This is my second time replacing the inverter water pump in less than a year!Searching for answers on internet, I found this article and I would like to know if any have knowledge about this. Or what you can say about. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.torquenews.com/8113/why-2004-2009-toyota-prius-sets-p0a93-trouble-code/amp Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Yes, many (including myself) have and in fact, it is recommended to use that OEM pump. Many reports of early failure of after-market parts. It is still your choice though.
Sorry, I understood that this part number was the new redesigned to fix the failure. I was so hopeful about I found the solution for my blowing pump. There's any better, than that? Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Where are you getting y our pumps? The Toyota OEM pump should have the redesign and not fail on you that fast. As said above, the aftermarket ones and known to not last as long. TomK
Counterfeit auto parts are a HUGE problem and then add in low quality aftermarket knock-off's and the consumer has a really good chance of purchasing poor parts. Best workaround: buy from authorized and known vendors. Online parts sites typically show when a part number is replaced with a new (and hopefully improved) item. GOOD LUCK!
I couldn't agree more, I got suckered with a counterfeit Toyota part. An individual on eBay has been kind enough to post a warning. It seems he copied some info from this thread Counterfeit vs Real OEM Toyota Prius Inverter Pump 04000-32528 | PriusChat For me it only took 20 minutes to replace mine, but that 20 minutes was worth more than the $120 cost of a real pump from one of the dealers selling online.
The main n reasons are bogus cheap pump and sometimes it’s because the fluid it has to pump was never changed. Old inverter fluid is pretty abrasive stuff. It has to be pumped through a very large section of pure aluminum. Very hard on the pump seal, When my oem pump was changed by recall at 80000 miles it was working fine as I had changed the fluid at 10000 miles and got all the break in crap out of it. It was very contaminated at 10000 miles. When the dealer replaced the pump under recall they just duckbilled clamped the 2 hoses and slide in the pump. Top it off no air lock done.but you have really worn fluid in there. Changed the fluid again at 125000 miles and I expect to never have to replace that pump again. If the pump is healthy and the fluid is newer and the system as a whole is working good you will see a lot of agitation of the fluid when you look inside it’s reservoir in READY which means the pump is pumping really hard and the system is free of air. The pump should quiet too. You can tell how well the system is working by how the fluid looks with the car in ready, Should be checked periodically just like the ice coolant level in the rad. Have to take off the top plastic rad cover to get to the rad cap don’t bother using the overflow as a gauge.
Well the fluid was still clean, I had replaced the fluid when I replaced the pump. I have a vacuum/fill that I use to refill with so it just easier to drain the old (newish) fluid and put new in, goes in quick with no air in the system. I have seen in others a build-up inside the inverter. In this case I like to test the pump capacity before and after install. In this case, I was getting around 6 GPM of flow which is pretty decent. If I can trust my memory the OEM did 7 GPM and the last knock-off was around 5 GPM.
