2006 Prius error code C1343 read with Techstream

Anything else you can share leading up to, during or after this code retrieval process?

Recent brake job, hit a curb, funny noises, vibrating brakes, liquids underneath, etc

 

any drivability issues? dash lights?

 

I'm curious how the OP resolved this issue... I'm having the same exact problem!

 

They probably went to a mechanic and had it fixed.

When you say the exact same problem, what do you mean? You have a C1343 code? With what did you read that code? There are 5 sub (INF or detail) codes associated with that DTC. If you can retrieve the detail code it would narrow down the trouble area.

Full work up for DTCs C1341/62, C1342/63, C1343/64 and C1344/65

If you manage to fix it, let us know what you did.

Hope that helps.

 

I just wanted to add to the convo since this forum has been an amazing resource for me. I had this Code come up in tech stream and at the time I had a couple of different issues going on so it was confusing. I fixed one issue at time. First off it was a bad Hybrid battery, then inverter had air in the system and was a little low.

And then Code C1343 RR kept popping up. So I went to the brake cylinder and it was leaking. So I figured that must be it.... I did a brake job why I was at it and fixed cylinder at the same time. Got all the air out, but after a week or so it came back. I aired the system out again, adjusted my drum brakes and that got rid of it for a couple of days. then Back again.

After reading a little more about the code it says it could also be the ABS actuator or vibration. Got me thinking cause my parking brake felt a little low after I adjusted it in the back every time. And I thought before I go putting a ABS actuator I would adjust the parking brake from the pedal under the steering wheel area. And presto! The issue is now gone after a reset of the DTC's

I'm not saying this will solve everyones issue but it may help someone out there who like me was being silly and forgot to adjust their parking brake too. When I first started out as a mechanic I was always told to start with the basics first and work your way up to solve the problem!

 

That's an interesting tale. I'm at a loss to think up any causal connection between the parking brake pedal adjustment and hydraulic pressure regulation, though, so there are still questions in my mind. It's very rare for that pedal and cable to need any adjustment (the adjusting mechanisms inside the drums should be taking care of the normal wear), so it could be a red herring for other readers.

 

I'm having the C1343 and the dealership wants me to replace the actuator. I'm hoping that its something else still... my parking brake is a bit weird... How did you adjust the parking brake?

 

so to update to this story to hopefully help someone. You were right to still have questions. But I do have answers to why my remedy worked and eventually failed.

The short of it was that the code could be set off by vibration as it says in the manual. Meaning warped drum or mis adjusted drum brakes. Well after the brake job and cylinder change adjusting the parking brake took up a Mis adjustment that I didn’t realize was hiding from me till recently.

I feel pretty embarrassed by this, but happy I found the real cause. I had adjusted the drum directly from the back of the wheel in the past and it seemed like it was holding when I did it in the past. But when I checked recently inside of the drum. The adjustment mechanism of the RR drum brake had adjusted all the way back in and the metal tab that’s supposed hold it was bent just enough that it was letting it slip over time. And causing this intermittent issue to keep giving this code.I would assume because it was allowing too much play in the now worn out drum brake shoes causing the cylinder to allow more brake fluid to flow on that wheel and I would imagine the play would have caused a decent vibration as well. Considering the other side was nice and snug like it should be the computer was getting a very different reading for brake fluid pressure in the RR wheel in my case.

I can report that I no longer have the code and brakes feel better then ever!

So you were right to ask more questions and I should had not settled on my earlier solution as the answer. Even though it did work for some time it was just a bandaid. Their was a true underlying cause.... my sloppy work when replacing the new cylinder for the drum! Haha!

Hope this helps someone out there that got ahead of themselves or if you had a rear brake job done and a mechanic possibly did the same thing as I did.

 

I found a similar issue, made a video about the repair process.

 

Regarding the above video issue(s), with an additional detail of the tab.

 

Old-time PriusChat member hobbit also did a detailed write-up of how the rear adjusters work, with lots of pictures.

Self-adjusters

He also explains why, out of two kinds of drum brake adjuster—"reverse travel" and "parking brake" adjusters—ours are the second kind. No need to go braking in reverse or any games like that. The adjuster is cocked by using the parking brake, and triggered by using the regular brake, so as long as you regularly do both things in using the car (and the adjusters were assembled right!), they do their job.

 

I finally disassembled my new to me used 2006 passenger side (RR) drum brakes.

Prior to disassembly, I found the same RR C1343 code as well as a very loose emergency brake pedal.

Same situation after popping open both sides rubber plug to see how the adjustment lever was situated, RR adjustment lever wasn't in contact with the star nut-bolt part of the strut.

After watching a few more videos, I think the video below at the time shown, demonstrates the best correct assembly where that adjustment lever needs to be inside the fork of the strut.

Seems everywhere else noted bending the lever or assembled wrong without as much detail as shown below.

Interestingly, the most stuck RR drum gen 2 in the salvage yard where I got my replacement strut was also installed incorrectly. However, that strut was opened way far for some reason and made for a really tight removal and guessing a loud drive after installed. Especially after that inside ridge formed on the drum making the removal even more challenging.

My strut part was either cranked closed or vibrated stuck to the point jammed and I marred more than I wanted to using vice grips to brake fee. Figured since I had to grind a little to fit back together, I better get another one just to be safe.

 

The "applying the brakes while backing up" design is mostly limited to "old" American vehicles. The Bendix single anchor self-energizing drum brake (and its variants- GM) uses movement of the secondary (rear) shoe away from the anchor to move the adjusting lever. You only get that in reverse & brakes on.

Both designs can work IF the brakes are properly maintained. Anytime things get worn, rusty, or are improperly installed- fuggettaboutit.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

@Swamibob, @ChapmanF, @Mario SM, @mr_guy_mann, @obiejon12, @dolj , @mr-electric, et.al.,

Did you notice your battery level, if was never in the green prior, go into the green all the sudden after resolving the C1343 or any related ABS braking event?

Oddly, since purchasing the 2006 with the C1343 571 code as well as the O2 sensor related due to custom exhaust codes and TPMS codes, I've never seen my battery level be above the light blue color level where offhand I think was only two bars above half at most.

After completing the prior post strut replacement and installation successfully and clearing the C1343 code only, I found on my test drive the battery level went almost full charge (minus one bar) and the bars changed to a green color. That was a surprise and the car has been sitting a few days never started.

I test drove in neutral most the time so to better test the brakes and possibly adjust automatically more often was my thought. Though I did hear the adjuster click for certain one time before I left to test drive being I had the passenger rear door open trying to listen for when I depressed the brake pedal in park and in the driveway going forward and reverse a few times.

 

It may depend on individual codes, but often, if the brake ECU is reporting a problem, it will either discontinue coordinating with the HV control ECU for doing regen braking, and just do all braking with the brakes, or go all the way to failsafe mode, which also uses no regen, and just your foot power working some of the brakes.

So if clearing some brake code puts the ECU back in a mood for doing regen, that could lead to you seeing higher charge levels at times.

 

Reminds me that until a few days back when I learned the reason why the car, reported when purchasing and after driving back, didn't go into Cruise Control was due to being set in the "B" or "Braking" or "Brake" mode. I haven't driven since until today and only started that day to let run and check to see if that resolved the Cruise Control issue, which shifting into "B" did successfully.

 

Yeah, my Gen 1 allowed cruise to be used in B mode, and I did sometimes, and it irked me when I noticed my Gen 3 will cancel cruise any time B is selected.

But then I noticed the Gen 3 cruise will, in fact, control speed on downgrades, using regen and/or engine braking to do it, all in D mode, so I can still accomplish what it took cruise-in-B to accomplish in Gen 1.