I own my 2006 Prius since new, currently at 146k miles. This sunny 75 degrees afternoon the car started but the combination meter remained blank. Then, when I put reverse, the camera did not show on center screen which was still working. After turning on and off the car 4-5 times the combination meter came back including camera image on center display. Techstream did not show any codes. 12v battery is 6 years old and shows 12.1 v with “ignition on” but headlights, radio and AC fan off. Should I order a rebuilt Combination meter online and try to install it? Or the 12v battery on its way out is creating this issue?
12.1 with ready doesn't make sense, it should be charging, around 14 volts. if that's the case, maybe the battery isn't taking or getting a charge.
You are right. I wanted to say 12.1 v with ignition on but without any other electrical loads. With ready on was 14.4v. I corrected my first post.
hard to say. 12.1 may be fine. watch it for a few days and see if it happens again. if you're keeping the car, you'll need a new 12v sooner or later, depends on your philosophy, but it may or may not be the problem. you can get a free load test at most auto parts stores
Do you mean the combination meter, which is the speedometer cluster, or the MFD, which shows your backup camera and fuel economy? The symptoms are not clear but sound like you're describing the MFD. If so, many people have reported their MFDs dying right about now, and I had mine die 2 weeks ago. You can buy one on eBay or from a junkyard.
It is the combination meter (or instrument cluster or speedometer or head up display) that went blank. The MFD is working fine but when the combination meter went blank the reverse camera was not switching on the MFD.
That sounds about right. The reverse signal to the MDF comes from the CM. It does sound like it is the early symptoms of a dying combination meter (CM). You can monitor it for a while and disconnecting the 12 V battery can bring it back on for a time. Getting a new 12 V battery will likely make the CM fail to start more frequently until it finally starts no more. If you are handy with a soldering iron and can do board level repairs, you can fix the CM yourself, or else you can contact Matt @Texas Hybrid Batteries who can sort you out with a repaired board on an exchange basis.
is their a pick up or sensor for imoblizer in the dash or speedo head somewhere?? gotta red imobilizer light steady no dash lights after dash swap..
Are you sure that you plugged in everything when you reassembled the dash? Specifically the power button, the park button, (or the key slot- if you disturbed that). More than once I have had to go back into something because I overlooked a little connector somewhere. Also, is your car equipped with SKS and have you cycled the SKS button under the dash? Have you tried the fob in the key slot? Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
this is a base but ive buttons to disable start button and reset tpms left of obd plug.. i did not unplug master switch etc ive had lower fascia off for sometime now master just hangs .. or is stuk in vent hole they all broke upon touching them
Since October 2020, the combination meter went dark 2-3 times but maybe it is time to replace it. The last time I had trouble turning the car off. I did hold the push button for a few seconds and it finally turned off. What other options I have to turn off the car when the dash lights are out? I read that when the dash is dark, sometimes the trunk does not open and I can not disconnect the 12v battery. I was thinking in an emergency without tools just to disconnect the white connectors at the positive post to turn off the car but if the trunk doesn’t not open it is becoming complicated to open it from inside. Especially if my son is driving it. Can I remove the AM2 fuse to turn off the car in an emergency situation when the dash lights are out and the push button does not respond?
What's wrong with using the power button, understanding that it works by being held down for 5-7 seconds? I find it pays to count out 1-1 thousand; 2-1 thousand; 3-1 thousand; 4-1 thousand; 5-1 thousand; etc which seems a lot longer when you do this. If you want a 'Plan B', tie a piece of string to the manual release lever which is long enough to reach and drape over the driver's side rear seat so you can release the rear door without too much drama.
That's a lot of kicking the can down the road. I'd just replace that bad capacitor in the CM and be done with it.
