ABS, slip, brake system warning lights

Your car is upside down is the first issue.

But I'm all seriousness, have you checked to ensure the connectors are tight and haven't wiggles loose.

I'd check over your recent work and make sure there is nothing lingering from that.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Back when you followed the wheel bearing replacement procedure, did you include the step where you run the wheel-speed sensor test?

 

pk123, As others have suggested I would recheck the connectors for the speed sensors on each rear wheel hub to make sure something did not come loose. It seems very possible that that a connector for the rear ABS sensors came loose as you went over the bumps.
If the warning lights are still on after disconnecting the battery you may need a proper scanner that can access the ABS system or the Toyota techstream software to scan the ABS system and check for codes.

pk123 said "The one exception is that when going over potholes/bumps and braking simultaneously, on a couple of occasions I felt the brakes lose their bite for a split second before catching again." I will say that in my time with my Gen3 and Gen4 that the braking system is very sensitive to railroad tracks, potholes and uneven pavement surfaces when braking. I consistently feel the regen braking cut off when braking over these road surfaces, especially when wet.

 

This seems like a good place to mention again that if one is following the repair manual steps for replacing a wheel bearing, they end with a test of the speed sensor. An actual test, where the ECU is put into an extra-sensitive test mode and the car is driven in a test pattern, and even small problems with the sensor will be caught, before the job is signed off.

Wheel bearing replacements following that procedure generally don't lead to surprises.

 

This is the 3rd place for this same problem.
TRQ USED to be good. Not anymore. I've bought them for several of my cars and others cars.
I put over 100,000 miles on those.
My fronts lasted about 35,000 miles. The right rear bearing seemed okay, just the sensor was bad.
WHY they made such a stupid design is just insane. They should be as easy at the front sensors.
I only had 9000 miles on the rear. They are supposed to send both bearings for replacement.
It's just a PAIN to change them, AGAIN! I had to put the old one back in until the new one comes.

I will probaly just make a trip to autozone and get a (hopefully) better one. At least I won't have to wait
a week for the new one when/if one goes bad.

PK123: for $50 or so you could have purchase an OBD reader w/ABS testing. My code was C0210.
And it came right after I drop of the old bearings to ship back.
They had sent the rears first, then the front. I was just going to keep them, but that would have been steeling.
Now I wished I had waited a week or so!

It's a simple pulse on/off sensor. What test/calibration would it need with a new sensor? NO COMPLAINING!

 

For some reason, Toyota thought it would be useful to build a confirmation test mode into the ECU, and to write paragraphs in the repair manual instructing people to use it after changing a wheel bearing. I wasn't in the room where it happened. But I do it after changing bearings. It's not anything hard to do. (It does require access to some straight section of empty street or the like where you can accelerate to around 30 in a straight line without endangering anybody.)

 

Well then, I've already done that on 98% of the ones I've done!

 

Provided it was in the confirmation-test mode when you did that, then you have indeed completed the bearing-replacement steps.

I described it briefly for Gen 1 back in the last paragraph of this post. The details can vary a bit between generations, but they're right there in the manual. If you're replacing a bearing and just following the numbered steps, then by the time you come to the end you will have done it.

 

Ditto!
I got 30,000 out of the fronts. About 5 on the replacement ones, and the one
on the left(front) is noisy, and is hotter than the one on the right.
They send replacements, but return postage is on me. Took over a week to get here.
PLUSSSS, I don't want to have to replace them every 6 months!
TRQ USED to be decent. But since they're made in china now, they suck!
I'll go to autozone and get the timken ones. They lasted about 100,000 miles on my van.

Trashed Really Quick!