None of them looked bent to me. Maybe there was water in the cylinder and the "nice person"umed it had a bent rod? Lot's of carbon build up but nothing that can't be cleaned up.
The Lexus dealer said it had low compression and a bent rod. We replaced the engine with one from LQK. It came with a 30k 1 year warranty. I bought the old engine from the dealer for $45 because I thought a bent rod seemed less plausible and wanted to do a teardown (and for spare parts if needed). I agree dogman, I certainly don’t see a bent rod either and yeah pretty obvious that the hg failure went into cylinder 1. iPhone ?
Yeah I found out quickly what Mendel posted. Below the green line is the oil pump stuff which covers the crankshaft when looking from below. I didn’t get that part split to view the rods to take a pic. I was honestly surprised how many splits this engine has. iPhone ?
Nothing in there show taking the engine apart. It says refer to manual, but clicking on the model year does nothing. I knew there were some things to do to get the pan off. Like getting the clutch assembly out of the way to get to bolts??? I'd like to see the procedure to see what's involved. Toyota say "remove engine" as though it's as easy as removing the oil filler cap!!!
So did you repair the head and reinstall it? And now you have a spare engine? I hope you degreased the block!
I actually did not rebuild this engine. I broke it down and packaged up all the parts. My original plan was to rebuild it, but I am a little hesitant to do all the work, drop it in and pray it works since it can’t be tested outside the car. Figured if anything, the new engine will need just a HG (trying to prevent with periodic EGR cleanings) and I can do that easily enough. iPhone ?
again i appreciate your input! If I was to swap the rod I wonder If there wouldnt be any other unknown problems? Bore, condition of any other bearing, still be sucking up oil. Would It be realistic or possible to swap out all the bearing/change piston rings/etc while changing the rod? Would I be able to just replace the rings without doing anything else?
If you measure the piston height from the block deck you’ll probably find that it’s short. All it takes is a small amount of rod deflection to cause problems. I would use a vernier caliper for this check.
I would imagine the bearings are in good shape, but you could replace them. But by doing all you are doing, you could buy a remanufactured block. Replacing the bent rod, and new rings would be okay. But I don't think the rings are the biggest oil burning problem. It's the valve guide seals. You could remove them from each piston and soak them in a cleaner. IF, they are sticking. You could also get the latest version of the piston and rings. Not sure of the cost of those. I read the Toyota paper Mendel put up. It said you had to heat up the piston to remove the piston pin. Looks like they have a special pan that you lay it in. I don't know if they use water or oil. So I guess it's a tight fit!
was kinda thinking replace the rod and rings, head gasket, valve guide seals, head checked. Wonder if in that case it would be better to just pull the engine out?
Check the piston and rings from the one you pull. Are the rings sticking? If they move freely, you are probably okay. Check the piston under the rings. Do you see streaking from oil blowing past the rings? If not, they rings are doing there job. You can use the piston from the bent rod, and put it on the new one. I believe the 2010 rings are different than the 2015 rings. I think the 2015 are thicker and won't fit the 2010 pistons. Certainly can't hurt to replace the rings. You might also want to do a light honing of the cylinders if you replace the rings, and check for a rid at the top of the cylinder. You might have to pull the engine to get the oil pan off. I haven' t found the procedure for that so I don't know. I'm sure someone has and hopefully will comment of it.
I fully agree. I have just put 3700 miles on my used 45,000 mile JDM Prius 1.8 liter engine and my oil level is still on the full mark and is still nice and clean. Despite running Amsoil I will now change the oil every 5000 miles instead of 10,000 miles. MY head gasket blew at 254,000 and hydro-locked the engine with the rod blowing a hole through the engine. Right before hydro-locking the heater core started to blow cold air then it ran rough and while I was pulling over the rod blew. I put in an oil catch can too which you need to do if your going to keep your Prius for a while since they tend to burn oil once the rings get carboned up. The catch can will stop tons of oil from being ingested through the intake manifold.
I need to remove connecting rod for cylinder #1 on my 2012 prius. But taking a look at what's inside with oil pan off, there is no access to any connecting rods. It looks like by removing oil pump, hole it produces *MIGHT* enable access to only connecting rod for piston #1. Is there anyone who successfully removed connecting rod this way from 3rd gen prius engine?
It's been explained to me, and I watch a video of someone removing the pistons, that you have to take the oil pan off, and it's 2 parts I believe. To do so, you have to remove the engine. Which I take it you already have? And you've only pulled the lower part off, which doesn't give you access to the connecting rods. I belive it was Mendel that sent a link to a page that showed that, and the article said to remove the engine.
