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12v battery at 10v

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by AlwaysDrivingFL, Oct 1, 2020.

  1. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    Yup, it was 11. I’m in a stupid brain fog phase and everything is rough.

    Morning now, as soon as the boyfriend wakes up it will go in - I can’t do it due another “electrical” (heart rate) issue being chased down. Lol, that cracked me up.

    I have been the only one doing the jumper cables so I can assure they were done correctly with a 99.9% rate. I’m paranoid about it.

    ugh, I really hope it just works this morning. I need to drive an hour today, if ir work I’d love to take the car - but I worry about getting stuck out of town on a tight schedule, which is assuming I won’t know if something is sucking it dead before I leave. I guess I’ll have the boyfriend try using it to take the kid to work while I’m gone.

    oh and if it runs I’ll drive over and have the codes read. At which point I should get home and magically find the reusable bag with the scanguage in it sitting on my desk chair.
     
  2. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    So this morning it is still a no start. Things “primed” in the engine compartment when I hit the button, but it still won’t start. It also was still only reading 11.8v instead of the almost 13 at the battery itself.

    Will figure out a tow to the dealer and go from there. Depending on what it is (and cost) I can have a mechanic I know fix it. He’s done the ABS thing twice in it (rebuilt part died after a week) and has the scanner for it. He’s just 45 minutes away.

    I won’t lie, I’m defeated. Big time.

    The only thing I can think of is something chewed a wire, or something got knocked loose. Either of those would explain the worked, parked, died crap going on. It’s parked on my dirt parking area so I can’t even crawl under it.

    Sign me....Crying while painting for a craft show and avoiding Mandalorian spoilers




    iPhone ?
     
  3. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    1. A voltage difference of 1.2v is too high if measured accurately. Same meter front and back?

    2. If above item is true, then there is a bad connection on the battery connections or their cable terminations. Negative on body near battery, positive at fuse box jump point.

    3. No Ready OR is it no engine start?

    4. Have you checked the fuses in the fuse box? One bad one is all it takes.

    I will bet it is something simple and will be easy to fix. Trying to fix even simple things can be a challenge when its remote. Sometimes further clarity would help our ideas. There is no doubt that a working knowledge of these circuits helps on both sides.
     

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    #23 rjparker, Nov 6, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2020
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  4. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    1-2. Hmm, he only put the charge we have on the battery to read it. He checked it against the AutoZone unit and it was the same the night he picked it up. I can check it front and back on Monday. I was using the Info-lights 3 times thing... maybe I should add a heal click?

    4. I'll go check the wires, and the fuses. Never thought to check them - the biggest thing for me is it was running fine and fantastic, then BAM, overnight the RTOD, no ready light, did NOT try jumping it for awhile - I was convinced it was BAD and was ignoring it. (like others it has been a heck of a year). I'm 51 for 3 more weeks and I think i've only had 3-4 fuses blow on me in cars.

    3. But now, no ready light at all - immediate RTOD.

    The good news is that I supposedly ordered a BT OBD2 scanner that works with iOS and it was probably delivered this morning. I'll have to run over there and pick it up and see what codes it is throwing. I know it isn't the Toyota one, but hopefully it will give some help. I thought for sure ordering it meant i'd find my ScanGauge from my TDI Beetle (I'm not a stranger to high maintenance cars!)... alas, nope - so still not new windshield wipers either.

    The man is out of town until Monday and i'm not sure I can put it back in alone. We left it out because there was no reason to drain it if there is something sucking it dead.

    Again, i truly appreciate all the input and ideas. Now, back to making some stuff to make some money!
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Measuring voltage with the charger is no good. The charger is adding voltage and old charger analog meters are not accurate enough. Especially for a diagnostic like this. But I would still check the connections and fuses.

    To do a good job you really need a digital voltmeter. I would think someone you know or even a neighbor would have one. However using it takes some fundamental knowledge of circuits, eg the difference between ac, dc and ohms as a starter. If you or your boyfriend are not handy in this way you need someone one is. Which may mean a mechanic or smart teenager.

    Codes will help but realize the car may have multiple codes caused by just pulling the battery so much. The thing to do is to put the battery in and leave it in. By the way there is a fourth voltmeter function that comes in handy, amps measurement to verify no excessive draw on the battery
    exists. That is stage two meter expertise but most who work on their own cars can learn to do it.

     
    #25 rjparker, Nov 7, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2020
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  6. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    So all the fuses are fine - including the two i dropped because the pliers are the auto open kind- Harbor Freight for a long claw grippy thing here I come. I own one - but who the heckle knows where the kids ran off with it too.

    I have a couple of meters for a variety of reasons - but I don't think they are digital. Honestly, electricity and circuits were the one thing that I never had a good grasp on. My Dad could help me - but he is homebound these days :( My ex would be help but who knows where he is these days (no, the kids don't even know).

    I can follow a good YouTube though - i'll watch some tonight - but I think i'm about one step from being over my pay grade. I don't trust myself at all - and the boyfriend isn't going to be of help without a step by step guide with pictures. lol Oh wait, maybe the mobile mechanic neighbor who has a tow truck. I was going to hit him up for the tow to the dealer. Sadly I think on this side of the lake that is my best bet.

    I totally love my Tomato and I think overall it has a lot left to give in it, either to me or one of my kids.

    Thank you again
     
  7. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    You can get a cheap digital voltmeter/multi-tester at Harbor Freight for a few bucks. You can get a cheap one for a few more bucks at some place like Home Depot or Target or Ace Hardware.

    Or, as said, find a friendly neighbor. Not that I would ever do it, but it is also amazingly easy for a woman to use the "stupid damsel" act to get most men to help...:whistle::whistle::whistle:

    To read the battery charge, it is all you need. They look scary, but to measure the 12v health it is dead simple. A member named Uart guided me through it on this forum years ago, but there are lots of YouTube vids that will also set you straight. If it comes down to it, I or a gazillion other PriusChat members could also provide "distance support."

    I just checked my voltage this morning. Took maybe 90 seconds, most of that fumbling to get the fuse box cover off in 22-degree weather (it read 25.1v). It was so cold, my hands were shaking so much, it was tough to get the probes in the right spot.

    Oh, O.K., it wasn't my voltage, but the 12-volt battery voltage. My own personal voltage was much higher as it took three cups of strong coffee to get me out into the cold at 7:30 this morning. Nowadays I am much more sensitive to cold than I used to be....
    Kris
     
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  8. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    HAHAHA, i suck at the damsel in distress thing - i'd rather go take an "introduction to circuits" class at the college than do that! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

    Hmmm, 22 degrees is not habitable - you should move to FL, it was 72 at 6:30am when I took the kid to work this morning, it was also light out, dysfunctional at Dunkin' Donuts (made her late), and old people were already on the golf courses!! I'm soooo not cut out for cold, but I hear we are having some sort of tropical "thing" tomorrow... yuck. Wait, was that today? I should go check, it would explain the clouds :ROFLMAO:

    I'll do the battery stuff tomorrow when the Man gets back, meanwhile i'm going to enjoy the quiet and go pretend i like painting for craft show prep (i'm more of a spray paint kind person). Mama needs to make money to fix the Tomato!
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    If you get a friend to help, check the codes, write them down, clear the codes, try to Ready the car, check and write down the codes again. Try to Ready several times anytime after a battery connect.

    Then have the friend check voltages using the two diagrams in post #23 as a guide. They also need to ensure the fuses and fusible links are good. I don't recommend the cheapest Harbor Freight meter for this kind of diagnostic work, it sometimes reads high. The meter in post #25 with the alligator clips is decent or get something similar.

    In the end, a mechanic may be needed. I recently helped a guy who blew his fusible link (visibly blown in his pics) and he replaced it. It is a slightly advanced job as it is wired in. The car still did not go to Ready so he took it to a dealer. The fusible link replacement was good but he had one more plugin 50 cent fuse replaced that finished the job. No guarantees in your case, but if it was running before the battery discharge and you have a new battery now, it sounds like some intervening error may have occurred.
     
    #29 rjparker, Nov 8, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2020
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  10. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    So this darn car is still sitting there. It started ONCE, and it was running rough. But it is throwing the hybrid battery code, and I can't get that to clear to start it. The one time it started the 12v battery showed 14v, but while trying to start it it was showing the 10.~v.

    The horn/alarm is randomly going off, it stops if we leave the key in the slot. I bought a new battery for the fob, i wonder where that went?

    So to the dealer it will go when I can get it there, right now there is no money to do anything. The significant other had a heart attack a couple of weeks ago - he's doing better and off trying to make some money... which isn't working so well right now. Stupid COVID. I'm driving his Outlook without AC & heat, with a slipping transmission. Ugh. 2020 can suck it.

    Anyway, again, I appreciate all the help you have no idea how much it meant. I love my Tomato even if my insurance is going up $240/yr. Sigh....
     
  11. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    Ohhh, and I found the really cheap analog volt meters in the science kit!
     
  12. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    Soooo.... that didn't go as expected.

    For kicks, i went out to try to start it, hey look - it started. Again a bit rough, but it has been sitting.... then all of a sudden - pop, thought something fell in the back. Nope a few more and smoke coming from the hybrid battery compartment. had turned it off, kid ran into the house for the fire extinguisher next to the laser cutter. Then back in for tools to try to get the carpet up.

    OK then.

    So it is sitting out there, no heat at all on the battery compartment - I hope that means it isn't smoldering. Just in case I moved the Outlook away from it.

    And so it sits again waiting for a tow truck, which is waiting for $$$$$. :(

    Poor Tomato.
     
  13. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Glad everyone is ok, and that you were able to save the extinguisher for some other emergency that hopefully doesn't arise.
    Most dealers charge quite a bit for a vehicle diagnostics, one of my local dealers doesn't charge at all, try shopping around. Or pick up a "mini-vci" cable ($20) and a copy of techstream (same software the dealership tech will use) and never have to pay a penny again.
    Thought the neighbor was the go to tow person?[/QUOTE]

    Now that the HV battery pack has failed, you can work through the replacement options that are available, or possibly a DIY fix.
     
  14. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    So it was running and smoke was coming from the big hybrid battery behind the rear seat, not the 12v battery in the back rear?
     
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  15. PriusWave

    PriusWave New Member

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    To charge quicker put the fan speed full blast and put the AC on LOW. That keeps the engine running more often.
     
  16. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    Yup, the seat was down so we could see it coming from the drivers side, around the wires for the hybrid battery. It ran until I turned it off. Here I was thinking - woohoo, drive the tomato, and BAM, it was “where is the fire extinguisher????”

    The RTOD was still showing on the dash too, I never got the app connected to the ODB plug to see the codes. I’m thinking I should be able to do that without my foot on the brake? I honestly wasn’t prepared for it to start, I was just out there to grab the key and change the battery. (Of course I guessed the wrong size and still can’t cross that off the list)

    And yes the neighbor will be the tow, but I’ll pay him (he will be cheaper than anyone else I call), but the dealer (or shop) will need to be paid and I’ve got $65 total right now. So it will sit until I can sell some stuff/ornaments. I’m ASSuming the hybrid battery has an issue, and/or the parts leading to it. I need the car, and I’m sure I’ve put enough money to fix it into the gas tank if this Outlook.

    [Let’s all remember that it ran fine, battery charge full to green the day I parked it and it didn’t start the next morning with the RTOD and a potential hybrid battery code. Maybe an animal got to it??]

    Is anyone reading in the Orlando area? Anyone you’d suggest instead of the dealer?


    iPhone ?
     
  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Wow. We starting talking about a low 12v battery back on Oct 1 and now it is a hybrid battery and or a serious cable short that has smoked!

    It seems obvious in retrospect that the wreck in the driver's rear panel damaged more than the sheet metal. At this point, I would find a good independent shop with hybrid experience to give you an estimate.

    It may involve replacing the harness and or the hv battery with used parts to even make a repair feasible. Find out what is wrong before doing anything, but you may end up picking another tomato. A standard Corolla or Camry in your price range might be my choice.
     
    #37 rjparker, Dec 7, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
  18. AlwaysDrivingFL

    AlwaysDrivingFL Junior Member

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    Sigh... I was hoping you’d say “hey, some animal carried something up there and it’s probably that”. Lol.

    I’m going to have to try to find an independent shop to work with, I suppose there isn’t a “trusted mechanic” post like there is on the TDI forums?

    I’ve got to have a vehicle with 35+mpg, I’ve tried to go lower and my fuel costs were the biggest budget item I had. I can’t deal with that stress again. I also need blind spot monitoring if I’m buying again due to the rear end accident. This all adds up to more than the budget can afford right now, of course the Outlook transmission is slipping more today too. Of course.

    Off to google. (And probably cry)
     
  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Won't have any effect on how quickly the 12 volt battery charges though. Charging voltage in a Prius is independent of what the engine is doing.
     
  20. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Give Todd a call at Home - Tampa Hybrids Inc.

    Might be an hour away, or he could recommend someone closer to you or the vehicle, maybe even a mobile mechanic? (save the tow)
    Excellent idea :whistle:
     
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