’s also water under the spare tire.
G2s have many leaks.
Either the new battery was stale and had a poor charge on it to begin with or was poorly installed and you have loose connections back there. A voltage test at the front jump point will show.
With car off turn on the headlights in high beam and while there on measure the voltage at the front jump point.
Should be at least 12.4

 

Ok so I made it up there to review everything today, I have 12.75 v at the new battery , at the front post it fluxes from 2.2v to 11.5v all over the place never stops changing. The AM2 fuse is good so is the linear fuse. which point the shop its at was like Good Luck suggest I take it to someone works on Prius's..

 

Ok so forgot to check for nest behind the glove box, so I went back to look it over some more, Seems was one ontop the cabin filter, but didnt see anything chewed up other than the filter, I did get a steady 12.8 v on the front terminal when i I used the one star bolt on top the engine, when I turn the car on there was clicking when it would hum it drop to 11.4v , go to 12.2v when not humming,, I ended up going threw all the fuses, replaced the ETCS and the Dome fuses, and took the cover off the liner fuse there was a hair line break in the DC/DC deployed the 8 penny solution I think (TMR-JWAP) had in another post.. Everything came back to life and now there power to everything and running again enough to bring it home there is a the Big Red Triangle though. I'm guessing now there is power can probably pull codes finally, figure out where this leads, next..

Real question is could being hit at stop by 30-40 mpg crack the dc/dc linear ? Just find it really weird the car only worked for about 3 hours driving time after getting the car back from repairs.. or this could be caused by something shifting in the HV pack and slow after effect..

 

The damage you are describing is synonymous with a cross-polarity jump start. Who could have done that, I wonder?

Perhaps the hairline crack on the fusible link held closed for just long enough to drive a bit.

 

Nice troubleshooting I liked that you monitored the 12 volt battery at the jump point during boot up that shows the total load the 12 volt see's at boot up and shows that battery is getting very tired. Its should have held closer to 12 volts than that 11.4 sag. A charger with a recondition mode could possibly make that better.
When the 12 gets really bad and dips to below 11 volts during boot you will see the RTOD flash when you boot the car . It just flashes momentarily and does not log a code its just a warning the 12 is ready to leave you stranded.
Its very noticeable on boot up as thats the only bulb/led that does not light on the dash during normal boot up.

So just keep that in mind the 12 is soft as you go forward chasing the rtod.

Also at night you can see how bad the 12 is getting if the headlights are close enough on an object to see them turn them on then start the car and watch how momentarily dim they get as the car boots. With that extra light load it may just throw the rtod momentarily.