My 2013 Prius has always had a weird problem where if I remote start the car (aftermarket Viper car alarm w/ remote start) and don't disable the remote start by either entering the car, or turning off the remote start, it will sound the car alarm and put the door locks in some weird mode where you can't unlock them with either the car remote or the alarm remote. At that point the only thing which works is the manual key that's hidden in the fob. Well the other day I did something stupid and must have left the light on in the car, the battery was dead. I jumped it and got it started, then initiated the remote start so I could leave it running and charge the battery while I was cleaning before company arrived. I ran it for about 45 min, came to the car and couldn't unlock the door (as usual in this case) so I pulled out the manual key and tried to unlock it.. but this time, it wouldn't unlock. The cylinder feels pretty tight and I can barely turn it. In fact, when I turned it clockwise, it almost looks like the trim covering the cylinder is bulging out ever so slighting as it creates a tiny gap between the trim and the door handle as I try and turn it. This happened after the crazy ice / snow storm we had, so I'm not sure if water got in it somehow and froze, or if there's another problem. I had no way to get in, but after playing around a few times with the remote start on my key fob as well as my phone app, I was finally able to control the doors to unlock them and get in. First time that ever worked for me. Curious if anyone has any ideas as to what could be preventing the cylinder from turning.
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that normal -- if the car is running, the remote lock/unlock does not work? Seems like a reasonable explanation. Water expands as it freezes and perhaps when it did, it messed things up (technical term).
Ice would be my first thought. Happens alot in winter. Door and window weatherstripping freezing shut, windshield wipers sticking in place. For the lock it helps to regularly shoot a bit of WD40 into the cylinder. (also put a bit on the fuel filler door hinges). Using silicone spray lubricant on the weatherstripping while it's dry can help prevent that from freezing as well. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Respectfully disagree. WD40 is commonly misunderstood. WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant and will, in fact, remove any type of lubricant that is in the cylinder. Use a lubricant that has a silicone, graphite or Teflon base only.
The WD stands for "Water Displacement" and 40 was the 40th formula they tried. Still, I've used it as a lubricant on squeaky door hinges and the like. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Gee, that almost sounds like something you'd find on the company's website, protecting its marketing share. Wait, it is: WD-40 Myths & Fun Facts | Facts About WD-40 Products | WD-40 This is one of those things where minds are not probably going to be changed. If you grew up with your dad telling you to use WD-40, then you're still gonna. I can respect that. But here are some independent views from the Internet (which, yes, is not always right). From LifeHacker: WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last. WD-40 can be a good substance to start with — it can help clean up rust or other grime. But depending on what you're working with, you should probably follow up WD-40 with use of a true lubricant such as one based on silicone, grease, Teflon, or graphite. Popular Mechanics did testing and found WD40 to be a poor lubricant: WD-40 Oil Alternatives - The Case Against WD-40 WD-40 is composed of many different chemicals, and only about 10-20% of these are lubricants. Even then this small amount is only a very light mineral lubricant. Most of the other components are intended to help penetration, but are volatile and are intended to evaporate. WD-40 does provide some longer term lubrication, but the problem is that the volatile components will dissolve and displace whatever lubricant already existed (e.g. grease), and then the majority of the WD-40 will evaporate. So really it should not be used on anything that requires proper lubrication (or at least, a proper lubricant should be added again some time after using WD)
